Update on Project: Six Shooter :)

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  #46  
Old 02-16-2012, 09:51 AM
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Okay fellas so my pistons have been ordered the block is waiting to get bored and my head is about to get assembled! And my intake manifold as you may know is DP style now on the bottom of it there is a hole for the heat source if I don't cover will it affect anything?
 
  #47  
Old 02-16-2012, 10:05 AM
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Glad to hear things are coming along!

And no, if that opening on the underside of your intake is left open, it won't affect anything.
 
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:20 PM
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Thanks AB!!! Cant wait to get things moving!
 
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:41 PM
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Well, yes it will. Without utilizing the provision for heating the intake you most likely will end up with drive-ability problems that cannot be tuned out with the carburetor. Best get a plate fabricated with hose barbs now and mount it on the intake before you install the intake otherwise it will be a PITA to do so after the intake is installed. AB and F-250 restorer have pics of the plate posted in several threads.
 
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:46 PM
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I completely agree, and would definitely recommend some type of heat. However, not having something there, and not covering it, won't cause any other adverse issues, such as intake/exhaust leaks, and the like. It'll just be an unused cavity. At least, I think that's where the question was oriented.
 
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:36 PM
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Correct. There will be no problems in addition to what the unheated manifold would cause.
 
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:51 PM
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Well I have a heated spacer that was where my heat source was gonna be at, I was just wondering like AB said if there were gonna be any type of leaks.
 
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:40 PM
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Thumbs up SHES IN







my buddy mikey from work did a awesome on cutting the alt. bracket and as you could see i have the 3g alternator waiting to get hooked up

 
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:11 AM
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I'm curious why you 'cut' the alt bracket?

Also, before you hook up the alt, you should 'clock it.' It will take 2 minutes to do it. All it is is loosening the 3 long bolts in the back of the alt that hold the shell together, and turning the back clockwise until the bolt holes line up again, then tighten them back up. That way the wires exit from the bottom and not the top, and look more professional.
 
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:29 AM
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I cut the alt bracket because before I had the factory air pump and since it wasn't going to be used anymore I chose to cut it and it gives I cleaner look. I also believe I think the headers were going to rub on the old piece that was there. Thanks for the trick advise when I get it running I'm going to shoot a video of it.
 
  #56  
Old 04-19-2012, 09:09 AM
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I have yet to do that to my alternator bracket. I agree that it looks much cleaner when done. Nice work.



The engine looks great in there! When do you fire it up?
I'm sure you've taken every precaution. Double checked all the fluids. Primed the oil pump. Etc. etc.
Exciting stuff.
 
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
I have yet to do that to my alternator bracket. I agree that it looks much cleaner when done. Nice work.



The engine looks great in there! When do you fire it up?
I'm sure you've taken every precaution. Double checked all the fluids. Primed the oil pump. Etc. etc.
Exciting stuff.
i may sound like a rookie but i would like to make sure before i go saying anything, when you mean prime the oil pump you mean turn the engine over by hand or disconnecting the ignition coil?? I still gotta add coolant or water. Im just waiting for the studs to come in and then after that i could install my MR. G 260 gasket along with my intake and header. After that's said and done i still have no carb my gf brother is putting the final touches on it i believe.

but i will keep you guys posted! i still gotta buy i think three more things. the lokar throttle bracket, lokar throttle cable and this one was just added to the list a clutch slave cylinder. but other than that i think i should be all set oh wait i gotta buy some octane booster because when i sat it down i think i had a half tank of unleaded gas. in there.
 
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by fordboy300
i may sound like a rookie but i would like to make sure before i go saying anything, when you mean prime the oil pump you mean turn the engine over by hand or disconnecting the ignition coil??
When I assembled my 400, before installing the distributor & valve covers, I used a 1/4"-drive speed wrench with a socket (taped to an extension for extra insurance, it'd really suck if it were to fall down inside of there) and cranked the oil pump driveshaft until oil was coming up into the heads.



I wouldn't recommend turning over the entire rotating assembly to get the pump primed & filter filled, that will take a little while.

Even with the voluminous amount of assembly lube everywhere, getting oil where it needs to be as soon as possible is a Good Thing.™
 
  #59  
Old 04-19-2012, 01:44 PM
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Dang so I shoulda did that before I installed the dizzy. Bummer lol
 
  #60  
Old 04-19-2012, 02:08 PM
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Yep you really should. Cold starts are hard on a motor. A cold start on a new motor that's never had any oil pumped thru it could cause some real damage.
 


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