Update on Project: Six Shooter :)
#16
Most engines are mounted at a slight angle ( around 3 - 5 degrees ) . If your intake has some angle built into it too then it may be too much of an angle. If you are worried about it take it to the machine shop and have them mill it some to flatten it out.
#18
MORE PICS!!!
Just wanted to keep you updated my machinist has been i guess "taking his time" on my head not to worried because the work is phenomenal but its all most been 2 weeks since i dropped it off thank god today i went and he said by the end of the week it would be done!
and for the promise pictures!
the long stock cam.. still looks good!
and the P&P head, now my machinist has been doing this for 40 years and man he loves these ford sixes he told me a good six could keep up with a v8 but at higher MPH the v8 would overcome, but heres the pic! my old man loved it!
and for the promise pictures!
the long stock cam.. still looks good!
and the P&P head, now my machinist has been doing this for 40 years and man he loves these ford sixes he told me a good six could keep up with a v8 but at higher MPH the v8 would overcome, but heres the pic! my old man loved it!
#21
Just thought about this since i have the DP manifold and not the C should i put the slanted part where the secondaries sit or does it matter?!
#22
The thickest part of the slant needs to go towards the back of the engine no matter how the carb is orientated. But if the intake already has the slant built into it you'll want to have the spacer milled flat..
#23
I was surprised with the head photo by how deep the c.chambers look. So I looked at an old photo of my head (81) with .020 shaved off, and to me it seems like there is a world of difference in the size of the chambers.
BTW, you head looks great. That porting will make a world of diff. It is going to pull like sbc. You'll be cracking up when you get on it.
BTW, you head looks great. That porting will make a world of diff. It is going to pull like sbc. You'll be cracking up when you get on it.
#24
Thanks fordman for clearing that up for me !
F250 I think it looks like that probably cuz the head hadn't been milled yet. On Thursday they were the three angle valve job.
But hey thanks guys who ever I private message for help you guys are awesome for making this happen at young age I seriously didn't think this was going to happen this fast.
Thanks again I can't express that enough!
F250 I think it looks like that probably cuz the head hadn't been milled yet. On Thursday they were the three angle valve job.
But hey thanks guys who ever I private message for help you guys are awesome for making this happen at young age I seriously didn't think this was going to happen this fast.
Thanks again I can't express that enough!
#25
Yeah, lol, I thought of that too, but .020 is so minute an amount when I look at the feeler gauge, that I thought it may be a design diff. in the heads. Notice that my head has those 'wonderful' ridges to right and left of the s.plug to create swirl, so they are def. diff. designs. I was just curious is all.
You're going to love the performance!
You're going to love the performance!
#26
#27
No, not really. It's just that the studs make the install easier b/c the manifolds just hang on them and you're not fighting the gasket and trying to hold the heavy manny in place while screwing in the bolt. The studs hold better too so you don't have to keep coming back and retightening, or replacing the gasket b/c the header got loose and blew it out.
You should be able to find a set for about $30. If you can't, let me know. I used to sell them. IIRC they cost me $23 for the set, with nice hardened washers too, and crimp nuts, and add in $5 for postage. I won't charge you a cent extra.
You should be able to find a set for about $30. If you can't, let me know. I used to sell them. IIRC they cost me $23 for the set, with nice hardened washers too, and crimp nuts, and add in $5 for postage. I won't charge you a cent extra.
#29
If I might,
The design of that spacer was to keep the rear bowl fuel level. This works with the orientation of the carbs primary and secondary venturi. I'm not sure what carb you are using but most modern carbs don't need to be perfectly level. Personally I would make sure that the primarys and secondarys are on equal level and not tilted to one side. In other words primarys over the short side or long but not split where one is on a long and one on short. JMO good luck!
The design of that spacer was to keep the rear bowl fuel level. This works with the orientation of the carbs primary and secondary venturi. I'm not sure what carb you are using but most modern carbs don't need to be perfectly level. Personally I would make sure that the primarys and secondarys are on equal level and not tilted to one side. In other words primarys over the short side or long but not split where one is on a long and one on short. JMO good luck!
#30
If I might,
The design of that spacer was to keep the rear bowl fuel level. This works with the orientation of the carbs primary and secondary venturi. I'm not sure what carb you are using but most modern carbs don't need to be perfectly level. Personally I would make sure that the primarys and secondarys are on equal level and not tilted to one side. In other words primarys over the short side or long but not split where one is on a long and one on short. JMO good luck!
The design of that spacer was to keep the rear bowl fuel level. This works with the orientation of the carbs primary and secondary venturi. I'm not sure what carb you are using but most modern carbs don't need to be perfectly level. Personally I would make sure that the primarys and secondarys are on equal level and not tilted to one side. In other words primarys over the short side or long but not split where one is on a long and one on short. JMO good luck!
i hear ya well the only reason i got the spacer is too heat the carb, i didnt notice the slant in it after i really looked at it but it think ima gonna get it milled or find another spacer at the j/y