F1 w/ 351W, Toy PS, exh manifold solution
#1
F1 w/ 351W, Toy PS, exh manifold solution
Took a while, but after searching in this forum, some ideas developed about what factory manifold could work on my 351W powered, Toyota Power Steering equipped F1 . Turns out that in 91, 92, & 93, Ford put some very interesting tubular manifolds on the T Birds and the Cougars with the 302 HO motor. This I learned from a close friend that actually had one of the T Birds back a few years ago.
I found one set in Spokane .... after looking in all the local wrecking yards ... and thankfully these were in pristine condition. I will do some modifications to both sides, with just a cut and reweld on the PS one to re-angle it some, and for the DS one, I'll add a bend to recurve the outlet further back and lower. Not much really to do, and in the end not much money spent ($60).
Not a bad solution to how to clear the Toyota steering. BTW ... I built my own mount for the box, and do have the box as tight to the frame as is possible.
RG in Spokane, WA
I found one set in Spokane .... after looking in all the local wrecking yards ... and thankfully these were in pristine condition. I will do some modifications to both sides, with just a cut and reweld on the PS one to re-angle it some, and for the DS one, I'll add a bend to recurve the outlet further back and lower. Not much really to do, and in the end not much money spent ($60).
Not a bad solution to how to clear the Toyota steering. BTW ... I built my own mount for the box, and do have the box as tight to the frame as is possible.
RG in Spokane, WA
#2
Those look like they will work out nice! I was trying to pull a set of those at my local salvage yard and couldn't get to the bolts with the tools I had with me. I went back the weekend later and the car was freakin gone....
They look a little restrictive at the head, but I wasn't doing anything besides stock motor anyway. My setup is different than yours though. Cool! I will be following along!
They look a little restrictive at the head, but I wasn't doing anything besides stock motor anyway. My setup is different than yours though. Cool! I will be following along!
#3
Nice work!!
Those are probably stainless steel (maybe 303???). When you do your cuts and welds...make sure you use the right alloy for the filler rod.
I think I've forgotton more than I currently know, but there are a couple of chemical tests that you can do on a small sample with nitric acid to see what alloy it is (don't do a chemical test on a part that you plan to use!). A magnet test is marginal because the high temps from exhaust can change the internal structure of the metal...so if a magnet sticks strongly...mild steel...not at all...stainless....weakly....probably stainless that has been really hot. If you weld with a mild steel filler rod, it'll corrode much faster than the stainless & you'll get cracks.
They look just like the exhausts on most small airplanes, so maybe when you're ready to weld...take a trip to the local air field to find the guy with a TIG welder and and the right stainless filler rod.
Those really look nice!!
Dan
Those are probably stainless steel (maybe 303???). When you do your cuts and welds...make sure you use the right alloy for the filler rod.
I think I've forgotton more than I currently know, but there are a couple of chemical tests that you can do on a small sample with nitric acid to see what alloy it is (don't do a chemical test on a part that you plan to use!). A magnet test is marginal because the high temps from exhaust can change the internal structure of the metal...so if a magnet sticks strongly...mild steel...not at all...stainless....weakly....probably stainless that has been really hot. If you weld with a mild steel filler rod, it'll corrode much faster than the stainless & you'll get cracks.
They look just like the exhausts on most small airplanes, so maybe when you're ready to weld...take a trip to the local air field to find the guy with a TIG welder and and the right stainless filler rod.
Those really look nice!!
Dan
#4
Nice work!!
Those are probably stainless steel (maybe 303???). When you do your cuts and welds...make sure you use the right alloy for the filler rod.
I think I've forgotton more than I currently know, but there are a couple of chemical tests that you can do on a small sample with nitric acid to see what alloy it is (don't do a chemical test on a part that you plan to use!). A magnet test is marginal because the high temps from exhaust can change the internal structure of the metal...so if a magnet sticks strongly...mild steel...not at all...stainless....weakly....probably stainless that has been really hot. If you weld with a mild steel filler rod, it'll corrode much faster than the stainless & you'll get cracks.
They look just like the exhausts on most small airplanes, so maybe when you're ready to weld...take a trip to the local air field to find the guy with a TIG welder and and the right stainless filler rod.
Those really look nice!!
Dan
Those are probably stainless steel (maybe 303???). When you do your cuts and welds...make sure you use the right alloy for the filler rod.
I think I've forgotton more than I currently know, but there are a couple of chemical tests that you can do on a small sample with nitric acid to see what alloy it is (don't do a chemical test on a part that you plan to use!). A magnet test is marginal because the high temps from exhaust can change the internal structure of the metal...so if a magnet sticks strongly...mild steel...not at all...stainless....weakly....probably stainless that has been really hot. If you weld with a mild steel filler rod, it'll corrode much faster than the stainless & you'll get cracks.
They look just like the exhausts on most small airplanes, so maybe when you're ready to weld...take a trip to the local air field to find the guy with a TIG welder and and the right stainless filler rod.
Those really look nice!!
Dan
#5
Even stainless gets that patina when subjected to exhaust temperatures. Coming out of the head, the exhaust gas temp (EGT) is probably around 1200F at times. Things cool off quickly as it goes down the pipe. Mild steel wouldn't last long in that area.
By the way...Jeff...I still owe you some radiator hose part numbers.
Dan
By the way...Jeff...I still owe you some radiator hose part numbers.
Dan
#6
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#8
Even stainless gets that patina when subjected to exhaust temperatures. Coming out of the head, the exhaust gas temp (EGT) is probably around 1200F at times. Things cool off quickly as it goes down the pipe. Mild steel wouldn't last long in that area.
By the way...Jeff...I still owe you some radiator hose part numbers.
Dan
By the way...Jeff...I still owe you some radiator hose part numbers.
Dan
No rush and when the time comes for me to be able to worry about it. Well I will figure it out just like everybody else, if You forget like I do! Thanks!
#9
Dan,
Thanks for the ideas on stainless. I figured these were likely stainless and will do the testing to be sure about the version. I have the good fortune to have a close friend that is an absolute expert on stainless. He taught stainless welding at a local community college, and has done such work in industry since 1965. Still welds like an artist too. I will be asking his help to identify this material, and with my own TIG I'll do the welds. Been TIG welding for 20 years myself, so that part doesn't bother me. Just needed the advise on the identification of the stainless. Thanks again!!!
Another hint too that these are likely stainless is the welds already there. They tend to look like caulking beads almost. Smooth and no porosity at all.
These manifolds are not hi performance compared to something like Hooker or others, but for a shop truck, they are certainly better than the cast ones, especially when you consider how good the basic fit is. I'm such a tightwad, I just can't bring myself to pay for high dollar custom headers.
I've heard that the Lincoln versions are even better for fit, but I haven't been able to locate any of those from the early 90's at all.
Mike, nice to know a fellow northwestener is on the forum. Been through La Pine a number of times .... beautiful country there!!!
RG in Spokane
Thanks for the ideas on stainless. I figured these were likely stainless and will do the testing to be sure about the version. I have the good fortune to have a close friend that is an absolute expert on stainless. He taught stainless welding at a local community college, and has done such work in industry since 1965. Still welds like an artist too. I will be asking his help to identify this material, and with my own TIG I'll do the welds. Been TIG welding for 20 years myself, so that part doesn't bother me. Just needed the advise on the identification of the stainless. Thanks again!!!
Another hint too that these are likely stainless is the welds already there. They tend to look like caulking beads almost. Smooth and no porosity at all.
These manifolds are not hi performance compared to something like Hooker or others, but for a shop truck, they are certainly better than the cast ones, especially when you consider how good the basic fit is. I'm such a tightwad, I just can't bring myself to pay for high dollar custom headers.
I've heard that the Lincoln versions are even better for fit, but I haven't been able to locate any of those from the early 90's at all.
Mike, nice to know a fellow northwestener is on the forum. Been through La Pine a number of times .... beautiful country there!!!
RG in Spokane
#10
Crap! earlier I mentioned that I lost a set to china! they were actually on o Lincoln. I am not sure but I think it was a '92 Towncar. And I am with ya on the being tight! My whole project is about using as much salvage yard parts as possible, but I won't be buying brake calipers or pads there. Now I wish I had followed through on those manifolds.....ya snooze, ya lose..
I have a real mutt being built. (see signature) no Ch**y stuff in it yet, but not done yet either! Still need an electric fan for the radiator...
I have a real mutt being built. (see signature) no Ch**y stuff in it yet, but not done yet either! Still need an electric fan for the radiator...
#11
Dude, I know about where you live. If I find out you put Chubby parts on that truck, I'll sneak in your room at midnight, shave your head, and draw a goatee on your face while you sleep!
#12
I would rather you draw some hair and color the goatee...
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