starter turns engine but no magic

first occurrence: problems began three weeks ago directly after last fuel up, windshield wash. was not run out of nor super low on fuel. after about 30 minutes (and even with a somewhat low battery charge) it started as if normal.

second: a couple weeks ago i decided to try it at random, no start. several tries began to take their toll on the battery charge again, so i decided to recharge the battery. after a few hours on the charger it started as if normal.

now: after repeated tries on consecutive days during different times of the day it is consistent no-start. battery is fully (slow, even) recharged between attempts.

i opened the electrical box cover and everything looks normal. i checked the big fuses and they all have voltage on both test points. starter fluid sprayed into the air filter housing produces a near start. van acts like it is out of fuel.

now if this were my '72 i'd know exactly where to look and what to do, but i'm lost on this one and could use some helpful (e-series specific) hints at isolating and curing this aggravating condition. thanks in advance!!!

 

(checks breath)

van is still dead post

 

It sounds to me like there is indeed a fuel supply problem------your attempts so far reinforce that almost completely.

Try checking the fuel pump fuse and relay---they're known to occasionlly fail giving you your symptoms. If those haven't failed it might be the fuel pump itself or perhaps the fuel regulator too.

You're not doing your battery any favors draining it by repeated attempts to start it without first fixing the problem. You can also post this question in the sub forum that addresses your particular engine whether its a V8 or V10.

Modular V10 (6.8l) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

first off, thanks for your response

is there a legend somewhere that shows which fuse and relay go to what? wiring charts?

i found some wiring on top of the tank near the filler lines. i would assume it's the sender and pump wiring, my next strategy is to connect the multimeter to the fuel pump wires and look for voltage while cranking. i wish there was some diagnostic way to trigger the fuel pumps to run like on my Volvos!!! if i find voltage then it's time for a fuel pressure test. if not?

i'm not draining the battery much, typically 3 ten second attempts, 30 seconds apart. just making sure battery charge stays good.

and yes this is already crossposted in 5.4l modular forum, thanks again for the helpful tips!

 

My computer with loaded schematics has crashed otherwise I could copy and paste a diagram from model year 2000 E-Series which should be quite similar relative to fuse and relay locations.

Referring to my printed EVTM I do see fuse #17 (30 amp) and the relay in position K of the under hood fuse/relay box directly affect fuel supply.

BTW if you're the DIY type for such things go to eBay and find an appropriate EVTM for your van model and year----they should be plentiful and fairly cheap too.

HTH and best of luck too--update us if you think of it!

 

fuse #17? relay K??? i'll try counting etc. but yes, this is the sort of info i'm looking for!

if i cannot figure it out soon i am going to have to take it to the squealership. need it back and 100%, this is my 'bread and butter' van and it already cost me money and some reputation.

 

This is why the EVTM's are invaluable-------if you had one these numbers and locations would be immediately identifiable. Try this:




Adding if this van is your bread and butter something like the EVTM would seem invaluable for situations just like this.

HTH

 

the fuses were checked via DMM on the top test poiints, all have 12v on both legs. not sure on the relays, are any of the others directly swappable and/or unimportant for engine, temporarily for testing?

next i am headed to the wiring on top of the tank to check for voltage on the fuel pump wires while cranking. if i get a positive reading there then the fuel pump gets a big middle finger pointed at it, i don't think i have enough other cars' fuel tanks and gas cans to hold it all because i just filled it with 30something gallons FFFFFUUUUUUUuuuuuu

it was recommended to me i smack the bottom of the fuel tank a few times in case the pump is siezed, i think all it did was make a couple crescent wrench shaped dents

edit: collision detecting fuel shutoff dealybobber found and button pushed, it wasn't 'popped' and van still no start

edit: maxi-fuse verified good, relays J and K have the same part number, swapped and no change

 

in theory i should be able to jump the pump to run, like so.

if anyone knows a reason i should not do so (for diagnostic purposes only, see if pump runs) please speak up.

edit: e.g. does the wiring go directly to the pump?

 

how about this stragety. if i connect a small test lamp across the red sockets, will that determine if the fuel pump impulse arriving at the relay or not? does it float the ground or send +12???

 

fuel impulse confirmed at 85/86, when turning key from Off to Run i get a short blip of the light and when i turn it to Start i get a nice bright lamp that shuts off about a second after i release the key back to Run.

does this exclude everything but the fuel pump and wiring to and fro?

 

Just a thought.... If the engine turns over, tries to start then dies, check your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. It is located on the backside of the intake. Two screws hold it in place, easy to replace.
My 2001 E350 5.4 would start then die. After a while it would not idle unless I kept the rpm up with pedal pressure. I don't know if it would keep the engine from firing completely though. Cot of new IAC from O'Rielly's was about $58.

 

thanks for the input!! but, nothing, not even a hint of fire

 

I'm far from experienced or all that qualified to offer much advice for others but here's a shot.......

If the IAC has failed or become problematic the engine typically fires and runs although quite roughly and idles horribly, often times dying until RPM's are held about normal idle speed. This can be a common problem with the IAC's but doesn't sound like this is the case here.

It would appear to me stRanger you have power everywhere its requred so I'd assume the pump itself has failed. If you had a fuel pressure gauge this is easily checked at a port for this test on the fuel rail. I'm not sure if you can reach and disconnect the fuel pump from the harness and check for power there which would be the best test to eliminate interconnecting wiring as the culprit.

If it turns out to be the fuel pump check with Advance Auto parts---I bought an Airtex brand pump (OEM brand) for $180 recently---they have coupons and promotions from time to time. Stealerships want about $350 even with my small discount applied.

HTH

 

draining/dropping the tank tomorrow and begin checking things out there, i have a low pressure high volume lift pump that was replaced in my volvo that i can use to drain it. local autozone has the airtex in stock, yeee haw. /fingertwirl