1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck
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84 F250 460 flatbed restore project (WAS: New guy intro w/460 questions...Pics Added...)
Hey guys. Been browsing the forum for a couple weeks now searching and reading stickies and such. New to the forum and to Fords all together, but not new forums or trucks.
I have acquired a non-running (only with in the last year did it quit) '84 F-250 single cab long box 460 4x4 manual trans from my wife's uncle. It has been a farm truck since day one. Plan is to fix the mechanical issues and get it running and then nickle and dime it to a decent work/hunting truck.
When I got it I was told "One day it just quit on the highway and I said to hell with it and went to town and bought the new one." replaced it with a 2011 350 diesel.
My father-in-law and I have been working on it off and on for a couple weeks now and as of last night, finally got it to start. Seems to run well, but will not idle. will go into the mechanical side in a bit (posting from work, so I only have a few minutes)
Just thought I'd say hello from ND and start a thread for info and questions as I work my way through my first ford.
EDIT: ADDING PHOTOS OF THE PROJECT FOR CHITS AND GIGGLES
Last edited by ctubutis; 09-21-2012 at 12:20 AM.
Reason: Change title per OP request
-Carb dumping fuel all over the place
-rear tank does not work
-someone has done some serious "farmer wiring" under the hood. (actually found some old house wiring in it)
-no gauges working
-some but not all of the smog system has been dismantled/removed
-something heavy was dropped on top of bed rail bending it
-interior panels are pretty rough (mostly doors and panels by feet)
-front drivers fender dented (said a bull head-butted it)
-grill cracked in the middle (see above said bull)
I don't want to stick a ton of $$ into it, but the purchase price was right and it was said to be a good running reliable truck prior to it quitting last winter.
-Pulled bed (have a flatbed from a 79 that will be going on)
-replaced front and rear fuel pumps
-new plugs, wires, cap and rotor
-replaced rear tank (had too much rust and crap inside to salvage)
-bought a replacement fuel selector valve
-new accelerator pump in carb
What obviously needs to be done:
-figure out wiring. wiring has been farmer rigged. anyone know of an electronic wiring diagram for the 460?
-carb issues. adjusted front float but cant seem to stop the fuel from pouring out the back of the carb.where is a good place to buy a carb kit?
-figure out vacuum lines and what smog parts can be removed anyone know of an electronic vacuum diagram for the 460?
-mount bed (frames appear similar between the 79 and the 85)
I found the fuel pump wiring diagram I needed in there. The fuel selector valve that was in the truck was the wrong one and someone had cut the right one and its plug in connector out and replaced with wrong one, so my new one does not plug right in. Need to find that plug in.
But I didn't find a wiring diagram in there for the 460 motor.
I found vaccum diagram acronyms but not an actual diagram.
Just thought I'd check here before I go buy a manual. and if they are not here, maybe I will upload some when I get a manual.
Best thing you can do is attack things one system at a time.
For example, take the fuel system...
1. It sounds like you have 2 tanks...
2. OK, figure out if you have electric fuel pumps or mechanical...
3. Figure out if you have the Hot Fuel Handling system or not...
The answers to those three criteria determine the wiring of the fuel system.
Other wiring of other systems depends on what systems came installed in the truck, there is no one-size-fits-all wiring diagram.
Concerning the vacuum hoses, there should be a vacuum hose routing table on the radiator support under the hood, this will give you the vacuum hose connections for the engine controls & emissions but not for the HVAC.
The image you just posted looks like what I am looking for for the vacuum. There is not one on my support rad support. but that looks to be in the right direction.
I believe I have the fuel system straightened out already, just need to find a plug in for the selector valve to properly wire it in.
I'm trying to correct the cluster-fhawk of wiring under the hood now. Maybe some photos would be best to help ask questions. Should be fairly straight fwd as I believe this truck is extremely base model (no ac, tach, etc)
I'll keep digging. Thanks for the help so far.
EDIT: I do believe the truck had been repaired in the front at one time so I cant guarantee my rad support is original either.
I'm sorry if I'm confusing you with my initial comments, I think I was combing your post(s) with somebody else's in my mind but the main thing I was focusing on was the quest for wiring info, to which the answer is, "It depends."
Unfortunately, I won't consider anything to be straight-forward, there are tooooo many variables & differences to know anything for certain... things changed over the years during the manufacturing process, and, even in a single year, there can be a multitude of possibilities.
So, in that sense, pictures are a GREAT help, and the colors of the wires you're dealing with are also necessary.
There are some guys here with 460s and hopefully they'll stop by and offer assistance, too.
Thanks. I will get some pictures maybe tonight and post them tomorrow.
One more quick question. one of the fuel pumps (electric in tank) (which was a cheaper one ordered from rockauto.com) is about 10 times as loud as the expensive one ordered from the local hardware store. I have never heard a fuel pump that loud before.
Bad pump? or just a cheap one and should be fine? opinion?
I have no idea, although I've seen others out here talk about this scenario before.
I have an in-tank electric pump in my 1986 DD Tempo, I replaced it when the installed one burned out, it seems a bit louder than the Ford variant that was in it previously but it doesn't seem to be affecting its operation.
But something you ordered from a hardware store, that sounds like an external pump, correct? To my knowledge, all of Ford's pumps located at the tank area were in-tank pumps, not externally mounted on the frame or sumthin'.
Or, am I confused?
In any event, the best way I know to predict if a pump is going to fail (electrically) is to do a current draw on it.
If it's excessively loud, though, it might be a faulty bearing....
But I'd expect your OEM fuses to be blowing if the pump was drawing too much power, but, then again, there's no telling if your installation is fused, given your description of your farmer-rigged wiring....
Does it still put out an adequate amount of pressure & flow?
If it's excessively loud, though, it might be a faulty bearing; I'll bet there's no way to lubricate anything, I'll bet it's all sealed up....
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