Factory spec. That as the WHOLE point of the write up

I used Factory lights
Factory harness and
Factory Locations

 

When I did my 88 many years back, I screwed up & positioned them wrong- the center one too far forward- From above they formed a "V"! I know better for my "new" 91...

Scott

 

I have a set I bought for my '89 F250 Supercab. They're just the Pacer ones that have the OEM style. My question is how do you go about laying out the roof on a truck that you can't get to the front of the roof from standing in the bed? Laying it out and trying to drill holes and fishing wires seems a bit tough on anything but a regular cab. I did them on my old '94 F150 but it was a regular cab and I could reach everywhere I needed either from the doors or from standing in the bed. Wondering if anyone has some tips to do this.

 

I always stand in the bed and lean...
Scott

 

Like you would on a reg cab.

From the side standing on a stool or ladder. Or stand in the door like you said. Cab length has NOTHING to do with it.

Also. Only a reg cab has a full inner metal roof. Supercabs and crewcabs only have about a 6" inner roof right along the windshield. Si if you remove the headliner you can fish the wires that way. But that is A LOT of work when the coat hanger and string is 20 times faster

 

Ok I'll have to reread your original post with the string. Does seem A LOT easier than dropping the headliner. I did drop it when I did my '94 and it was a pain. The Pacer kit comes with the not so trustworthy grounding screw instead of a dedicated ground wire for the whole set. I haven't even opened the package yet but if I recall with my set on the '94 each light had a small ground wire with an eyelet end on it that the screw would go through and ground to the metal roof. Would it be better to cut that eyelet off and run a main ground wire and tap each light into that and ground to one good source?

 

Got a link

 

Please REREAD it. And yes, pacer is junk

 

I just got a lead on lights and harness on an '85 F350 for $10. He's about an hour south of me. I'd have to remove the stuff myself. Is it difficult removing the harness? I'm not sure if the headliner is still mounted. Is there any trick to getting the harness out without damaging it? I assume unscrew lights from roof. Disconnect pigtails from sockets. Disconnect plug from behind driver side kick panel and start pulling from there. Do I need to remove the a-pillar cover to pull it through?

 

Brad I agree with you I have purchased a few things from LMC and have been very disappointed

 

An hour ride for $40 worth of used parts? Hardly worth it

 

Just installed a set of Clearance Lights. Used the Factory harness (was told by the dealer that they are no longer produced), and the Factory Pigtails using the Ford Part number from earlier in the post. Used the Truck Lite Lights as the factory ones were too expensive. #8 Stainless Screws the RTV on the Threads. Works like Factory. Took forever getting the lights marked out. Wish there was a good walk through video for the layout marking....Yes I saw the video on this thread.... My statement stands. Took me about 4 hours start to cleaned up.

 

I am doing this to my '95 F250 and have all the factory parts to do so,I work in parts dept. at a local Ford dealer and found the obsolete parts from other dealers. First I want to say thanks Diesel Brad for a excellent "How To" and I have read this through a few time but I would like to ask one question if I could to clarify my thinking on the distance measured back from the w/shield "The light is set back from the windshield trim 3 3/8" is this measured between the mldg and roof panel or at the end of the mldg where it meets the glass?........sorry if I don't understand that part if it is stated.....Thanks!!

 

Where the moulding meets the roof

 

Perfect!!...thanks for the info and again on the "how to".