Fuel Pressure Regulator Update Kit Install (Blue Spring)
#61
ok thanks. i was going to bring my truck to ford to get done, but ill proab just do it myself cause thell have it for a week proab when i can do it in an hour or 2...well so id like to think. we all know how that goes. ends up taking all day. whats the step to cycle the key. how many secs per cycle.
#62
Turn the key to RUN,wait till you no longer hear the fuel pump
humming (it's on the frame rail under the driver),Wait a few minutes
do it again for a total of at least 3 times. The you good to go.
BTW : It's the same process when you change the fuel filters
for the removal of air in the lines.
Sean
humming (it's on the frame rail under the driver),Wait a few minutes
do it again for a total of at least 3 times. The you good to go.
BTW : It's the same process when you change the fuel filters
for the removal of air in the lines.
Sean
#63
Fuel leak and Pressure spring kit.
I am a new to the diesel world, I found a fuel leak on my 06 F250 at the housing after noticing a fuel smell and low MPG. After reading thread and ordering spring kit online I was able to fix the problem following the instructions, not sure why but I was able to change the parts and new cover without removing anything. I cycled the key a couple of times and it started up. Thanks to everyone that contributed. It saved me a bunch of money.
#64
Turn the key to RUN,wait till you no longer hear the fuel pump
humming (it's on the frame rail under the driver),Wait a few minutes
do it again for a total of at least 3 times. The you good to go.
BTW : It's the same process when you change the fuel filters
for the removal of air in the lines.
Sean
humming (it's on the frame rail under the driver),Wait a few minutes
do it again for a total of at least 3 times. The you good to go.
BTW : It's the same process when you change the fuel filters
for the removal of air in the lines.
Sean
#65
#66
A very useful thing to have any time you remove a fuel line
is some med zip-ties. You put it on the line snug to keep
the nut from sliding away. Some thing else Rusty pointed out
is some shop rags around the base of the filter to catch
dropped small parts and catch any leaking fuel.
Sean
is some med zip-ties. You put it on the line snug to keep
the nut from sliding away. Some thing else Rusty pointed out
is some shop rags around the base of the filter to catch
dropped small parts and catch any leaking fuel.
Sean
#67
#68
#69
Hi,
I removed the hose. No biggie there. As for cleaning the
EGR valve hole I just use the shopvac and suck it out.
I bet you could also use a large bottle brush type thing
then shopvac it. Just don't brush the chucks too far into
the intake.My vac has a small hose wand that I used to get
in the small crevices.
Sean ;-drink
I removed the hose. No biggie there. As for cleaning the
EGR valve hole I just use the shopvac and suck it out.
I bet you could also use a large bottle brush type thing
then shopvac it. Just don't brush the chucks too far into
the intake.My vac has a small hose wand that I used to get
in the small crevices.
Sean ;-drink
#70
yeah, that was my thing. i didnt want to go in there scraping all that crap off and then having it call down into the engine. so i just cleaned the valve itself and then re installed it. i didnt put anything on the o rings cause i wasnt sure if putting on oil on the egr valves and then sticking it into the engine bay was good and then having all the soot, figured it was just gonna make it want to cake up even more. plus i didnt have any diesel oil on hand, just gas engine oil. ill know for next time cause we all know there will be one until i can get the money for the egr delete kit. ill just make it a habit when i do an oil change to clean the egr valve along with the fuel filter and coolant filter when i get around to getting that too.
#71
That little bit on engine oil so long as it's clean
won't matter if it is for a diesel or gas. All you are
doing is making it slip in and not hang-up and damage
the O-ring. Really any time your working with an O-ring
some oil is a good thing. If it should be dry the instructions
will say something about that. Most times.
Sean
won't matter if it is for a diesel or gas. All you are
doing is making it slip in and not hang-up and damage
the O-ring. Really any time your working with an O-ring
some oil is a good thing. If it should be dry the instructions
will say something about that. Most times.
Sean
#73
Posting to favorites
If you are on a Windows computer using Internet explorer, just click on the word favorites at the top of the screen. A drop Dow list will open and the first item at the top says "save as favorite". When you click that a box will open asking where you want to save at? If you just click save it will show up on the main list. There's a little check box that says "make new folder" put a check in the box and type in a name for the folder, I have one named automotive I keep all this stuff in but you can name it anything. When you want to find it later click favorite at the top of the screen scroll down to automotive (or what ever you named it) and click again. A list af any links you have saved will show up there.
#74
^^^^what he said^^^^. i wouldnt have tackled this job if i wouldnt have had all the answers to my questions. forum sites are some of the best inventions out there. i member i brought my 04 svt cobra to a dealer ship to get the belts changed and they ended up telling me they couldnt get the cage off. they told me they would use heat and if it damaged somethin in the process, i would have to pay to replace. i told em nay, dont worry about it. went on the internet searched around and i eventually came across svtperformance.com or something like that, been a while since ive been on there, and a guy had an awesome write up on how to remove the cage. and i changed the belts myself. no more squeaky belts and slipping belts.