6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Is this really a headgasket issue? I am now not so sure.

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Old 12-21-2011, 07:20 PM
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Is this really a headgasket issue? I am now not so sure.

2005 F-350, CC, Long Bed, 87.6K. I have asked about these things before but after the replys and doing some reading, some testing, I still don't have real answers.

I have an EDGE INSIGHT ATTITUDE W/Juice. BUT it is kept in the "0" setting. I do not use the other settings. I use it to monitor temps and codes only. Currently, I have one code and it is for the Fan Speed Sensor Circuit, no signal P0528.

Had EGR Valve replaced October 2010, Oil Cooler EGR Cooler replaced last November 2010, HPOP STC in August 2011. I reflowed the FICM in November and cleaned out my EGR valve a while before that. AND after the Oil Cooler EGR Cooler change, the Diesel Mechanic gave me a gallon of coolant. He said as the system runs air may work out and i will need to add coolant. He was right, I did about half of the bottle, but it took a while before I noticed the level.

I use nothing but Motorcraft Fuel and Oil filters at 5K intervals using Rotella T-6 5W-40. I am due for a change shortly.

Only when towing (12K[GVW] Outback Fifth Wheel), I get white spotting from the degass bottle. This symptom has only been present this year, and only when I have towed up a grade.

During normal driving, no trailer, I do stomp on it occasionally (to keep things "Cleaned Out" heh...heh!..) I have no coolant result from the degass bottle.

I have read about follow on cooler clogging and causing the coolant to boil, blowing pockets of steam back to the degass bottle which vent at 16PSI.

My Operating Temps according to my Edge are 180-188 EOT, 178-185 ECT, with the biggest spread being about 7 degrees fully warmed up and running (with no trailer) between 75-80 MPH.

Is that too fast? Sorry....

If in fact this is a head lift issue, which has just manifested itself this year, is it possible , or even advisable to try to pull the TTY bolts and swap them for APR Studs with out R&R'ing the headgaskets? (If this is even the problem!)

I am picking at TSB 09-8-3 and was going to hook up a gauge to the Degass bottle. Prior to doing that, after the engine had been run for about an hour, I took the cap off. Pressure released, followed by a short gurgling noise. Hmmm. I intend on connecting a guage shortly, regardless, to see if I get pressure building while running.

I went to Acadia NP and did not have gauges at the time. There were some decent hills we hit. I did smell coolant. Upon getting to the campground, I took a look and it appear coolant had been sprinkled and dried around the degass bottle. That is when my concern started. The level was low, so I added the remaining coolant. That was late August, early September.

To aggravate things, I did not realize the coolant (Motorcraft Gold) was a 50/50 Mix. So the gallon of coolant that went in was straight concentrate. That could have an effect on the coolant as well. Perhaps?

There is no apparent residue, putty like substance in the coolant, coolant appears clear and clean.

Sorry for the long intro, but I know it helps a lot of people in knowing what the base information is.

Eric
 

Last edited by egregg57; 12-21-2011 at 07:33 PM. Reason: Forgot letter in title... SPELLING!
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:09 PM
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How full are you getting the degas bottle? Full is just below the add mark. Maybe youve just got a bad cap? Whats your boost under load?
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by steelhead2
How full are you getting the degas bottle? Full is just below the add mark. Maybe youve just got a bad cap? Whats your boost under load?
Coolant level is about 1/4 " below minimum mark. Has not moved from there in some time.

The actual boost under load I can not say for sure. That is a parameter I have not monitored. On the way back from Acadia, I did get the EDGE to chirp at me a couple of times. It flashed BOOST. but I do not know what PSI it was. I do have the ability to monitor it, but with out towing (I am done for the season) it will be hard to know the max i am pushing.

Replaced the cap this fall. I still have the old one. I can not say that I have seen much of a change between old and new.

Thanks!

Eric
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:23 PM
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I had an overboost due to a stuck unison ring in my turbo and everytime it would overboost id get a small amount of the dreaded chalky residue around the cap. Havent had any since i cleaned the turbo, that was a long time ago. If your edge is chirping boost id keep a close eye on it. Floor it and see where it goes to. Be careful though, if its 30 and climbing let off.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:31 PM
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Your Idea is not one that I have heard much about. I have heard EGR Cooler, Head gaskets....<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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It stands to reason that high boost could be the issue. As I mentioned I notice it showing up where I have been required to go up a grade. With about 12K on the truck it would be fully loaded. For sure.<o></o>
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I wonder if it would not be worth the time to remove and clean the turbo. I am sure it couldn't hurt the situation....<o></o>
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I would just like to be able to nail down the problem, definitively. Not that i don't trust the local dealers and garages, I would like to know what the deal is, to be able to make that decision myself. I don't like being at anyones mercy...if you know what I mean!

Eric
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:37 PM
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I can see it too if its got a bad unison ring and the veins are sticky you could be having an overboost condition in turn lifting the heads and putting pressure into the coolant system causing the puke or white chalk at the degass bottle

Try what steel mentions a new cap and keep that coolant leval below the fill line on the coolant bottle

Really the only other options get more $$$$ with what your towing I do think your a canidate for ARP Studs IMO
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:28 PM
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I appreciate the input! I had not considered over boost. Because my Edge has already chirped at me about that condition I guess it is a distinct possibility. Tonight on the way home from work, I set boost and load on my Edge to monitor. Once warmed up and on the highway I laid into her got it up to about 94% and could not get boost to go above 24 PSI I think. It was hard trying to keep an eye on Max numbers. Of course I am "light". Nothing in the bed, no weight beyond me and fuel.

I think I need to go to ARP studs as well. I was wondering if they can be installed without removing gaskets, or if it is necessary to hit the gaskets too?

Interesting!
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:09 AM
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If you do studs I think you would be shooting yourself in the Foot if you didnt do gaskets to with coolant issues
I would be more for it if you didnt already have coolant issue Just gota put it out there

Probably have some time to ponder it assuming you only pull the camper in summer time

Oh your Boost dont look to bad at 24PSI but like you say wonder what it gets to when your towing

Is towing the only time that you notice the coolant issues???
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
If you do studs I think you would be shooting yourself in the Foot if you didnt do gaskets to with coolant issues.
I sure do agree with you Benny!
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
If you do studs I think you would be shooting yourself in the Foot if you didnt do gaskets to with coolant issues
I would be more for it if you didnt already have coolant issue Just gota put it out there

Probably have some time to ponder it assuming you only pull the camper in summer time

Oh your Boost dont look to bad at 24PSI but like you say wonder what it gets to when your towing

Is towing the only time that you notice the coolant issues???
That's correct, only when I tow. The only think I am towing is the 5VR. Eric
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by egregg57
2005 F-350, CC, Long Bed, 87.6K.

My Operating Temps according to my Edge are 180-188 EOT, 178-185 ECT, with the biggest spread being about 7 degrees fully warmed up and running (with no trailer) between 75-80 MPH.

Eric
You do seem to be running a little cool, try changing the thermostat. My truck runs up to 190 fairly quickly and then holds there under normal driving. Pulling a trailer uphill can take it up over 200. Maybe it is stuck and causing problems when towing.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by davidkstyler
You do seem to be running a little cool, try changing the thermostat. My truck runs up to 190 fairly quickly and then holds there under normal driving. Pulling a trailer uphill can take it up over 200. Maybe it is stuck and causing problems when towing.
Huh... I thought my temps were good. It takes a while for me to get to the 180's. Coolant normally gets to the average numbers I am seeing first. How long is "fairly quickly"?

Eric
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by egregg57
Huh... I thought my temps were good. It takes a while for me to get to the 180's. Coolant normally gets to the average numbers I am seeing first. How long is "fairly quickly"?

Eric
Coolant temp is usually 190 after about 5 miles going to work and 3 miles on the way home. Its a gentle downhill from home to work.
It sounds like your thermostat is stuck open.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by davidkstyler
Coolant temp is usually 190 after about 5 miles going to work and 3 miles on the way home. Its a gentle downhill from home to work.
It sounds like your thermostat is stuck open.
If it is stuck open what sort of effects other than slow warming would I expect to see? I guess I need to understand how that Thermostat is effecting the system, open or closed.

Eric
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by egregg57
If it is stuck open what sort of effects other than slow warming would I expect to see? I guess I need to understand how that Thermostat is effecting the system, open or closed.

Eric
The engine would be slow to warm up, and maybe overheat if the thermostat does not open enough. Just a thought!

It is also recommended that you check the EOT/ECT delta with the engine at 190 F.

Getting the ECT up 10 degrees might even help with MPG, a cold engine is not as efficient.

I have heard that they are about $25 so it would be an easy/low cost thing to try before you tear into the engine.

Here are some recommended temperatures: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
See posts 1 & 2.
 


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