Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 01:17 PM
duggyb duggyb is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Earl Grey ,Saskatchewan
Posts: 502
duggyb is starting off with a positive reputation.
96' F250 XLT 7.3 Powerstroke

Well guys, bought my first diesel the other day, used to own a 97 F-150 and it was a decent truck, my daily is a 2012 ecoboost, but i want this truck for making trips to the mountains either towing a sled or if i get a deck for it

Its a 1996 Ext Cab XLT 4x4 Automatic 360,000km(223,000 miles)
has a Magnaflow 4 inch straight to 5 inch tip
has ford high idle kit installed and brake controller

my concerns

-it has a creak type sound coming from where the door/fender/hood meet on both sides when going over bumps, much worse when cold, anyone know what this is?
-the doors sag a bit so i know i need to do door pins, maybe the other noise is in relation to this?

what kind of tune can i get to optimize fuel delivery and economy, i don't need extra power.

all i know about the truck is what the previous owner told me

he said he checked ball joints and they were good, he did tie rod ends did both wheel bearings and front and carrier bearings? also did front u joints? not sure which ones.
said he changed vacuum pump and flushed rad,tranny and front axle

anyways i need to know everything to look for and get done before i make some trips, just to cover my *** so i don't break things on the long haul.

also how are these trannys suppose to shift? mine seems very smooth, unless i am really gunnin on her and then the 2nd-3rd is pretty rough, any ideas?

other thing is it rides very rough, i understand its a 3/4 ton and solid axle so i expect it to ride rough, but how could i see if i need suspension work or not?

anything else i should know?

the day i picked her up
Click the image to open in full size.

Thanks.
Dustin
__________________
94.5' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/212k Miles--Current Rig
95' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/215k Miles--RIP Big Blue Totaled 01/2013
96' F250 Extended Cab LB XLT 4x4/E40D/7.3 Powerstroke/280k Miles--Sold!
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 02:22 PM
DIYMechanic's Avatar
DIYMechanic DIYMechanic is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Wooster, Ohio
Posts: 7,399
DIYMechanic is a name known to allDIYMechanic is a name known to allDIYMechanic is a name known to allDIYMechanic is a name known to allDIYMechanic is a name known to allDIYMechanic is a name known to all
For the creaking sound, check the two fender bolts that go down through the top of the fender inside the engine compartment. They tend to loosen up and cause that creaking noise. They are part 3A in this picture (top and center).

Click the image to open in full size.

As far as preventative maintenance goes, here is the bare minimum I would do:
Change the Oil using a good quality motor oil rated for a diesel application (I prefer Shell Rotella T)
Use a good quality oil filter when you do the change (Motorcraft FL1995 is a good filter, and doesn't cost a ton.)
Check the coolant levels using diesel coolant test strips, and change the coolant if it looks less than clean.
Check all the rest of the fluid levels and top off where needed-- front diff, rear diff, transmission, power steering, transmission, transfer case.
Check the air filter box assembly. If it has bolts with square hoels in it, it is a recalled part and should be replaced. If it is bolts with slotted heads, you're good.
Check the air filter and replace if it is dirty (more on this in a moment).
Grease all chassis lube points that you can grease (tie rod ends, etc)

As an upgrade to these things, you may want to just bite the bullet and change all the fluids. It might seem like it will cost you a lot, but it's hard to tell how long those fluids have been in there and the peace of mind that comes with knowing they are all fresh is worth what you will spend on them. The first modification that anyone should do to their truck in my opinion, is to install a 6637 air filter and scrap the stock air box. Riffraff diesel sells a very nice kit for this purpose and it costs less than $100. Here is a link.

That's about it that I can think of right now, but I am sure others will chime in shortly with a list of things I have neglected.

Oh, and welcome to "the dark side"! You're going to like that truck.
__________________
--Nate "Just a redneck geek"

1997 F-350 7.3 PSD, 4x4, CCLB SRW, 3.55's, ZF5
If it isn't under warranty, I'll fix it myself.

Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 03:45 PM
Hussler's Avatar
Hussler Hussler is online now
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Medford Oregon
Posts: 2,969
Hussler has a great reputation on FTE.Hussler has a great reputation on FTE.Hussler has a great reputation on FTE.Hussler has a great reputation on FTE.Hussler has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
For the creaking sound, check the two fender bolts that go down through the top of the fender inside the engine compartment. They tend to loosen up and cause that creaking noise.
Yep, these pesky little bolts ...

__________________
Jim

1997 F250 HD CC 4x4 7.3L - E4OD - 3.55's
Napa 6637 - FPR Shim 3" Down Pipe & CD 203 Stat
Riffraff
HPX - Interceptor Scan Gauge - Cobalt Digital Pyro
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 04:20 PM
DarkStarMedia DarkStarMedia is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Southern AZ
Posts: 1,036
DarkStarMedia is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
What's all that white stuff on the ground?

Richard
Arizona
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:49 PM
duggyb duggyb is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Earl Grey ,Saskatchewan
Posts: 502
duggyb is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkStarMedia View Post
What's all that white stuff on the ground?

Richard
Arizona

haha i wish there was more of it? then i wouldn't have to buy a truck just to head west to the mountains with the sleds!
__________________
94.5' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/212k Miles--Current Rig
95' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/215k Miles--RIP Big Blue Totaled 01/2013
96' F250 Extended Cab LB XLT 4x4/E40D/7.3 Powerstroke/280k Miles--Sold!
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 07:58 PM
fordpride's Avatar
fordpride fordpride is online now
Louisiana Chapter LDR
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Livoina,La
Posts: 12,614
fordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud offordpride has much to be proud of
Nice truck.

This is a guide for buying a truck but it will give you a clue as to what to check out hope it helps.


You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg�s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar � it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.
__________________
Mike
2014 RAM 3500 cummins
96 F350 CC ZF5 53k with grandpas package
Lots of parts to come
97 F250 totaled 11/19/12
Louisiana FTE Member Map
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2011, 11:11 AM
duggyb duggyb is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Earl Grey ,Saskatchewan
Posts: 502
duggyb is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks everyone!

and thanks for the tips on the bolts, they were loose for sure. i tightened them all up, driver side creaking stopped, passenger still ha some, one bolt looks like it wore the hole out though, so maybe i will go with a larger one? haven't looked at it to close.

checked my air box, it has the metal bolts and straight slots, i never took it apart to check my air cleaner, going to go do that after this post. should i buy a new air filter? or just spring and get the 6637 kit?

as for the tranny, not sure how to tell if its been looked after? i am going to maybe drain it and replace with AMSoil ATF. i also found a engine and tranny out of a E series van i could snag for about $700 Ford Fuel Injected 351 CI with E40D tranny with only 160,000km - Alberta Engine, Engine Parts For Sale - Kijiji Alberta Canada.

is it worth picking up to have a spare tranny?

my rear gear ratio is 3:55, which i am happy about, i don't need tons of speed or pulling power as i am just pulling sleds, unless i end up getting a huge enclosed trailer. the fuel mileage is more beneficial to me right now.

i am going to go buy coolant strips and test that today as well when i pick up new door pins.

oil was done 6,000km ago according to the window sticker, i am going to flush and replace with AMSoil 15W40 today.

truck has no aftermarket down pipe unfortunately, is this worth changing for fuel eco? or just power? since i already have a straight pipe.

Glow plug stuff, i am going to have to leave for another day.

Injector o rings i will have to leave for a another day as well.

as for the valley of the engine, it doesn't seem wet but is very dirty greasy, whats the best way to clean this all up? my bay is filthy. Just some engine degreaser and a pressure washer??

Other questions now that i fixed my creak i still have a bit of a thud going over bumps, i looked at my leaf springs and there is a gap between where the "ball sit and slides on the spring, is this normal? i know my trailer looks like this just not sure if my truck should.

Anyways thanks all!
__________________
94.5' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/212k Miles--Current Rig
95' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/215k Miles--RIP Big Blue Totaled 01/2013
96' F250 Extended Cab LB XLT 4x4/E40D/7.3 Powerstroke/280k Miles--Sold!
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2011, 11:13 AM
DarkStarMedia DarkStarMedia is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Southern AZ
Posts: 1,036
DarkStarMedia is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by duggyb View Post
Thanks everyone!

and thanks for the tips on the bolts, they were loose for sure. i tightened them all up, driver side creaking stopped, passenger still ha some, one bolt looks like it wore the hole out though, so maybe i will go with a larger one? haven't looked at it to close.

checked my air box, it has the metal bolts and straight slots, i never took it apart to check my air cleaner, going to go do that after this post. should i buy a new air filter? or just spring and get the 6637 kit?

as for the tranny, not sure how to tell if its been looked after? i am going to maybe drain it and replace with AMSoil ATF. i also found a engine and tranny out of a E series van i could snag for about $700 Ford Fuel Injected 351 CI with E40D tranny with only 160,000km - Alberta Engine, Engine Parts For Sale - Kijiji Alberta Canada.

is it worth picking up to have a spare tranny?

my rear gear ratio is 3:55, which i am happy about, i don't need tons of speed or pulling power as i am just pulling sleds, unless i end up getting a huge enclosed trailer. the fuel mileage is more beneficial to me right now.

i am going to go buy coolant strips and test that today as well when i pick up new door pins.

oil was done 6,000km ago according to the window sticker, i am going to flush and replace with AMSoil 15W40 today.

truck has no aftermarket down pipe unfortunately, is this worth changing for fuel eco? or just power? since i already have a straight pipe.

Glow plug stuff, i am going to have to leave for another day.

Injector o rings i will have to leave for a another day as well.

as for the valley of the engine, it doesn't seem wet but is very dirty greasy, whats the best way to clean this all up? my bay is filthy. Just some engine degreaser and a pressure washer??

Other questions now that i fixed my creak i still have a bit of a thud going over bumps, i looked at my leaf springs and there is a gap between where the "ball sit and slides on the spring, is this normal? i know my trailer looks like this just not sure if my truck should.

Anyways thanks all!
Diesel trannys have a different case... so that tranny will not work... but the internals will....

Richard
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2011, 01:44 PM
427 fordman's Avatar
427 fordman 427 fordman is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Plankinton, SD
Posts: 8,757
427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.
NO pressure washer in the valley, just use some simple green and maybe some water to rinse it out being careful of the electrical connections. Plastic bag over the alternator, etc., just be careful.

As far as the intake, get a 6637 kit from clay if you can, its not expensive at all and well worth the investment for your motor. Change that downpipe also if you can, then your intake and exhaust will be just right. Turbo will spool better, engine will breathe better in and out. Slight mileage and power increase, maybe not real noticeable but your truck will like you better for it.
__________________
Darin 99 ranger 76F250 66 fairlane
"TheBeast"1997F2504x4dually4.10's,160k,140VIDM,HPX ,4-5"downpipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php,arp studs, comp springs, smith brothers push rods, T500 HPOP,melling lpop,180 tstat,6.0 fan and IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2011, 06:26 PM
duggyb duggyb is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Earl Grey ,Saskatchewan
Posts: 502
duggyb is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 427 fordman View Post
NO pressure washer in the valley, just use some simple green and maybe some water to rinse it out being careful of the electrical connections. Plastic bag over the alternator, etc., just be careful.

As far as the intake, get a 6637 kit from clay if you can, its not expensive at all and well worth the investment for your motor. Change that downpipe also if you can, then your intake and exhaust will be just right. Turbo will spool better, engine will breathe better in and out. Slight mileage and power increase, maybe not real noticeable but your truck will like you better for it.
what down pipe do you recommend? and where to get it, is clay riffraff?

i will prolly get both of those right away and do more work later, is my stock inter cooler ok? up pipes?

where are the additional tranny coolers mounted on these? i got what appears to be one in front of my rad on top left corner, or is that an oil cooler?

Thanks.
Dustin
__________________
94.5' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/212k Miles--Current Rig
95' F350 Crew Cab LB XLT 4x4/ZF05/7.3 Powerstroke/215k Miles--RIP Big Blue Totaled 01/2013
96' F250 Extended Cab LB XLT 4x4/E40D/7.3 Powerstroke/280k Miles--Sold!
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2011, 07:09 PM
427 fordman's Avatar
427 fordman 427 fordman is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Plankinton, SD
Posts: 8,757
427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.427 fordman has a great reputation on FTE.
I recommend anything but mbrp. Heard of too many with fitment issues. I don't know what size of exhaust you have but you can get a dp that is 3" all the way down, 3-3 1/2" at the bottom, or 3-4" at the bottom. Dale at tymar sells a good dp, that is what I have. Clay also sells a good one too, and I'm sure you could get the different sizes with him also.

These trucks don't have a stock intercooler so if you have one its already been added. Uppipes unless they are leaking don't mess with them. The original tranny cooler is small and located at top passenger side of radiator on outside iirc. I eliminated the stock one all together when I put a big one on. No cooling problems at all.
__________________
Darin 99 ranger 76F250 66 fairlane
"TheBeast"1997F2504x4dually4.10's,160k,140VIDM,HPX ,4-5"downpipe,ccv mod, S366 turbo, 6637, elec. fuel,rosewood stage ones,php,arp studs, comp springs, smith brothers push rods, T500 HPOP,melling lpop,180 tstat,6.0 fan and IC,trucool,coolant filter,scan gauge,lots of other gauges,racer x valve body and billet converter, upgraded trans, F550 leaf springs,mean green alternator and starter,SD dual tensioner upgrade, cold ac mod
Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2011, 07:09 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel

Tags
1996, 19961997, 1997, 73, 96, buying, cab, connecting, crew, desele, f250, f350, ford, powerstroke, rod, tie, xlt

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup