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  #1  
Old 12-11-2011, 03:51 PM
Sw1tchfoot Sw1tchfoot is offline
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Aftermarket Duraspark II modules

As you may know, the factory Duraspark II module retards the timing when cranking for improved starts. I have read many times here that the aftermarket modules do not have this feature. From what I have read, this setup is triggered by the white wire coming out of the module. However there are many aftermarket modules and they all have the white wire. Is there a way to check and see if it actually has the feature?

I have a no-name Autozone module, because my 28 year old module failed. It seems fine but I never got to use the original module so I have nothing to compare it to.

O-Reilly's site shows they can get Master Pro, BWD, BWD Select, Motorcraft, and AC Delco modules. Napa stocks their own "Mileage Plus" and "Echlin" modules. Do you think that the Motorcraft module is actually fully functional or is it just China crap now?
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:04 PM
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:26 PM
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I think it is just "Mexico crap" now.

When I first did my Duraspark conversion, I wanted a brand new module so I got one from Ford. This module had a slim profile and it didn't have any markings on it at all, aside from an engineering number stamped on it and numerous cooling fins. I tried running my original TFI ignition coil (1985 F150) with my new Duraspark ignition, but it fried the ignition module in about a week. Being away from home, I went to the local CarQuest store and bought a replacement ignition module for $65. The box said "Made in Mexico" and looked exactly like the one I bought from Ford.

Then I bought the correct Motorcraft coil that the Duraspark ignition used, and it had "Made in Mexico" stamped right under the Motorcraft name.

Three years later, I was at the junkyard one day, and I stumbled across an original MOTORCRAFT ignition module on a 1982 Ford Bronco. I grabbed it for $15, and compared it to my replacement CarQuest/Motorcraft module. The first thing I noticed is that the OEM module was quite a bit thicker and heavier than the later replacement modules. Best of all, I didn't see "Made in Mexico" anywhere on it.

Now, it could be that Ford simply changed the design of the module later, and the higher end aftermarket modules followed suit. And I never had any problems at all out of my CarQuest ignition module. But being **** about such things, I decided to clean up the OEM Motorcraft ignition module and use it instead and kept the CarQuest module as a spare.

Is there any difference, performance wise between the OEM Motorcraft module and the replacement Motorcraft and CarQuest ignition module? None that I could really tell. But I like the fact that the OEM ignition module is thicker and heavier, and the cool "MOTORCRAFT" name embossed on the cover and the ultra-cool "Duraspark - Tested Tough" with the two lightning bolts sticker on it really did it for me!
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:18 PM
Sw1tchfoot Sw1tchfoot is offline
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Thanks for the input. +rep
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:57 PM
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Sw1tchfoot.. I just posted something similar and asked for feedback. I bought the premium Duraspark from Napa made by Echlin. Two people responded saying it was probably the best replacement over the other crap out there. So far so good for me but it has only been a few days running it.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:23 PM
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I read that too, which sparked my curiosity since this has crossed my mind before. It seems that the Motorcraft and Napa modules may be okay. I have not seen anyone say a single good thing about any of the other ones.

With some more reading I belive I know how to check to see if they have the timing retard now. Since the start retard is triggered by the starter relay, (it gives the white wire power when cranking). I should be able to give the white wire 12v with the engine running; and the module should cut the timing back (10, 15, 20? degrees?).
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:45 PM
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thanks for the heads up Sw1tchfoot, I did not know that the Duraspack II retards the timing during start up. After I changed my 86 back to the Duraspark II I have had problems on occasion when I first try to start, it acts like the battery is weak then takes off fine. I will check into the white wire....
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:56 PM
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Spark retard testing


I believe the retard was only 2 deg when the white wire was powered.

It seems like this could be tested at idle. Power the red wire on the DS2 module straight from the battery to get it running and with the timing light on it, momentarily add 12 volts to the white wire while watching the timing marks/timing light.

You would have to get a 20 year old original Motorcraft DS2 module to get a base line testing info and to make sure you could see a timing change.

On my truck the red wire on the DS2 module plug has power in both START and RUN. The white wire had power only in START.

Napa TP40 modules are a top of the line DS2 module. Watch for these at the junk yard, they cost about $90 new.
Jim
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimsRebel View Post
I believe the retard was only 2 deg when the white wire was powered.

It seems like this could be tested at idle. Power the red wire on the DS2 module straight from the battery to get it running and with the timing light on it, momentarily add 12 volts to the white wire while watching the timing marks/timing light.

You would have to get a 20 year old original Motorcraft DS2 module to get a base line testing info and to make sure you could see a timing change.

On my truck the red wire on the DS2 module plug has power in both START and RUN. The white wire had power only in START.

Napa TP40 modules are a top of the line DS2 module. Watch for these at the junk yard, they cost about $90 new.
Jim
If I go through all this trouble and find out it's only 2 degrees i'm going to get out the sledgehammer....

I was at the Pick n' Pull and there were four 1980-1986 Ford trucks. One already had the module pulled, one had a Napa Echlin module, one had an AC delco module and the last one had the original module. I started to pull it and once I got it off I found tons of that goo coming out of it; so I didn't take it.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:02 PM
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I don't know about most of the aftermarket ones, but my 25 year old Motorcraft one failed and I didn't have a good spare. I went to AutoZone and got one of the Duralast lifetime ones.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:19 AM
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Gonna keep a eye on this thread, could be some info gained...lol
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:58 AM
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I haven't gotten around to testing this out yet.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LARIAT 85 View Post
When I first did my Duraspark conversion, I wanted a brand new module so I got one from Ford.

This module had a slim profile and it didn't have any markings on it at all, aside from an engineering number stamped on it and numerous cooling fins.
That's all any Motorcraft module has, ID engineering numbers. There are no Ford part numbers marked on parts after 1956.

I tried running my original TFI ignition coil (1985 F150) with my new Duraspark ignition, but it fried the ignition module in about a week. Being away from home,

I went to the local CarQuest store and bought a replacement ignition module for $65. The box said "Made in Mexico" and looked exactly like the one I bought from Ford.

Then I bought the correct Motorcraft coil that the Duraspark ignition used, and it had "Made in Mexico" stamped right under the Motorcraft name.

Three years later, I was at the junkyard one day, and I stumbled across an original MOTORCRAFT ignition module on a 1982 Ford Bronco.

I grabbed it for $15, and compared it to my replacement CarQuest/Motorcraft module. The first thing I noticed is that the OEM module was quite a bit thicker and heavier than the later replacement modules.

Best of all, I didn't see "Made in Mexico" anywhere on it.
You omitted one very important factor in your Dura/Spark module scenario:

The colored plastic square above where the wires feed out, the EZ way to ID Dura/Spark (or what Ford tech once called: Never/Spark!) modules

There are at least 5 different modules you coulda bought, so here's my guess what you did buy.

Since you removed the little charmer from a 1982 Bronco and you live in SC, I'm gonna assume the Bronco wasn't sold new in CA or in a state that has mountain peaks over 10,000 ft.

1U2Z-12A199-AA (replaced D6AZ-12A199-A, D8VZ-12A199-A & D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module-all w/a blue colored plastic square (Motorcraft DY-893).

Marked with ID engineering numbers: D6AE-12A199-A1A -A1B -A2A -A2B / D8VE-12A199-A1B -A1C -A2B -A2C

Applications: Myriad 1976/96 FoMoCo vehicles / Depending on the year: Sold new in CA...or not.

And btw: Some dealers buy cheap "knock-off" Motorcraft modules from parts jobbers, then sell them at parts counters. Are they genuine Ford/Motorcraft? Of course not.

And, btw part II: If you don't like Hecho en Mexico, you aren't gonna like Made in China, or India, or Brazil or lawd only knows where else FoMoCo has built new parts plants.

And, btw part III: Are you aware that most autoparts stores and the repro parts sellers alike are selling Made in China crap?
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
And btw: Some dealers buy modules from parts jobbers, then sell them at parts counters. Are they genuine Ford? Of course not.
Well, there you go. The one I bought new from the Ford dealer looked exactly like the one i got from CarQuest. Only Ford charged me quite a bit more than CarQuest.

The used genuine Ford Motorcraft module I got from the junkyard was much thicker and heavier than either of the others. Makes you wonder what Ford did to their original ignition modules to make them better and last longer than the lighter aftermarket (and some dishonest Ford dealers) modules.

All of these modules had the BLUE tab on them.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:26 PM
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I've got a new 1U2Z-12A199-AA in my truck right now. It starts with a 1/2 second ignition key engagement, and matches the performance of the Original module.

My, 1U2Z-12A199-AA, has a Modern Ford/Motorcraft sticker on it, it is lighter and has cooling fins at the back. Doesn't really match the original in looks very much. It came in a Ford/Motorcraft Box.

One thing to be aware of, there is a problem with the wiring colors of Replacement Motorcraft and Aftermarket replacement DS-II modules. The colors invert themselves at the DS-II connector.

Wire Color for original Factory wiring and Original Factory modules:

START CIRCUT: Red/Blue stripe. (Matches starter solenoid wire.)
RUN CIRCUT: White/Blue Stripe.

Wire Colors for Replacement Motorcraft and aftermarket modules

START CIRCUT: White
RUN CIRCUT: RED

Picture of Module... Ignore The MCU (Microcomputer Control Unit) above the ignition module.

Click the image to open in full size.

Picture of wires inverted in the connector between factory wiring and aftermarket or Replacement Motorcraft modules.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; 02-05-2012 at 03:18 PM. Reason: add new information
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:26 PM
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