Serious 360 head scratching
#1
Serious 360 head scratching
Folks, I'm back, the 97 with a Cummins is done, and I picked up a 68 F-100 with a 360 FE. the plan is I'm gonna use the F-100 as a daily driver and use it to pull the 97 to the truck pulls. here's the problem, I want to stick with the FE for some later down the road rebuilding I have in mind and am starting to ammass parts. What I want to do is either convert it to a 390 for as cheap as possible as the blocks are the same, or even better stroke it out to a 410 like Mercury did in the 60's. Problem I'm running into is figuring out what piston to use. this is a budget build that will never see over 4500 or so, maybe 5000 once in a while so I see no reason why I can't get some of the parts at autozone, like the required 428 crank with it's 3.98" stroke (the 390 crank is within $50 of the same price), and think I can get away with using the factory heads (with a little at home cleanup) and a refurbed set of rods and stock replacement pistons (I think) problem is I can't figure out which piston to use and customs (or even Diamonds) are out of the budget, it should be noted I can get the machine work done for next to nothing by a buddy that does it for a living. As best I can tell Mercury used a 428 crank, 390 rod and a 390 piston stuffed into a 390 block, but when I did the math on it it seems all wrong. Does someone care to check if I did it right, deck height on the block is 10.17 3.98 stroke, 1.67 compression height, 6.49 rod for the 410. Any and all help is appreciated. thanks Y-all
#3
As I understand it, the 410 used a unique piston with a .100 higher pin hieght than a 390, and it had a small-ish dish to further reduce the comp ratio.
However, around 1968, Ford dusted off the 410 piston molds, and started stuffing these pistons into 390's to drop the CR into 7.5-8.0 range, rather than create new heads with massive combustion chambers.
This *should* make it possible to do exactly what you are wanting to do. Buy stock replacement 390 truck pistons with the ~1.67 pin height from any parts house, and use the 390 rods and 410/428 crank.
Just keep in mind, the stock 3.98 stroke crank also uses a special counterweight at the rear to balance the assembly. There are aftermarket 3.98 stroke cranks available that are fully balanced internally, so no counterweight is needed.
However, around 1968, Ford dusted off the 410 piston molds, and started stuffing these pistons into 390's to drop the CR into 7.5-8.0 range, rather than create new heads with massive combustion chambers.
This *should* make it possible to do exactly what you are wanting to do. Buy stock replacement 390 truck pistons with the ~1.67 pin height from any parts house, and use the 390 rods and 410/428 crank.
Just keep in mind, the stock 3.98 stroke crank also uses a special counterweight at the rear to balance the assembly. There are aftermarket 3.98 stroke cranks available that are fully balanced internally, so no counterweight is needed.
#4
Just to clear things up a bit the stock 428 flexplate or flywheel will have the counterweight not the crankshaft. This for stock external balance only.
#5
At least I did mention the need for the special counterweight.......
#6
#7
Excuse my confusion, but that doesn't really clear anything up for me.....who was talking about a 428?
Anyways, are you saying that if you get a 428 crank you need a 428 flywheel and flexplate? I thought the 360/390 parts would sawp over...
And which has the counterweight - the flex plate or the flywheel?
Actually, you said the stock crank HAD the counterweight and that you would NOT need a counterweight with an aftermarket crank...
So either way you cut it, you don't need a counterweight...or do you??
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#8
Excuse my confusion, but that doesn't really clear anything up for me.....who was talking about a 428?
Anyways, are you saying that if you get a 428 crank you need a 428 flywheel and flexplate? I thought the 360/390 parts would sawp over...
And which has the counterweight - the flex plate or the flywheel?
Actually, you said the stock crank HAD the counterweight and that you would NOT need a counterweight with an aftermarket crank...
So either way you cut it, you don't need a counterweight...or do you??
Anyways, are you saying that if you get a 428 crank you need a 428 flywheel and flexplate? I thought the 360/390 parts would sawp over...
And which has the counterweight - the flex plate or the flywheel?
Actually, you said the stock crank HAD the counterweight and that you would NOT need a counterweight with an aftermarket crank...
So either way you cut it, you don't need a counterweight...or do you??
Most aftermarket cranks (everyone I have ever seen) are internally balanced, so a regular 360/390 flywheel/flexplate can be used.
#9
For a 410, you need ~1.66 pin height, or the pistons will stick out the top of the bore. The stroke was increased .200 from that of a 390, so the piston pin was moved up .100 (1/2 of .200) since the rods are the same.
#10
FordFE has the details you need:
FordFE Forum Faqs
Probe has the pistons you need:
Probe Industries - High Quality Forged Pistons, Shaft Rockers, Main Girdles, Stud Girdles, Engine Kits, Crankshafts and Connecting Rods for Buick, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Sport Compact Applications. - 866-718-6267
They have 2-3 different types with the proper comp height, they are only 4.080 tho, so It looks like a one time shot.
Of course when you start honestly crunching the numbers, by the time you buy pistons, the crankshaft, the rods, rings, bearings, etc etc etc. Add in the money for a 428/410 flywheel, and the rebuild of any parts (like the rods) and you end up within a few hundred dollars of a 445 stroker kit.
BarryR had them on sale a lil while back for $1700 with everything (and it is already balanced).
If it was me, I'd be seriously considering that route.... I don't think I'd ever bother to build a 416 when I can get 30 cubes more for near the same money.
good luck whatever you choose!
Drew
FordFE Forum Faqs
Probe has the pistons you need:
Probe Industries - High Quality Forged Pistons, Shaft Rockers, Main Girdles, Stud Girdles, Engine Kits, Crankshafts and Connecting Rods for Buick, Chevy, Ford, Chrysler, Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Sport Compact Applications. - 866-718-6267
They have 2-3 different types with the proper comp height, they are only 4.080 tho, so It looks like a one time shot.
Of course when you start honestly crunching the numbers, by the time you buy pistons, the crankshaft, the rods, rings, bearings, etc etc etc. Add in the money for a 428/410 flywheel, and the rebuild of any parts (like the rods) and you end up within a few hundred dollars of a 445 stroker kit.
BarryR had them on sale a lil while back for $1700 with everything (and it is already balanced).
If it was me, I'd be seriously considering that route.... I don't think I'd ever bother to build a 416 when I can get 30 cubes more for near the same money.
good luck whatever you choose!
Drew
#11
#13
Why not a 427 crank? It's balanced internally so you can use your flexplate, correct?
As far as a 445 stroker kit, great price, but would you not have to notch the bottom of your cylinders for clearance? I was looking at all this for my 289 in my Cougar and finally decided on a crate engine from Ford Racing.
As far as a 445 stroker kit, great price, but would you not have to notch the bottom of your cylinders for clearance? I was looking at all this for my 289 in my Cougar and finally decided on a crate engine from Ford Racing.
#14
Why not a 427 crank? It's balanced internally so you can use your flexplate, correct?
As far as a 445 stroker kit, great price, but would you not have to notch the bottom of your cylinders for clearance? I was looking at all this for my 289 in my Cougar and finally decided on a crate engine from Ford Racing.
As far as a 445 stroker kit, great price, but would you not have to notch the bottom of your cylinders for clearance? I was looking at all this for my 289 in my Cougar and finally decided on a crate engine from Ford Racing.
As I understand it, the 445 kit does not require extensive mods to the block in base form. From the survival FE stroker tech page:
Clearance Grinding
Unlike the common kits for small blocks, these require no clearance work in
factory blocks. Aftermarket block sometimes need a very small amount of
grinding in #2 and #4 main bulkheads - 10 minutes work at the most.
Unlike the common kits for small blocks, these require no clearance work in
factory blocks. Aftermarket block sometimes need a very small amount of
grinding in #2 and #4 main bulkheads - 10 minutes work at the most.
#15
Other than that sounds like all the bases are covered.
I was in this same situation. IMO it's not worth it to build a 416 when there is such a small difference in price for a 445. I say either rebuild as a 390 for considerably less, or stroke to 445. That is unless you just have a killer deal on a 428 rotating assembly. No clearancing needs to be done for the 4.25 stroke.