Maxx-Lift coil spacers
#1
#2
Here's what I used on my 2007 E350:
(2) 3/4" x 8" Grade 8 Bolts w/SAE Course Threads
(12) 3/4" Grade 8 Flat Washers
(2) 3/4" Grade 8 Split Lock Washers
(2) 3/4" Grade 8 Locking Nuts
Red thread locker
The bolt goes in from the bottom with (1) flat washer.
Stack (4) flat washers and (1) split lock washer on top.
Add red thread locker.
Add the stainless extension that came with the kit & tighten.
Add the 2" spacer (throw the stock nylon coil platform in the spare parts box).
Add the stock flared coil retainer.
Stack (1) flat washer and the locking nut & tighten.
You'll probably need coil spring compressors to get the coils re-installed. Trust your own judgement on how many washers. You need to take up the thread slack and still be able to tighten the top locking nut against the spacer/retainer assembly. Alignment was achieved after purchasing 2.5 degee camber bushings.
(2) 3/4" x 8" Grade 8 Bolts w/SAE Course Threads
(12) 3/4" Grade 8 Flat Washers
(2) 3/4" Grade 8 Split Lock Washers
(2) 3/4" Grade 8 Locking Nuts
Red thread locker
The bolt goes in from the bottom with (1) flat washer.
Stack (4) flat washers and (1) split lock washer on top.
Add red thread locker.
Add the stainless extension that came with the kit & tighten.
Add the 2" spacer (throw the stock nylon coil platform in the spare parts box).
Add the stock flared coil retainer.
Stack (1) flat washer and the locking nut & tighten.
You'll probably need coil spring compressors to get the coils re-installed. Trust your own judgement on how many washers. You need to take up the thread slack and still be able to tighten the top locking nut against the spacer/retainer assembly. Alignment was achieved after purchasing 2.5 degee camber bushings.
#4
Nice job! Did it go back together without spring compressors?
Depending on the lift/jack equipment you're using, your aproach can be different. I completely removed my sway bar and worked from the front removing the coils as well. I had the advantage of using a drive-on hoist with on-board jacks to move the assembly up and down. Aligning the radius arm with the axle to install the new bolt, needs to be with the assembly fairly level, so getting the coils out of the way worked well for me.
The washer count issue is that not every grade 8 bolt is the same. Some overall length or thread length is different. The key is to use grade 8 and nothing less.
One side note. I forgot to do a final torque on the right front Jam Bolt during the alignment. I got a couple hunded miles down the road and felt the familiar clunk of "play" in the assembly. My drive was about to get real exciting! Fortunately I stoped and spotted the culpret. The new camber bushing had worked it's way up about 3/4", so I hammered it back in and went looking for an alignment shop. I was really lucky not to have ruined the upper ball joint, just the camber bushing.
Depending on the lift/jack equipment you're using, your aproach can be different. I completely removed my sway bar and worked from the front removing the coils as well. I had the advantage of using a drive-on hoist with on-board jacks to move the assembly up and down. Aligning the radius arm with the axle to install the new bolt, needs to be with the assembly fairly level, so getting the coils out of the way worked well for me.
The washer count issue is that not every grade 8 bolt is the same. Some overall length or thread length is different. The key is to use grade 8 and nothing less.
One side note. I forgot to do a final torque on the right front Jam Bolt during the alignment. I got a couple hunded miles down the road and felt the familiar clunk of "play" in the assembly. My drive was about to get real exciting! Fortunately I stoped and spotted the culpret. The new camber bushing had worked it's way up about 3/4", so I hammered it back in and went looking for an alignment shop. I was really lucky not to have ruined the upper ball joint, just the camber bushing.
#5
#6
Nice catch JWA! You've obviously been there. The sway bar wasn't completely re-installed in that photo.
I resisted replacing any bushings because this was just phase one! Sometime after New Years we're going to swap-out the entire front suspension with a 2012 unit which has all of the redesigned bushings, larger brakes, etc.
I will start a complete build thread soon which will include my performance, suspension, handling, & traction mods.
I resisted replacing any bushings because this was just phase one! Sometime after New Years we're going to swap-out the entire front suspension with a 2012 unit which has all of the redesigned bushings, larger brakes, etc.
I will start a complete build thread soon which will include my performance, suspension, handling, & traction mods.
#7
Ahhhhh okay John-----I do recall your front swap from another thread---just now though!
Oh yeah been there, done that on those bushings on two new-to-me E250's. First set were replaced with ProThane parts---not impossible but tougher than I bargained for. Second E250 had the same worn bushings so I opted instead for the Hellwig heavy duty front sway bar which eliminates the OEM mounting system altogether.
Those do jump out to anyone whose ever messed with them!
Oh yeah been there, done that on those bushings on two new-to-me E250's. First set were replaced with ProThane parts---not impossible but tougher than I bargained for. Second E250 had the same worn bushings so I opted instead for the Hellwig heavy duty front sway bar which eliminates the OEM mounting system altogether.
Those do jump out to anyone whose ever messed with them!
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I just had the same kit installed in my 03 e250. The guy who did the work contacted the maxx-lift tech line directly and they told him that yes, you just compress the spring and toss it right on top. The guy didn't need the nut adapter/extender things that are included with the kit for mine. He was uncertain about the procedure but their tech people said it was fine.
You get them from maxx-lift:
99 - 09 E250/E350 TRUCKS 2WD FRONT LEVELING KIT
I paid around $500 total for the kit, the installation, and then the alignment using the correct camber adjusters which were ordered by the shop at about $35 each. Like John, about 2.5-3 degrees corrected the camber to the correct setting.
You get them from maxx-lift:
99 - 09 E250/E350 TRUCKS 2WD FRONT LEVELING KIT
I paid around $500 total for the kit, the installation, and then the alignment using the correct camber adjusters which were ordered by the shop at about $35 each. Like John, about 2.5-3 degrees corrected the camber to the correct setting.