I did a ground up restoration on a '78 F250 4x4. I opted for powder coating all I could. You're already doing what I would suggest with the pics. I didn't take enough, (no digital cameras back then) and ended up with a lot of trial by error bolt holes. Good choice on replacing the bushings as well. I recommend using new grade 8 hardware, and anti seize compound throughout the build.

Honestly evaluate the wear of your existing parts and components. As easy as it can be to replace everything with new parts at this stage, you can end up over spending when it's not needed.

Try thinking long term. Are you going to keep both gas tanks? Are you going to run dual exhaust? If the side tank is not there, it can free up more room for options... Are you using the stock wiring harness or do you need to consider new mounting points for a newer harness? Additional wiring to the rear etc. Electric fuel pump or manual, do you need to run return fuel lines to each tank? In line fuel filters are easily attached to the frame rails at this point.

I'd rebuild the chassis to where it's capable of rolling on wheels. At that point, obviously moving it around becomes much easier. I opted for doing the body work last. Maybe consider using a bed liner type spray on the undercarriage of the body or fender wells...

Don't be in a hurry to get it back together. Use this time to evaluate what you want out of the truck and what modifications, if any, are needed. Good luck and have fun.

 

Looks great!

I did the back half of mine when I cut the old rusted-to-hell bed off of it. When I say "did" - I wire wheeled it with a radial twisted strand brush, not a cup brush - it seemed to work a lot faster than the cup brush did!

Also - I notice you have coil springs in the front. I wasn't aware that any F250's came with coil springs - was this a 2WD feature, or is the truck frame originally a 100/150 series?

-Brad

 

Looking good, keep up the good work.

 

Looks great man I am jealous of all you people who have actually got to start their builds.

 

Awesome!!! Did you end up just using the wire wheel on the rest of the frame, or did you go back to the 80 grit disks?

 

Thanks grinnergetter! It means a lot coming from you since I've watched your build for a few months now and see nothing but the highest quality there.

 

Thanks for the thoughtful post CHAOTIC. Thanks for pointing out the pratical as well. I started off saying I wouldn't go as far as I already have. It's hard not to replace everything once you get going but I do need to balance that with praticality.

Good point on the gas tanks and I have already begun thinking about that exact thing. For me, it seems to be more pratical to drop the rear tank and simplify the fuel system and go with a spare tire in its place. This will be a periodic driver and nothing long distance so I don't see the need for two tanks. I'm looking for input on this point if anyone has suggestions. Would it be easy to rig up a spare tire hanger where the rear tank was? I'm guessing it would be easy to find a replacement heater control panel (if that's what it's called) without the fuel tank switch?

I think I'll follow your plan on the restoration process. I'm almost to the point of getting the wheels back on (waiting on wheel caps now) and then I can roll the chassis out and start on the body.

Thanks again for your post.

 

Thanks Brad! Towards the end of my frame prep I tried the strand brush and I found it worked better at certain angles and on certain pieces.

You know, I'm not sure about the coil springs. I'm going to guess its a factory feature and maybe specific to 2WD's. Many of the parts catalogs I use have them for my year/model so it should be factory. Having said that though the springs I originally ordered from NPD for my year/model were wrong (way to short). I ordered the F350's instead and they matched almost exactly. The new ones were an inch or two taller and I'm guessing that was just spring compression on the 30 year old springs.

 

Thanks BDawg171! I used the wire wheel on the rest of the frame. It was less aggressive and lasted longer.

 

Thanks Rob and USArmy!

USArmy are you still active duty? I just did some work for the 82nd in Afghanistan. Quite an experience! Our soldiers already had a lot of respect from me and that experience strengthened it even more.

 

There is a spare tire rack that bolts the tire up under the rear gas tank. This is a stock part. There should be no modifications needed. You also have the option of installing an aftermarket 40 gal gas tank in the same rear location. However, there would be no room for the spare. I'd keep the spare if I were you.

 

Good to know. So you can have both the spare tire and stock rear tank?

 

Most of the tire racks are gone by now. Mine was so I put in the 38 gallon tank. I'm putting a tonneau cover on so it can go in the bed.

 

"Good to know. So you can have both the spare tire and stock rear tank?"

Yes, as long as you use the stock rim size and tire. Search the web or junk yards, they are easy to install.

 

Yes, as long as you use the stock rim size and tire. Search the web or junk yards, they are easy to install.