Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Brake Guides
- How To Replace Brake Calipers
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
- How To Replace Brake Line
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Brake Guides
Brake Caliper Replacement-How to....Sorta..
#1
Brake Caliper Replacement-How to....Sorta..
Here's a picture tutorial, on how to replace your brake calipers on a F-150...
Here we go...
(Assuming you have a garage/flat ground to work on...)
#1)
Press in the Emergency Brake and jack the truck up....And ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, use jackstands.....Guys, I CANNOT, stress the importance of those 2 mundane pieces of equipment....They saved my *** tonight....Just so happened, I had them in place, and was needing about 1" extra room....Couple pumps of the jack....I was set.....Then it came...
A low creaking/groaning noise....And I started scrambling as fast as a 287lb man can, to clear the truck...Then...BAM....The truck came down, and the jackstand was there to catch it....My night woulda ended up VERY differently, if I hadn't invested the $25 for the set.....
In other words, and I hate to be like this...But if you don't use a jackstand, you, are in short, a freakin' *******...Not an idiot...They have self preservation instincts....But a *******....
#2)
Remove the tires/wheels are you've safely gotten the E brake set, and a set of jack stands under the truck...
#3)
Use a hammer and a chisel, etc...To push out the sets of pins/clips at the top and bottom of the caliper...
Here's the top one....And when hitting these, hit them, so as they will press in, and towards the other one...
And the bottom one...
#4)
After removing the top and bottom clips....
Then, firmly tap around on the caliper, until you can wiggle it free....(BE VERY CAREFUL, NOT TO HIT THE ROTOR...)
Also, at this time, before you pull the caliper off, loosen/remove the 15mm bolt holding the rubber hose on.....Also, don't let the caliper hang by the rubber line....
And then remove the inner brake pad...
#5-If replacing the rubber lines also, like I was....
Remove the clip, on the inside of the frame rail, where the hose's connector meets the hard brake lines...
#6)
Clean the 15mm bolt you removed previously EXTREMELY WELL.....And use the new copper bushings/washers as follows...
Pics are shown, with the new rubber line....
#7)
With the copper washer/bushings arranged as previously shown, put the new rubber hose on the caliper...(Or reattach the old hose to the new caliper, using the copper bushings that came in the calipers' hardware kit...
Now, at this point, all you have to do, is put the caliper back on, in the reverse order as taking it off....Also...Put the anti-rattle clip on the bottom on the INNER calipers...
And a side note....If doing BOTH calipers at the same time....MAKE SURE, the the bleeder screw, is ON THE TOP......
Also, the Driver's side rubber hose, has a T fitting at the top; The passenger side has only the female fitting...
And the finished product....
And don't forget to bleed the brakes!!!!!
Here we go...
(Assuming you have a garage/flat ground to work on...)
#1)
Press in the Emergency Brake and jack the truck up....And ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, use jackstands.....Guys, I CANNOT, stress the importance of those 2 mundane pieces of equipment....They saved my *** tonight....Just so happened, I had them in place, and was needing about 1" extra room....Couple pumps of the jack....I was set.....Then it came...
A low creaking/groaning noise....And I started scrambling as fast as a 287lb man can, to clear the truck...Then...BAM....The truck came down, and the jackstand was there to catch it....My night woulda ended up VERY differently, if I hadn't invested the $25 for the set.....
In other words, and I hate to be like this...But if you don't use a jackstand, you, are in short, a freakin' *******...Not an idiot...They have self preservation instincts....But a *******....
#2)
Remove the tires/wheels are you've safely gotten the E brake set, and a set of jack stands under the truck...
#3)
Use a hammer and a chisel, etc...To push out the sets of pins/clips at the top and bottom of the caliper...
Here's the top one....And when hitting these, hit them, so as they will press in, and towards the other one...
And the bottom one...
#4)
After removing the top and bottom clips....
Then, firmly tap around on the caliper, until you can wiggle it free....(BE VERY CAREFUL, NOT TO HIT THE ROTOR...)
Also, at this time, before you pull the caliper off, loosen/remove the 15mm bolt holding the rubber hose on.....Also, don't let the caliper hang by the rubber line....
And then remove the inner brake pad...
#5-If replacing the rubber lines also, like I was....
Remove the clip, on the inside of the frame rail, where the hose's connector meets the hard brake lines...
#6)
Clean the 15mm bolt you removed previously EXTREMELY WELL.....And use the new copper bushings/washers as follows...
Pics are shown, with the new rubber line....
#7)
With the copper washer/bushings arranged as previously shown, put the new rubber hose on the caliper...(Or reattach the old hose to the new caliper, using the copper bushings that came in the calipers' hardware kit...
Now, at this point, all you have to do, is put the caliper back on, in the reverse order as taking it off....Also...Put the anti-rattle clip on the bottom on the INNER calipers...
And a side note....If doing BOTH calipers at the same time....MAKE SURE, the the bleeder screw, is ON THE TOP......
Also, the Driver's side rubber hose, has a T fitting at the top; The passenger side has only the female fitting...
And the finished product....
And don't forget to bleed the brakes!!!!!
#2
#3
Good write up Wes! Those old calipers def looked like they needed replaced.
I know somewhere along the lines they swapped from that style caliper to the ones that have 2 bolts on the back side going to the knuckle. At least my 95 Bronco has that style, maybe its a 4wd thing.
I know somewhere along the lines they swapped from that style caliper to the ones that have 2 bolts on the back side going to the knuckle. At least my 95 Bronco has that style, maybe its a 4wd thing.
I loved that setup.....SOOOOOOO simple.....
#4
#5
I'd agree to that, if I coulda found a setup for $100.....And coulda simply spent the other $75 on the new calipers and a nice meal...lol
#6
I picked up the spindles at a yard for 25 for the pair ... came with rotors the guy just put on before he junked the truck. pulled them all apart, all new Timken bearings inside, so i repacked the bearings, bought new seals, and turned the rotors ever so slightly to get rid of the surface rust. the spindles are getting powdercoated Monday (another $40) then new ball joints, new calipers, and stainless braided hoses.
I'm spacing everything out because I'm trying to spread the cost over a few months, the ball joints and caliper aren't bad enough to cause damage, I'm just being picky, and I'm stalling hoping to get some drop beams for this truck ...
I'm spacing everything out because I'm trying to spread the cost over a few months, the ball joints and caliper aren't bad enough to cause damage, I'm just being picky, and I'm stalling hoping to get some drop beams for this truck ...
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Spindle swap 1986 to later models.
i picked up the spindles at a yard for 25 for the pair ... came with rotors the guy just put on before he junked the truck. pulled them all apart, all new Timken bearings inside, so i repacked the bearings, bought new seals, and turned the rotors ever so slightly to get rid of the surface rust. the spindles are getting powdercoated Monday (another $40) then new ball joints, new calipers, and stainless braided hoses.
I'm spacing everything out because i'm trying to spread the cost over a few months, the ball joints and caliper arent bad enough to cause damage, i'm just being picky, and i'm stalling hoping to get some drop beams for this truck ...
I'm spacing everything out because i'm trying to spread the cost over a few months, the ball joints and caliper arent bad enough to cause damage, i'm just being picky, and i'm stalling hoping to get some drop beams for this truck ...
I have a Australian assembled 1990 F150. This is equivalent to a USA 1986.
I have been reading your post about swapping spindles. Which later model spindles will bolt directly onto the 1986 truck.
Is the whole assembly, rotors.calipers etc.Interchangeable .
If so ,which year would you suggest for the best fit.
Regards
kiwimagic.
#10
Hi
I have a Australian assembled 1990 F150. This is equivalent to a USA 1986.
I have been reading your post about swapping spindles. Which later model spindles will bolt directly onto the 1986 truck.
Is the whole assembly, rotors.calipers etc.Interchangeable .
If so ,which year would you suggest for the best fit.
Regards
kiwimagic.
I have a Australian assembled 1990 F150. This is equivalent to a USA 1986.
I have been reading your post about swapping spindles. Which later model spindles will bolt directly onto the 1986 truck.
Is the whole assembly, rotors.calipers etc.Interchangeable .
If so ,which year would you suggest for the best fit.
Regards
kiwimagic.
The ideal spindles would be from a 94-96, and use the spindles, rotors, calipers, pads, and bearings. i have heard of guys who had 1980-1986 trucks swap the I beams and radius arms from a 1987-1996 F150 just to be able to use the 94-96 spindles.
I hope this helps you out.
#11
#12
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
You drive out the 2 piece retainer at the bottom of the caliper, the part with the two half round cutouts... see the marks where someone was beating on it with a chisel? Hit it right there driving it out. There I should have been a bolt right where the inner half circle is, is it broken off or did you already remove it?
#14
Unless you absolutely, positively know the brake hoses have been replaced, save yourself some grief & replace them. Rubber brake lines are a 6 year life span. They close up, rot, crack. Castrol makes a Low Moisture Absorption brake fluid which I recommend since brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Flush your brake fluid every 2 years & always bleed from the furthest to the closest. RR, LR, RF, LF (assuming USA).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
natedog37
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
10
01-27-2018 01:32 PM
mikeinri
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
06-29-2015 07:48 AM