Leather care has been a topic in the past, but I'd be curious too.
I will say if you use your truck, have a dog, or both you might consider seat covers. I have a fitted set from SeatSaver and they are nice. I wish I kept them on all the time... it never fails when they are off I damage the seats. Also, if you do have a dog - don't slam on the brakes with it sitting in the middle of the back seat. The only scratch I have on my console lid is from a family members #$%# dog's toenail - got wings and flew in to the front seat.
__________________ Steve 2011 F350 CCLB KR 6.7 - FX4, Bronze Metallic/Pueblo Gold, factory KR 20"s, Adobe interior, nav, no moon roof&chrome pkg, Rancho RS9000XL Shocks w/MyRide Previous trucks: 2001 GMC 2500 6.0, 2010 F250 CC SB PSD 4x4 Lariat 3.55, 2003 Chev 1500 Z71 5.3L, 2005 F350 CCLB DRW 6.0 - work truck, 1998 Chev S10
"To truly solve a problem you must first understand the problem"
I'm pretty bad about caring for my leather like I should. I am also interested in a good procedure for keeping leather look good. Of course, you have that really squisshy, living room recliner type leather, don't cha?
2011 F-350 6.7 PSD 3:73 FX4 DRW CC Lariat Ultimate
Dark Blue Pearl Metallic, DVD Headrests, Luverne mud flaps, Access Tonneau Cover, EZ Down T/G damper,
2011 Raptor 361LEV Toyhauler 18K, Honda 1800 VTX-C, 2 Arctic Cat 700 TRV's
In the older KR's, the leather was untreated, therefore not sealed. These seats required treatment to keep the leather from drying out. Lexol worked very well for mine.
The new KR's are now using treated leather (vinyl impregnated) so treatment is not near as necessary, as the leather is nearly impervious.
ArmorAll will work as well as anything. Dressing is merely cosmetic.
Thanks for all the input. I would like to post pictures of my truck, but I'm not entirely sure how. I read postings on one thread that said you needed to comment/post a certain amount before you were able to.
I have found the best product hands down for all your interior surfaces is ULTIMA INTERIOR GUARD . It is available at auto geek and is great stuff. Never any greezy stuff left behind, easy to apply and lasts a long time. Its not all that cheep but goessssss a long way...
There exterior products are great as well, easy application long lasting.
How to clean leather
1. Surface dirt and dust - Use a clean, damp cloth or soft brush to remove.
2. Spills - First use a dry cloth to absorb liquids. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Allow drying and then apply King Ranch Leather Conditioner as directed in the Conditioning section. To reduce the likelihood of staining, clean spills as quickly as possible.
3. Stains - On a clean, dry or soft brush use a mild soap and water mixture. Be sure to first test any stain remover on an inconspicuous part of the leather as cleaners may darken the leather. Certain stains may not be removable even after treatment with cleaners or conditioners. Items such as coffee, ketchup, mustard, orange juice and oil-based products are especially difficult to remove. If your leather stains, it will stay in the leather for life.
If you have problems with your vehicle, please call Ford customer service at 1-800-392-3673.
I agree with using the king ranch saddle shop conditioner. Alot of dealers carry it if not you can buy it off the website. It's made specifically for that leather. I've seen it do wonders on older KRs where the seats are almost white they're so dry. A bottle of that and they're golden brown Again.
The thing with leather is you need a cleaner that is neutral in ph and a conditioner that, well, if it's good for your hands, its good for the leather. There are a lot of "Yuppie' marketed products on the market- both hi & low end, but this is what I have used for 30+ years.....
I clean my leathers (& Vinyls/Leatherett's) about every 2 weeks and condition, if you live in desert climate, then condition at the start & end of summer, other wise annually is fine with this particular product (it comes from england). One of the biggest issues to be aware of when using any conditioner it avoid getting it on the threads!!!!! Because the conditioner is like lanoline, once it is applied to the threads it is almost impossible to wipe it away completely & the residue (although you can't see it or feel it) is a magnet for dirt particals, which over time acts like sand and destroys the threads.
I typically apply the conditioner during the day, let it sit overnight and the next morining wipe everything down so there is no residue anywhere- the most important step in caring for leather.
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Certified backyard mechanic I & II
FYI... KR Saddle Shop Leather Conditioner is rebranded Duragloss (Brothers Research Corporation) Leather Conditioner. It is available in 8 oz. (#221) and 32 oz. (#222) sizes and usually can be found cheaper and more widely available under the Duragloss brand name...
'04 F-250 Harley-Davidson 6.0L CC SB - SOLD
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