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It is cold enough now that I have been plugging in for a few hours before driving and I don't drive it very often. So that is what I did today so I could go pick up some Christmas stuff. Thing started great, (plugging in is wonderful) so I let it idle to warm up while I took a shower. I got out of the shower and heard it running lumpy and it was smoking heavily. I ran outside and shut it down, then restarted it and got the same thing. I used my edge programmer for the only thing it is good for and scanned it. I got P0344 and P0603.
P0344 CMP Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0603 Internal Control Module KAM Error
I checked the oil and it looked clean, about 2 quarts low though.
Can one trigger the other? Seems like I have had the P0603 for a while but the P0344 is new. Any chance I could be lucky and this is just the CPS issue? I haven't done a CPS yet and have only drove the truck about 4000 miles so it is still new to me. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
603 can come from unhooking the batteries. Have you done that recently? I'd change the cps for the other one and see what happens. Kind of funky things its doing for being a cps, but try it, you need a spare anyway.
__________________ Darin I BLEED BLUE 76F250 66 fairlane dragcar514
1997 F250 HD 7.3,3.55-4.10 swap done,156k,140VIDM,HPX, 3-4"tymar w 4"straight pipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, DIY 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php tunes,T500 HPOP,180 tstat,6.0 fan,6.0IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and triple disc billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
It has only been down to 30-ish degrees. I am not using a fuel additive. As far as the 603, is it possible that my programmer could be the culprit for that? I know the Edge programmers don't get very high regards. It was running fine for a while, probably 30 minutes or so before I noticed it having problems. I have been driving it 30-50 miles once every week or two without problems and have deffinetly drove it on colder days. Usually, as long as I plug it in for a few hours, it always starts fine.
I just finished changing out the CPS and will try it in the morning. It sits in my driveway, about 8 feet from my neighbors bedroom window so I don't want to(more like she wouldn't appreciate if I tried to) start it right now. I don't know if you can tell visually if a CPS is bad but, I did notice that on the round end that goes into the block there looks like 2 small dots. They look like soldered contacts, and one was corroded and kinda degraded. I hope this fixes it, this is the wrong time of the year to have to have spendy repairs. Thanks guys.
I seem to be getting a lot of oil in the turbo now, did something let loose? The knocking noise is internmittent and seems to go away if I give it a little fuel. The other thing is that when I give it fuel and let off quickly it stumbles hard and half the time it dies. THIS SUCKS!
Where did you get your CPS? You need one from Ford or International. The parts store CPS's are no good.
__________________
--Nate "Just a redneck geek"
1996 F-350 7.3L PSD, 4x4, CCLB SRW, 3.55's, E4OD, EBPV Delete, 3" DP, Stock Tailpipe and Muffler, Riffraff 6637 Intake, 400,000 miles and counting.
If it isn't under warranty, I'll fix it myself.
Where did you notice oil getting in the turbo? Do you have any oil in the tailpipe? Any way you can post up a video for us to see?
__________________ Darin I BLEED BLUE 76F250 66 fairlane dragcar514
1997 F250 HD 7.3,3.55-4.10 swap done,156k,140VIDM,HPX, 3-4"tymar w 4"straight pipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, DIY 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php tunes,T500 HPOP,180 tstat,6.0 fan,6.0IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and triple disc billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
The oil seems to be on the exit side. I see oil seeping down the rod of the EBPV. I would guess it is due to no combustion in a couple cylinders and blowing the oil out the exhaust? I think my plan of attack is to ohm test the injectors and see where that takes me. I will start outside the valve covers and if any come back out of range, tear them off and inspect the wiring harness and go from there. It still strikes me odd that it happened while idliling at warm up. Could having been down 2 quarts of oil contributed to this?
I did buy a parts store CPS and I understand that staying OEM is pretty much mandatory but, I was in a pinch and it did clear up the code it was throwing. Any other ideas? Thanks guys.
2 quarts low isn't enough to matter on anything. Have you pulled the downpipe to see if there is oil in there? If there is, that is a sign of a turbo needing rebuilt. Check play in the intake wheel also.
Check the wiring/injectors like you said you are gonna do and let us know what you find.
__________________ Darin I BLEED BLUE 76F250 66 fairlane dragcar514
1997 F250 HD 7.3,3.55-4.10 swap done,156k,140VIDM,HPX, 3-4"tymar w 4"straight pipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, DIY 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php tunes,T500 HPOP,180 tstat,6.0 fan,6.0IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and triple disc billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
Darin,i know that 2 qt low isnt suppose to hurt anything,but my grandson had a 96 a few years back and it started running bad we check the oil and it was 2 or3 qt low,added oil and fixed problem,worth the try.
jim
I suspect the turbo is done because of the oil in it, but I still need to figure out why it is isn't firing on all cylinders. After researching this, and other sites, I suspect I have an injector that or 2 that is bad.
I suspect the turbo is done because of the oil in it, but I still need to figure out why it is isn't firing on all cylinders. After researching this, and other sites, I suspect I have an injector that or 2 that is bad.
-Joseph
I'm thinking the turbo is toast, but that won't make it miss. Does it smell like motor oil or diesel fuel?
I would just pull the VC's and see what things look like while the truck is running. You can lay the gaskets back onto the heads and start the truck without any issues. In addition to inspecting the wiring harnesses, you want to observe whether the injectors are all spitting oil out the spouts. If they aren't they aren't firing. It takes a little time to pull the covers, but that's really the best way to see what's going on in this type of scenario.
__________________
--Nate "Just a redneck geek"
1996 F-350 7.3L PSD, 4x4, CCLB SRW, 3.55's, E4OD, EBPV Delete, 3" DP, Stock Tailpipe and Muffler, Riffraff 6637 Intake, 400,000 miles and counting.
If it isn't under warranty, I'll fix it myself.
I'm leaning towards the uvch first, you said it was running ok, then started the bad running real fast. If you were having injector problems, I'd think you would have noticed a gradual problem. It still could be an injector or two, but I'd for sure check over all the wiring and pins real close first. I would do what Nate suggested. You could start it with the covers off and unplulg one injector at a time and see if you can isolate the problem that way too. If it runs worse, that injector is probably ok, if it runs the same, there is an issue with either the injector or wiring leading to it.
Turbo may be toast too like Nate said.
__________________ Darin I BLEED BLUE 76F250 66 fairlane dragcar514
1997 F250 HD 7.3,3.55-4.10 swap done,156k,140VIDM,HPX, 3-4"tymar w 4"straight pipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, DIY 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php tunes,T500 HPOP,180 tstat,6.0 fan,6.0IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and triple disc billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
Smells like oil out the exhaust. From all the starting it and toying around it is down a noticable amount. Maybe a quart. Hoping to pull the VC's this weekend. I believe I read you can ohm test them and they should read between 3-5 ohms. Is that correct and would it be beneficial to do before pulling the VC's? I guess if they ohm out of range I need to pull the covers anyway... answered my own question. How hard is a turbo rebuild, seems like it wouldn't be too bad once I get it off the truck. I was planning on a new DP anyway, so I would be part way there.
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Darin I BLEED BLUE 76F250 66 fairlane dragcar514
