Bonehead move. Moved battery from one vehicle after another without checking polarity..let the smoke out of the wires....fried alternator.
Learned two things...don't trust autozone & don't work in the dark

No fused in Engine Compart Fuse Block are blown
Replaced Alternator
Truck starts and runs
AMP light on
Amp meter reads about 9-10 amps
Radio doesnt work
Speedometer doesn't work
Tach works
Heater fan doesn't work
Dome lights are out
Read on some threads that there are FUSEABLE links.
Wiring Diagram I have shows:
Fusible Link A
Fusible Link B both between Pos post bat to 50 amp fuse in engine compart fuse box
Fusible link between Pos post battery to Alternator

Do i cut off the wiring cover to access the fusible links?
Which one do you think is blown?
Thanks

 

Most of the fusible links are right on the solenoid the pos. battery cable goes to on the fender. If the wires don't visibly look bad, try pulling them, if the link is broken they should stretch.

 

Fuse #8 then Fuse "S" then yellow fuse link at fender mounted relay. If fuse link was the cause you'd have more items not working.

Is that a complete list?

Blower motor on a different circuit, fuse #1 or #6 dependent on if truck has factory air or not. Fuse #1 with A/C.

Oh and it is 92 or newer right? Your comment Engine Compart Fuse Block suggest it is however haven't listed any specifics about your truck to go on/work with.

 

93 F150 4x4 with AC

None of the fuses in the fuse block are blown. There is a Diode in the fuse block. Any idea what that is for?

As far as I know, that is a complete list

 

replaced fuse under dash
Speedo, lights, radio all now work
AMP light still on
Hard to believe but AC compressor makes A LOT of noise as vary RPM
Battery loses power while driving about 3 miles

 

one of the wires to or from the alternator must have somting to do with it have a look there

 

Pull the alternator and take it to an auto parts store to be tested.. I'll guess the reverse hook up probably messed up the diode bridge..

 

I'd bout lay money on this....

 

That, or blew the electronic regulator out.

 

Most A/C compressor clutch coils have a voltage spike suppression diode in their circuit somewhere (on old GMs it used to be right at the connector to the clutch coil, don't know where it is yet on our Fords) - it's possible that this diode is now partially shorted out from the reverse system polarity, and it is causing the clutch coil to not have full voltage. I wish you good luck in sorting all of this out.

As an FYI to help prevent this kind of thing in the future, did you know that the positive post on a top post battery is larger than the negative one? If you find yourself having to open up one of the terminals a lot and cranking the other one down a lot when installing a battery, you'd better check what you're doing!