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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #1  
Old 12-15-2011, 10:51 PM
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Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
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Fuel Pressure Regulator Update Kit Install (Blue Spring)

Here's some info and pictures of my Blue Spring Update.

Upgraded fuel pressure regulator kit (with cover): Ford#3C3Z-9T517-AG IH #1843065C98
Fuel Pressure Regulator "Spring and Reseal Kit Only" (no cover, should be much cheaper, has gasket): Ford#6E7Z-
9C165-B IH#1854267C94
Regulator cover gasket only: Ford#3C32-9C065-AA

The kit comes with a spring that will raise you fuel pressure 10-15psi. It is recommended that fuel pressure be at
least 45psi at wide open throttle and stay below 90psi. while it's a good idea to test pressure before doing this
update it is unlikely to over pressureize a properly working system.

In this picture I have drained a couple of gallons of coolant, removed the air filter assembly, removed the upper
radiator hose. I also loosened the lower CAC tube to intercooler clamp and disconnected the upper CAC tube from the
elbow on the intake manifold and twisted the tube up and out of the way. I have labeled the test port plug- this is
where a gauge can be hooked up to monitor pressure. The head of the plug takes a 6mm allen wrench and the thread
pitch in the hole is metric M12x1.5. most gauges are 1/8 NPT so an adapter fitting would be required. I also labeled
the fuel line fittings to illustrate "Double Wrenching" of the fittings. If the adapter backs out of the housing
before the nut breaks loose from the fitting, the line will twist and can easily be damaged. If you are replacing
the cover, loosen the adapter fitting from the cover before removing it from the regulator housing.

Click the image to open in full size.

In this picture, you can see the clean spot on the manifold where the fuel as leaking from the cover. The wiring
harness was soft and sticky from being fuel soaked. The wiring should be looked at closely, cleaned up an re-wrapped
if you've been leaking here. A good way to remove oil from the wiring and connectors is with a can of "air" from the
computer section at Wal-mart. If you hold the can up side down while you spray, it will dispense liquid that will
evaporate all the oil. be carefull not to spray your hands as it is VERY cold when used like that. there are also
spray solvents available designed for that purpose, but they are much more expensive than the air in a can.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the kit (3C3Z-9T517-AG $64.62 from my local dealership) spread out.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:52 PM
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Here is a shot comparing the old and new spring. Note there is a seal bonded to the backside of the lip on the new

brass cup. The other o-ring in the picture I thought went behind the plug on the test port. It would have worked but

was not a good match. Extra part #1.





Click the image to open in full size.







Here's a picture of the cover coming off. The fuel line was disconnected and the four torx screws removed. note the

little white plastic piece at the top of the groove in the housing.





Click the image to open in full size.





This piece appears to be a new sleeve for this location. My housing was one piece but yours may use this. Extra part

#2 for me. Maybe the o-ring, extra part #1, would go benind this sleeve?





Click the image to open in full size.





There is a new o-ring for the backside of the adapter fitting.





Click the image to open in full size.





Here's a picture of everything in place and ready to go back together. Dont forget the little plastic piece that

goes in the top of the channel, and the tiny o-ring on the backside of it.





Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:52 PM
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The last o-ring goes in the end of the adapter fitting before you connect the line. On my truck there was a section

of flex line somewhere below so the fitting was easy to line up. I also checked the torque on the other three lines
attatched to the housing at this point.





Click the image to open in full size.





So, not too hard or too much time . The upper CAC tube is plastic on my truck and it was a PITA to put back on

intake elbow. If yours is metal you wont have this problem. I wrestled with it for a while, tried pulling the little

spring clip out of it's groove and wrestled some more. then I used a heat gun to warm it up and it slipped right on.

Upper radiator hose and air filter assembly back in, coolant back in the degas bottle and that's it. Don't forget to

cycle the key three or four times to purge air before cranking up.



Good Luck, Hope this info helps!
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:46 AM
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Nice write-up, I'm sure it will help someone especially with all the questions about it on here lately.

My truck has the plastic CAC tube as well and its always a fight to get it on and off. The best way I've found is to grab it right after the 90 degree bend where it heads down to the intercooler. Push from there while wiggling it at the same time. Takes a bit of force but it works much better than holding it by the opening.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:22 AM
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Great Post! I'm putting this in my favorites so I can reference this when i upgrade mine. I'm planning on doing it as soon as the weather eases up. Again..Good job!
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:36 AM
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Thanks for the useful info. Excellent pics!!
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:30 AM
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Great Job Rusty

now folks can find it on here the only link I had was over to another site

I will send some reps your way when the Gods approve it
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:51 AM
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Thanks guys!
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:23 AM
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Great write up! Reps sent!
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:58 AM
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Awesome post can we make this a sticky since it seems to be brought up so much I know ill be using this soon also thanks again.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:25 PM
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Reps sent to you Rusty. Mine has been done for a year or two already but your write up is definitely tech folder material. Mike
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:03 PM
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Thanks spocky and 69cj, the webmaster (or whoever decides that) certainly has my permission to post it wherever they like.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:22 PM
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Gonna do mine this week some time Rusty... Thanks for the write up

Tried to send Reps , but you know the drill
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:39 PM
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Very nice job, will be doing this next week!

Thank you
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
. note the
little white plastic piece at the top of the groove in the housing.

Click the image to open in full size.




Dont forget the little plastic piece that

goes in the top of the channel, and the tiny o-ring on the backside of it.




i just replaced mine while it was out of the truck during my BPD install, that little white part at the top of the housing in the picture has a small white tube, i swapped it out and it didn't want to sit properly, so i took it off and noticed the little white tube behind that part is now cracked, is this a problem?
also, i am not really clear as to how this spring helps when looking at it disassembled, im assuming this spring is used as a controlled "leak" and that by placing a stiffer spring it keeps the pressure from dropping by leaking by the brass piece?
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:53 AM
 
 
 
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