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  #16  
Old 12-12-2011, 08:56 PM
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@Galm_3 WaxenSole0464
I can verify that my 1985 F-250 HD has nearly, if not the exact, sticker on it.
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  #17  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:12 PM
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Watching and subscribed Chris.
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:12 PM
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Ok guys. Bear with me here. I am new to older motors and vehicles but I’m learning….
I found the vacuum diagram and thank god it’s not as complicated and the one previously posted!!

Click the image to open in full size.

Here are a few questions:

VACUUM:

QUESTION 1: I think I have the vacuum lines figured out with the exception that I seem to be missing the ABV (Air Bypass Valve??) and the A/CL DV (air cleaner divert valve). Where should these items be?





QUESTION 2: The VDV’s (Name not in the acronym list) just basically be one way valves? The one in line to the EGR is working one way, but the one on the way to the TK (Throttle Kickdown???) does not blow through either way.
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  #19  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:13 PM
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ELECTRICAL:

QUESTION 3: This device (solenoid valve??) mounted to the top of the passenger side valve cover has three wires coming out of it. The one in my hand (red with orange dots) has a grey plastic connector about midway (right side of photo) and a female connector at the end (above my fingers). Where doe these connectors go?

Click the image to open in full size.








QUESTION 4: The coil (coil right?) has a brown w/ red strip and green wire to it. The brown w/ red stripe wire has had a hot jumper added to it (brown wire in photo). Why would this be done? Can I remove it? Looks not stock.

Click the image to open in full size.









QUESTION 5: The resister on top of the coil (right??) has this black wire coming out of it to a connector with a red w/ grey stripe wire that is cut off. Im pretty sure, based off of wire length where this goes but where should it go?

Click the image to open in full size.










QUESTION 6: This plug rear drivers side of top of motor has an orange with yellow dot wire to it and definitely a red with orange dot wire coming from it that has been cut. Does this connect to the red w/ orange dot wire in question 3? If not, where?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.










QUESTION 7: The above noted connector has been “jumpered” with a piece of wire. What should be plugged into it instead? And in this photo it sort of answers my question about where the broken wire should connect to, right? Then where does the wire in question 3 go?

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:13 PM
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CARBURATION
QUESTION 8: Here is the numbers on the side of the carb. What carb do I have?

Click the image to open in full size.




QUESTION 9: The fuel I mentioned that is pouring out of the top of the carb is coming out of the tall tube above the rear floats. Does that mean the float is not closing properly?

Click the image to open in full size.


I realize this is a lot of information and questions… hopefully I structured it well enough to spell it out clearly. Thanks for the help.
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  #21  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:19 PM
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Also.... I edited my first post and added up some pics of the truck for anyone's interest.
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  #22  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:44 PM
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About the only thing I can help with off the top of my head:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bump187 View Post
QUESTION 5: The resister on top of the coil (right??) has this black wire coming out of it to a connector with a red w/ grey stripe wire that is cut off. Im pretty sure, based off of wire length where this goes but where should it go?

Click the image to open in full size.
That's a condenser (capacitor) and not a resistor, its job is to remove radio noise caused by the ignition system.

No idea where the wire goes, though.



Quote:
QUESTION 6: This plug rear drivers side of top of motor has an orange with yellow dot wire to it and definitely a red with orange dot wire coming from it that has been cut. Does this connect to the red w/ orange dot wire in question 3? If not, where?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.










QUESTION 7: The above noted connector has been “jumpered” with a piece of wire. What should be plugged into it instead? And in this photo it sort of answers my question about where the broken wire should connect to, right? Then where does the wire in question 3 go?

Click the image to open in full size.
The red/yellow-hash is ignition-on power to various engine-control solenoids.
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bump187 View Post
QUESTION 9: The fuel I mentioned that is pouring out of the top of the carb is coming out of the tall tube above the rear floats. Does that mean the float is not closing properly?

Click the image to open in full size.
That tube is the air vent for the rear bowl, it shouldn't be gushing gasoline.

The float not closing could definitely cause that.
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  #24  
Old 12-12-2011, 11:58 PM
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If you can find an actual Ford EVTM (Electrical Vacuum Troubleshooting Manuals) you'll be able to let a 3 year old figure out your wiring issues. I do not know where to send you unless the local Dealer will let you take a look at one if they still have them. The best thing Ford did for their techs was make the best EVTM available to properly diagnose their own electrical systems.
Sometimes you can find them at the library as well.

I would definitely get a rebuild done on that carb.

It may be me but sometimes my experience makes me just start working on wires and looking at what doesnt look right and take it out. (If its a factory splice it belongs there) Clean up the mess than figure out what the issues are.
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  #25  
Old 12-13-2011, 04:00 AM
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X2 on the carb rebuild. If you take the numbers off of the tag on the carb to an auto parts pleace they can get you the exact (most of the time) rebuild kit. I would personally go with a holley kit with good seals myself.

One other thing that could be an issue. If you fuel pumps aren't factory spec, they could be providing too much pressure to the carburetor, holley and a few other companies make little regulators/gauges that you can put inline and see if you are getting too much pressure and regulate it if need be.

Do you have a "t" in the fuel line located close to the water pump just before the fuel line goes to the carb? If so excessive fuel pressure might not be an issue as most of the excess pressure will just send fuel back to the fuel tank.

Do you have emissions testing where you are? If not there are a few things you can do to increase performance without trying to source all of the emissions parts that you don't have.

I would not reccomend this for someone who has a full functioning emissions system. After the carb is rebuilt, the main things too hook up are the spark advance, and brake booster, after that check the fuel evaporative hoses are not rotted out and that you don't have an major vacuum leaks (hoses going straight to the manifold that are not hooked up) With these few things hooked up, you can adjust the timing and fuel mixture screws to get the engine running smooth and good. Then if you are so inclined go to fixing the emissions stuff one system at a time. I found that if you try to hook everything up at the same time, sometims there are just too many issues to get the engine running smooth. Going one at a time will enable you to see which parts of the system are messed up (by a decrease in performance).

Hope this helps. FYI, I can't see your pictures because the govt blocks certain web pic hosting site where I am in the mid east...
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  #26  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:32 AM
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Okay,
I'm going to try and answer your questions in another tab as I get confused scrolling up and down, then i lost all my reply into the ether...

1) The Air bypass Valve sends air from the A.I.R. pump into the side of the air cleaner when it isn't being pumped into the exhaust.
The air cleaner diverter selects heated or cool air and is in the snorkel of the air cleaner, the Bi Metal valve or 'thermal switch' is a small round metal disc mounted inside the air cleaner.

2)I don't have Air Conditioning but assume the throttle kicker and it's solenoid increase the idle when power is applied to the compressor clutch.

3)...See above.
I would assume it plugs into the A/C compressor

4)Someone tapped into the coil feed to get reduced voltage for the choke element.

5)That is a radio noise suppression Condensor.
It connects right to the hot side of the horse shoe coil clip.

6) Not sure. Don't have it.

7)...

8) 50004-1 is a Holley 4180 with hot air assist choke.
The carb was built in August of 1983.
There a small aluminum tag under a screw at the top front of your choke element.
This is the Motorcraft part number and can be decoded for more information.

9)The secondary float is stuck or the needle/seat is damaged.
Change these out for new parts in the kit I mentioned.

Hope this helps, and I covered everything but the air conditioning stuff that I don't have.
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  #27  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:33 AM
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Great! Thanks for the help guys!

The truck does not have AC.

Verifying questions:

1. Is this "A.I.R Pump" you speak of also know as a "Smog Pump?"

2. Is the Air bypass Valve and air cleaner divert valve needed? It appears it does not exist and I could just plug the outlet in the main vac for them, correct?


I plan on trying to get everything that is here now working and then work on what I can eliminate on the emissions system from there. We do not have emissions here in ND. Tuning will come after I get it running on its own.

Thanks again for the help. I'm sure its not over.
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  #28  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:51 AM
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When I rebuilt my 460 I totally removed the emissions stuff. We don't have emissions inspections here either. If we did, half the farmers wouldn't be able to drive.

1. Yes that is the smog pump. I mistakenly thought this was an A/C pump.

2. yes, that is correct.

If you plan on rebuilding the carb (which is sounds as though you should do) you can get rid of the EGR at that point. Once you get the screws out it just pops off the bottom.
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  #29  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:55 AM
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No need for block off plate or anything to remove the EGR?
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  #30  
Old 12-13-2011, 10:28 AM
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You can make one as there is an opening in the intake. What I did was tap the opening and plugged it. Or you can get a non-egr intake.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:28 AM
 
 
 
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