Rain here for several days so I need the Bronco on the red clay road as opposed to driving the '11 Mustang GT. So.....taking the wife to a Dr. appt. and knowing the drivers side front disc brake rotor is grooved, I keep an ear out for odd sounds. Crap....really grinding now on the way home.

Had hoped for it to last another week or so since my right arm is having an issue with not having any grip but no luck. Go to my friendly local shop to see about the damage control.... $250 estimate....

Three hours later, new pads, two new rotors, bearings repacked, auto hubs greased, and rear brakes checked.....and $239.13 out the door. A guy has to do what he has to do.....

Oh well....Merry Christmas to my Bronco.

 

Well, sometimes you DO have to do what you gotta do... er.. ah...

But if it really bothers you, you could grab a chain and go around beating yourself with it like they do in the middle east. No, with your arm problem, better not.
Anyway, just think of all of the $$ you have saved to-date by doing things yourself.

 

And think of the lives you have saved by improving your braking. Not too mention the piece of mind you now have.

Jim

 

The peace of mind is good for sure.....

Yep, hard to beat myself up with the recently bad right arm.

Also helps to rant a bit on here.....lol

 

Tru dat!

 

I just did new rotors on my Bronco a few months ago. I know your pain ($$).

 

$240 is not all that much considering how much stuff has to be removed to get the rotor off and replaced. good thing these rotors are dirt cheap and the brake pads are super easy to install!

 

I did the same around here, add new manual hubs and u-joints and i spent around $520 (doing the job myself).

 

Yes..the price was not to bad considering.....plus the mechanic was a Bronco owner in the past and was very familiar with the last years of them. He looked things over good and really wanted to do an off road test drive...lol.

Now, if I could just get the dang EGR valve to break loose.

 

Is it stuck on the EGR tube? if so, took me months to finally get mine off. I was also worried about pulling the bolts for the EGR valve out of the intake, I'm already one bolt size up because of the softness.

Lots and lots of PB, then finally found an adjustable wrench I could fit a long pipe over the end of. Probably took a couple hundred pounds of force to break free, the wrench flexed, the motor twisted, the pipe bent, it was not fun. Though I think 'tapping' the fitting with a BFH is really what made it finally break loose. Make sure it's nice and lubed before you get it to turn at the fitting or you'll twist your EGR tube into two pieces.

 

Yep....sounds like the procedure I am going thru now.....the shop I deal with on occasion suggested heat..... One of these days, I will be set to replace the tube and such if I have to and then it will come off, one way or another. At least, it is the only code I have.

 

swapping my valve out made a huge deal in how my motor run. It was acting like the valve wasn't seating or the diaphragm was punctured, but in fact it was the body of the valve that was leaking (the gasket where the top and bottom connect), so I had a constant vacuum leak from it.

you dont need heat, just lots of PB and a 3+' long breaker to get it off.

 

My tube was actually rusted through. I just replaced it all when I put my pacesetter LTs on.

 

Mine broke at the flex point, just a bit, I'm leaving it for the time being as it should have no real negative consequences.

Found my EGR valve off of Amazon for like $25 and it was better quality than stock, made in USA.. was sorta surprised, felt like I got lucky with that one