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  #1  
Old 12-12-2011, 07:48 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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tapping chain tensioner

I have a 2008 F-350 4x4,single wheel, long bed, crew with v-10, 225,000 miles. Took it to my mechanic to have a tapping/ticking diagnosed. I knew a stud was broke on the exhaust but was skepticle if that was the problem. After replacing all studs on drivers side, he said the tapping seemed to be coming from the timing chain tensioner and that I shouldn't be too worried about it. Could go another couple hundred thousand miles without a problem. He said the engine was a "non collision engine" and that it wouldn't bend the valves up if the chain let go. Not liking that answer one bit. Any suggestions? I don't have a stethescope to find the exact location of the noise (sounds like front of engine), I am assuming he did have one and this is how he located the noise. I have lost faith in my mechanic and may take it to Ford to get raped. Any suggestions before I do? Hate the noise and just want my truck diagnosed without the "I think" or "let's try this" attitude. Any good v10 mechanics in the Pgh area?
Also, I want to replace the muffler with a turbo style and lose the resonater. Should I run a true dual exhaust or is the added cost not worth the extra mileage I would get from just a muffler upgrade? I'm looking for more fuel mileage (aren't we all) and not concerned about performance. I still want it somewhat quiet for when I pull my camper a couple times a year with the family. Other than that, I just use the truck for short hauls. Summit has a cat back exhaust with strait thru muffler (glass pak). It doesn't increase the size of the pipe, so I figure just dumping the muffler would do the same without breaking the pocket. Truck will only see around 5,000 miles a year while I own it. Previous owner racked up all the miles.
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2011, 09:56 AM
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Johnny Langton Johnny Langton is offline
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Originally Posted by atzottola View Post
I have a 2008 F-350 4x4,single wheel, long bed, crew with v-10, 225,000 miles. Took it to my mechanic to have a tapping/ticking diagnosed. I knew a stud was broke on the exhaust but was skepticle if that was the problem. After replacing all studs on drivers side, he said the tapping seemed to be coming from the timing chain tensioner and that I shouldn't be too worried about it. Could go another couple hundred thousand miles without a problem. He said the engine was a "non collision engine" and that it wouldn't bend the valves up if the chain let go. Not liking that answer one bit. Any suggestions? I don't have a stethescope to find the exact location of the noise (sounds like front of engine), I am assuming he did have one and this is how he located the noise. I have lost faith in my mechanic and may take it to Ford to get raped. Any suggestions before I do? Hate the noise and just want my truck diagnosed without the "I think" or "let's try this" attitude. Any good v10 mechanics in the Pgh area?
Also, I want to replace the muffler with a turbo style and lose the resonater. Should I run a true dual exhaust or is the added cost not worth the extra mileage I would get from just a muffler upgrade? I'm looking for more fuel mileage (aren't we all) and not concerned about performance. I still want it somewhat quiet for when I pull my camper a couple times a year with the family. Other than that, I just use the truck for short hauls. Summit has a cat back exhaust with strait thru muffler (glass pak). It doesn't increase the size of the pipe, so I figure just dumping the muffler would do the same without breaking the pocket. Truck will only see around 5,000 miles a year while I own it. Previous owner racked up all the miles.
That mechanic is an idiot. Don't take as much as a weedeater back to him.
If the chain comes loose-you'll totally destroy every valve on that cylinder head, and possibly the valve guides and the pistons.
It could be a bad tensioner, or it could be a damaged/defective follower(rocker arm). Either pull the cam cover off yourself to inspect the parts, or find a new mechanic.
JL
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  #3  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:26 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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That was my feeling, I never heard of a situation like that where the valves wouldn't contact the pistons. I have rebuilt many small block Chevys over the years and Always felt that "Ford" was a four letter "F" word. Government motors has changed me. I love the truck and just want it right. Time is my problem. Also, he has done many stud replacements so I trusted him on that. I will research the timing cover project. I really wanted to just have it done and pay the bill. I hate it that mechanics can't seem to diagnose anything anymore. They just throw parts at it and hope it works.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by atzottola View Post
I hate it that mechanics can't seem to diagnose anything anymore. They just throw parts at it and hope it works.
That's 99+% of all mechanics anymore-even ASE "certified master" mechanics.
It's difficult to find anybody with real troubleshooting skills anymore.
JL
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2011, 07:04 PM
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what kind of noise/circumstances does ur motor make ??

my truck has recently started making a noise under certain revs/situations only and its only when driving, so i cant diagnose it by revving in teh driveway under the hood..

my truck has virtualy the same milage aswell but its a 03 2V motor (not sure if the 3V uses a totaly different valve train implementation.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:13 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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It pretty much taps all the time. Cold or hot. Idle or revving. Can't hear it from in the cab. Unable to tell without a stethescope where it is coming from. Seems more prominent on the drivers side front. I didn't put a lot of time into diagnosing because I just wanted it fixed and dropped it off. Doesn't seem to get any worse since I've owned it. Approx. 3,500 miles driven. Really sounds like a valve, but then again it doesn't. I'll probably try and check it this weekend and I'll keep you posted. If I take the valve cover off I still won't be able to see the tensioner, so we'll just have to see when I get in there.
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atzottola View Post
It pretty much taps all the time. Cold or hot. Idle or revving. Can't hear it from in the cab. Unable to tell without a stethescope where it is coming from. Seems more prominent on the drivers side front. I didn't put a lot of time into diagnosing because I just wanted it fixed and dropped it off. Doesn't seem to get any worse since I've owned it. Approx. 3,500 miles driven. Really sounds like a valve, but then again it doesn't. I'll probably try and check it this weekend and I'll keep you posted. If I take the valve cover off I still won't be able to see the tensioner, so we'll just have to see when I get in there.
If you pull the cam cover, you'll be able to see down into the front of the timing cover and whether the chain tensioner is tight, or if it's loose allowing the chain to slap.
JL
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:11 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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Never studied the engine, do I need to remove the valve cover to get the cam cover off? Will I need new gaskets? I read somewhere that the valve cover gaskets were reusable. Seems they would be pretty dried out after 225k miles even though the truck is only 3-4 years old.
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by atzottola View Post
Never studied the engine, do I need to remove the valve cover to get the cam cover off? Will I need new gaskets? I read somewhere that the valve cover gaskets were reusable. Seems they would be pretty dried out after 225k miles even though the truck is only 3-4 years old.
The cam cover IS the valve cover. Yes, the gaskets are reusable, and are solid nitrile rubber, so it's unlikely that they're dried/cracked. The only time I've ever replaced a set of cam cover or timing cover gasket is when i tore them taking the covers off.
JL
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:24 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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Thanks, You probably saved me a few bucks. I would have just bought new gaskets. These motors are so much more complicated than the small block chevs I'm used to working on. They look like a lawn mower engine compared to these. I guess that's why they made them for 40 years. They were simple and just worked. I do love the v10. it is actually my second one. The first was in a 1999 motorhome and it was like pushing a billboard down the road and it still knocked down 9.5 mpg's in western Pa mountain highways. Hoping I can squeak a little better mileage from this truck. Seems to average around 11 city/highway, 50/50, unloaded. Will be changing out the muffler/losing the resonator and adding a K&N filter. This truck will rarely even touch dirt so air filtering is not a concern.
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atzottola View Post
Thanks, You probably saved me a few bucks. I would have just bought new gaskets. These motors are so much more complicated than the small block chevs I'm used to working on. They look like a lawn mower engine compared to these. I guess that's why they made them for 40 years. They were simple and just worked. I do love the v10. it is actually my second one. The first was in a 1999 motorhome and it was like pushing a billboard down the road and it still knocked down 9.5 mpg's in western Pa mountain highways. Hoping I can squeak a little better mileage from this truck. Seems to average around 11 city/highway, 50/50, unloaded. Will be changing out the muffler/losing the resonator and adding a K&N filter. This truck will rarely even touch dirt so air filtering is not a concern.
Honestly, these engines are so much simpler than you think. Once you have the wiring and the fuel injection out of the way, you'll find that they're really simple to work on.
JL
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:36 AM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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I just need my legs to be 3 feet longer so I can reach it. I've had a few other newer engines apart and you are right, get the crap out of the way and it is still a basic engine. I just don't want to do it. Once I get started I'll be OK, it's just taking that first part off not knowing how far I may have to go, but I gotta get it done before it snows.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:09 AM
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Subscribed... Wondering what the real problem is...
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:42 AM
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Subscribed... Wondering what the real problem is...
Did you go back to the origin of the thread?
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:41 PM
atzottola atzottola is offline
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BooHoo, removed cam cover and found the problem. lifter roller seems to be seized up on drivers side second from the rear cylinder. Rocker is loose. Cam doesn't look bad but seems to have a slight flat spot on one side. I didn't turn the motor over to see it. it feels smooth and not all scarred up. Looks like I may button up the engine and take it to Ford to have it fixed. Any suggestions before I do? Any GOOD mechanics in the Pgh area that won't gouge me and know what they are doing? Looks like a mess taking the whole front of the engine off to replace cam and rocker. Any advise at this point would be appreciated.
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:41 PM
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