As some of you know already, I have a 1992 F-150...300/M5OD/PITA....

It's had electrical issues from day 1, and they're definantly getting any better....I've had the dash completely out for the past 2 wks....And finally had all the issues resolved, save for the fuel gauge issue...

The day I put the dash back in, partially...I somply-

-Wrapped the Fuselinks in black electrical tape (In case I have to pull it back off for some testing purposes), whis included 2 under the dash (Red/green wires for ignition, and a set of white/purple wires)...

And the Fuselink that is wired into the fenderwell starter relay....

-Wrapped a few loose wires together with tape (To make things easier to work with....)

And at the time of dash installation, the speedometer, illumination lights, gauges, etc all worked (Minus the fuel gauge)....

After installing the A/C vents/ductwork and the dash "skin".....I out my tools up for the night....

Went out the next morning at 5am to go with my GF to some Dr. appt's for her back surgery Monday....Turned the key, the fuel pump, etc primed......Turned it fully......And.....Nothing....

I had to leave the key in the ON position, and jumper the fenderwell relay over to start the truck (Back to that crap again)...

The previous time this issue happened, it was the 20amp Maxi-Fuse in the J postion in the Engine Bay Distribution Box...

Here's a diagram to further help along with this...


Again, when I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position, the fuel pump primes, gauges move to their correct position (Minus the fuel gauge)...And when I turn the key to RUN, it cuts the power as normal......And nothing...no crank, etc....

The radio, etc comes on, etc fine....

So I'm honestly at a loss...

I need this issue resolved, besides being a major PITA to start it like I'm currently have to do......I'm a Security Guard on a Mining Job....

And as a Guard, I'm sorta like a First Responder of sorts....Anything goes down, I'm there as fast as possible......SO my current method of starting the truck, will hinder that response time....

Any help will be greatly appreciated....

P.S-I've already made sure ALL of my fuses are good.....

 

Just to narrow down where the issue lies, check for 12V at the trigger wire on the starter relay when the key is turned to "START". Do you have access to a wiring diagram that shows the path of that circuit from the ignition cylinder all the way to the starter relay? I'm curious as to what fuse(s), etc., it may pass through.

 

Get a new solenoid...or just keep jumping it with a screwdriver. They are pretty cheap and have been known to fail.

 

Well....Going on the previous time this has happened....The Relay wasn't the cause, it was the fuse....

Just my luck, it'd be reversed....I'll test the one from dads truck this evening, and if that's the issue...I'll change it...

 

Hi SW,
Since you can jump the starter relay & get it to crank, lets start at the relay & work back toward the switch. Disconnect the start wire (should be R/LB) from the small terminal on the starter relay & check to see if it's got 12v when the key is turned to start. If no power there, check the neutral safety switch. I don't know where that is on an M5OD...
The circuit goes from fuse J to the ignition switch, then with the key in START, comes from the ignition switch on a R/LB wire to the neutral safety switch (or they may call it a manual lever position switch like an E4OD), then if the trans is in park or neutral, goes to the starter relay. Somewhere along there it's messed up...

 

im shure you have considered this before but if the electrical issues are that bad, i would go with a complete painless wiring kit. ive installed a couple dozen of them and its really pretty easy. goodluck

 

The NSS is gone....I simply jumpered it over, vs paying $45 for a new one...

Yes, I know its a safety thing, but I'm the only one that drives the truck...

My tester is fugged up...I have Ohms, etc available for testing...but the 1.5, 12v, etc is messed up....

I'll have to source out my dads test light...

 

The ones I've seen were like $500+....I'd be better off to buy a donor truck...

 

9 times out of 10, if you can successfully start by jumping the solenoid, that is your problem.

If you have a test light and a helper, disconnect the small lead from the solenoid (the one that doesn't look like a battery cable) and hook one end of the test light to it. Then properly ground the other lead on the test light. Finally, turn the ignition to "start". If the light comes on, your ignition is fine.

Place the small wire back on the solenoid.

Using the test light, (and making sure no one is inside the engine bay in case the truck actually starts) place one lead from the test light on the firewall side of the solenoid. Attempt to start the truck. If the light did not turn on, your solenoid is burned out.

If the light turns on w/o attempting to start, use the battery side of the solenoid. I can't remember which side goes to the starter.

And, if you're having electrical troubles, spend $10 at Lowes and buy a decent mult-meter. It'll be the best $10 you'll spend

 

Or, with the help of a multimeter check the integrity of each of your harness wires/connectors...multimeter's if you don't have one, are really dirt cheap. Continuity Test Resistance Calculator

 

I feel like there is an echo in here.

 

Here ya go fellars....

 

Try this, since it worked for me: My starter relay was starting to get stuck (even though it was a very recent Motorcraft part), and over some work i did on the fender where it's hanged i needed to take the relay off, well, what do you know? i left the relay hanging by the wires (terminals facing down) overnight and since i assembled everything the relay is yet to fail again (it has been over a year already).

 

hello hello hello

 

So you left it there, just bouncing around?

In my experience, the 2 lugs are VERY soft and tend to break easily....DOn't ask how I know...