I've done it before a few years back but it's time again. I have a 99 with a nice galley puddle going. Anyone have a Writeup with pictures?

 

Checkout this page, scroll to the bottom for the instructions.

Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines

 

That doesn't show step by step for removal. I'm looking for pics of each step starting with fuel bowl removal. Tnanks

 

I did a search and came up with a complete step by step to do it. No pics though. But it's not a difficult job, I just swapped mine out last week at my son's place in California, without instructions. Remove the fuel bowl and lines, unscrew the gear cover on the front of the timing cover, remove the gear bolt and washer, then remove the two HPOP pump bolts and pull the pump out. There are only two bolts on the fuel bowl and five lines. The pump itself has only two lines and one sensor plug.

 

Pretty simple project.

1) Drain the HPOP reservoir oil by sucking out the oil through the top of the reservoir at the plug (3/16" Allen)





2) Drain the fuel bowl as you normally would for a filter change.



3) Remove the fuel lines off of the fuel bowl (4) the two on the passenger side are 9/16", the feed line is 3/4" and the return line is 5/8".







4) Remove the EBPS using a 1" & 9/16" wrench. Remove the EBPS tube off of the nipple on the front cover.



5) Remove the Fuel Bowl Heater connector (white connector)



6) Remove the two bolts on the front of the HPOP Reservoir holding the fuel bowl in.



7)Slide the fuel drain line rubber hose off of the fuel bowl aft to allow the fuel bowl to be removed.



8) Remove the HPOP Lines off of the HPOP using a Special Tool

Eaton STC fitting remove and install - YouTube

9) Remove the two bolts (8mm) from the HPOP Drive Gear Cover.



10) Using an 18mm socket, remove the drive gear bolt. You will have to hold the crank or accessory drive as the bolt is pretty tight. Be careful not to drop the bolt or washer in the front cover area.



11) Remove the IPR Connector.



12) Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the HPOP onto the front cover.



Reinstall is in reverse order.

Drive Gear Bolt torque is 95 ft-lb

HPOP Bolt torque is 18 ft-lb

Front Cover bolt torque is 15-24 ft-lb

 

Ken:

Great job!! Reps sent!!

 

Thanks brotha!!! I just gotta do my o rings so this will help

 

Make sure you get fuel line sleeves as well. You will need them.

Riffraff Diesel: Complete Fuel Bowl Seal Kit

 

Well I guessed the drive bolt torque dead on, but the HPOP bolts I went to 30 ft/lbs, 18 seems way too loose for that size and length bolts. He'll also need some way to hold backup in the crank to tighten the drive bolt. The high pressure oil lines can be unscrewed if you don't have a tool to remove them, just pay attention to the check valves under the fittings.

 

Actually 18 ft-lbs is plenty to hold the HPOP onto the front cover. The bolts are there to hold it in place. Over-Torquing the bolts into the aluminum threads of the front cover is risky. The aluminum is not strong enough to support high torque and the threads can fail.

 

I'm fully aware of the role of these bolts and what can happen if they're over torqued. At the same time, they do to a certain degree support the HPOP,(as it's a horizontal installtion) they're not just smply there to hold it in place. If it were a vertical installation, them being there to only hold it in place would be true.

 

I have the fuel bowl kit from ford is that the same?

 

I just done this!!! its not hard at all,took me like 2 hr...(waiting on pump to drain from fitting) i didnt drain the before i started...man what a power increase!! the fittings to the pump(ones that screw in) was finger tight!!! i unscrewed them with my fingers!!
after i installed all o rings,put loctight and tightened them to spec!!
now no leaks and full oil psi to injectors...best 11 dollars and 2 hrs spent!!

 

Ken... thanks for the wonderfully illustrated writeup. I've compiled it into a PDF document, complete with a few additional resources related to how the quick connect fittings work from both the Eaton and PowerStrokeNation websites. Perhaps the PDF will be simpler for someone to download and use as a reference... I know it is for me.

 

One thing I wondered about the draining of the oil reservior, we skipped that step, I fail to see why it would be a necessity, I had plenty of oil in the valley to start with. We also didn't drain the fuel filter. I did drain my antifreeze down to remove the bypass hose, that made dealing with the front cover and bolt so much easier as did taking the belt off the FEAD.