Been there, done that AND I have the t-shirt!

 

"No, it is different. Much thicker consistency and it melts at a higher temperature. Typically it is a creamy white texture."

Well that figures and it also figures that the guy behind the counter told me it was dielectric grease and they didn't come with it. Handed me a tube and that's what I applied. Lesson learned, never trust a 50+ y/o man behind the parts counter at O'riellys with a pony tail! I'll source the right stuff next time I drive by. Runs GREAT though with that new ICM in. What a difference!

Pulled some more goodies off my bud's '95 Bronco yesteday to sweeten it up. Some dash parts, front grill and grill mount as well as all the front lights and housings, A/C pump to replace my siezed one, spare dizzy & coil as well as a frame mounted trailer hitch. She's cleanin' up real nice!

 

I had a similar problem with my 95 f150. It was running rough cold and stumbling at lower speed, also felt like starving for fuel or spark. I did all the usual checks, I did during the checks find the idle air sensors was bad but that did not solve the issue. also have the canister purge valve code 565 still happening and havent addressed that as of yet but its on the list. the fix for this 95 ended up being the icm. from 94-96 ford changed the ingnition system. on these models the pcm does all the work without the assist of any other components except of course sensor feeds. Part numbers for these trucks are not correct. the icm should be the black one not the grey one. I change mine out with a black one and with the exeption of the purge valve issue codes reader no says code 111 on continuous codes which is system pass. lot of work a searching and stumbled on this little factoid. truck now idles smooth and accelerates smooth. Hope this helps cause it sure made my day. now my next task is evp canister valve. goodluck to ya.

 

I'd find a pinout of the PCM and find the "Fuel Pump Enable" wire. Backprobe and see if the PCM is grounding with key on. If it is, you have a break in your wire between the PCM and relay. Like others have said, your old one looks like it shorted. I would find a pinout, check that you're getting power, ground, and ignition signal to the PCM before going further. Good luck!

 

You are replying to a ten year old thread. Almost everyone has done it at least once.

 

WHOOPS! But, but, Tempted5.0 did it first! lol Gonna have to watch out for that.

Nevermind, I must have had the wrong tab open when I replied. This was intended for another thread. FML

 

Hi! Got the dreaded 565 code. Did the inspection dance, ground dance and reseat connetctor dance. The solenoid reads 65 ohms. Outside the spec. There is a threshold for the voltage drop and the pcm thinks it's open. The connector terminals were not tight. Could wiggle it and make it go open. As these things age the wiring coverings can break down and rub together. These issues can be caught in a wiggle test but not always. Voltage bleeding on to another circuit can happen. So can ground or short (if you will.) but can bleed off enough current to drop the available voltage to another circuit. A good way to check is to unplug everything and see if any circuit has continuity to any other circuit that they are not supposed to have continuity with and check circuits that are supposed to have connections through the harness for opens. A break out tool is good for this. Opening a harness to search down a mechanical failure is a lot of work but a last resort if needed. I have done it several times. Replaced the solenoid, tightened the terminals and cleared the code. Good to go. Help yourself the most by making it a habit to inspect connections and clean grounds periodically.