Rusty,

Great post, but I couldn't find a few things. You mention to torque things to spec, but where can I find that spec, or can you tell us what it is? Also, I'll probably look like an idiot, but how do I torque the nut? I have a torque wrench for use with sockets, but how do you do it with a regular open end wrench? Maybe I'm thinking about something wrong.

 

For most things on our trucks you can find the torque chart here: Powerstroke 6.0L Technical Intro Manual it's on pages 84-87. There is a standard chart for non specific bolts at the bottom of page 85.
There is an entry for fuel filter supply and return lines that says 32 ft/lb. You would need a "crows foot" adapter for your torque wrench sorta like a cut off wrench with a square drive hole to attach it to the torque wrench. (Not a stupid question by the way ).
I didn't see a entry for the cover screws but it's close to a #10 which would be 20-25 in/lb. Many standard torque wrenches don't go down that far. The ones we use for screws at work look like a screwdriver. To be honest I think most people use German torque in these applications. (Goodntight)

 

I put blue thread locker on the torx screws and just snugged them up. Fuel lines, at 32ft-lbs just use a pair of open end wrenches and go a little past snug. They have o-rings, so you don't have to squash the heck out of them to get them to seal up.

 

So this can cause crappy mileage?
And how much is this mod for the blue spring?

 

I got my kit at IH and was a lot less than Ford because they don't
put the cover in that kit. I think is was about $ 29.00 USD
Also the crow foot wrench looks like this

and this is how you use in on the torque wrench. If you have it straight on
then you change the torque reading if you put it at a 90 then what you
set the wrench at is what you get.

So if you do it like in the photo your torque will be correct with out doing a correction calculations
Her is the how to make the correction calculations
http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm
Canadianpowerstroke : I would check for a leak.
Sean

 

Good stuff about torque, thanks!

 

I went to a ford dealer and bought the kit with the cover and all and paid 100 dollars for the kit n bout 12 dollars for egr valve gasket n o ring kit. I could have gotten it alot cheaper off the net bit i didnt hace the time to wait.

 

So not to hijack your thread man how long should u wait to do this and how long do the spring mod? How long does it last last.

 

You should do it now, I'd guess it'll take an average guy an hour or two depending on how comfortable he is with removing/installing certain parts and the exact way he does it, and it'll probably last the life of the engine but if you have a fuel pressure gauge you'll know if it gets weak again.

 

So what is a average pressure then I should be seeing

 

60psi is good. 50psi at a minimum, and would probably indicate a old spring.

 

Parts guy Ed's link took me to RiffRaff Diesel where I bought the blue spring kit without cover for $43 including shipping. I'm hoping to get a ScanGaugeII soon to get a baseline before doing blue spring and FICM repair with Atlas 40 tune.

 

Baseline for what? The scanguage 2 in all it's greatness will not read fuel pressure, or do you mean mpg's?

 

I remember reading 45 or lower is danger zone. Because the fuel pressure usually drops when you give more throttle. I would be confident installing the updated spring without a fuel pressure guage.

 

Ok, I did think it read fuel pressure, but I mostly wanted to check voltage and monitor other goodies so i'm not crushed. . I had the EGR Delete, head stud, etc treatment and they mentioned that I may want to have the FICM reworked, but they wanted $700. Any quick, easy, cheap way to check the fuel pressure?

I've been searching on here and people say to buy an M12X1.25 adapter, but I can't find all the parts to make my own external gauge. I found this (http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2671...e-adapter.aspx) but $44 seems a bit steep and then I still need to buy a gauge. Ultimately, I want to test fuel pressure before blue spring and after.

Anyone have a list of all the parts needed? Kind of an all-in-one deal? I get nervous reading all the varying recommendations and would love if someone has already done this and can provide all the info so I don't have to piece something together. I inevitably would mess something up! I guess if nothing else, just get the StrictlyDiesel kit and buy a gauge.