Bookmarked, just in case ..... great reminder if it's been 27 plus years ....

 

Thank you for great information! Will be doing this coming up shortly.

 

Subscribed for later info...great thread.

 

Forget the aluminum garbage heater core, hacking the OE gasket up and buying additional weather-stripping and use the correct brass core.

Ignore the "without air conditioning" they advertise, it is the correct core for A/C.
1973-79 BRONCO HEATER CORE - WITHOUT A/C - BRASS | Laurel Mountain Mustang

 

I realize this is an old thread, but it was really helpful for me. I just changed out the heater core on my 1978 F100 Ranger. My project turned out to be a challenge until I finally figured out that I needed to free up the AC hoses (that connect to the condenser [or evaporator as the guy on North Country calls it]). Once I did that, I could move the condenser around enough to get at the heater core. Removing the air filter housing under the hood also allowed the condenser hoses to move more freely.
I opted to do this replacement because I had a leak coming out of the cover and most of the posts on this site indicate a problem with the heater core given those symptoms. We'll see.
I'm basically finished except I've got to put the thermocouple back in then the vent and then the cover.
After that, I've got to get coolant into the new heater core, but that part I haven't figured out. Does that simply go into the engine's radiator, or do I have to fill it elsewhere. Thanks in advance.

 

Wisdum, thanks for this information, photos and all. Just wanted to know how you refilled the coolant afterward. Can you explain that?

 

What happens if you remove that cover under the hood? Is the unit really ruined if removed? What's under it?

I'm looking at this piece and wondering if I can hack some of it out to clear the EFI intake manifold on my 4.9L 6cyl.

 

He said air filter housing, as in carb air filter. Are you asking about the evap (big box) cover under the hood or that metal cover that is rived to the side of it?

What is under it.....the blower fan. and heater core for starters. I will post some detailed pics later on this afternoon.

 

Found them. If you are not using the a/c set, just remove the big box all together and go to a heater core only set up.

Wala, tons of room.

 

77&79F250, good photos. I'm South Carolina, so I'm going to keep the AC intact. What I'm trying to figure out is once you pull and replace the heater core, and put everything back together, then how do you get the fluid back in the system?

 

Take it to an a/c shop and have them service it. Might have them do a conversion from R12 to R134a (fittings) while it is there??? Or something like that, maybe Freeze 12, I think it is an cheap alternate to R12?


That is why there are a/c shops. lol

 

I think he's asking about the engine coolant, not the refrigerant for the A/C system. That, you just fill at the radiator. Idle the engine with the heater on to bleed the air out.

 

I have a 1978 f350 that's setup like this. I need to get the heat working but I would like to lose the AC. The previous owner removed the lines and condenser/pump? I would like to remove the big black box as well. What does the heater setup look like without that box? What do I need to do to completely remove that AC and have the heat working? Thanks
Matt.

 

Remove the large a/c box set up and get a none a/c smaller box. Replace the heater core and the blower motor. You will still have the dash vents, but that is no big deal IMO.

 

I want to keep my facotry a/c but need the parts. If you are getting rid of the facotry a/c like the black box, things like that. I'M VERY INTERESTED!!!