I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30. I can't find replacement parts searching on my own. Any useful hint Enthusiasts?:

 

Search the escape forum for 'hatch motor' for pertinent problems and solutions.
tom

 

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Did you check the fuse?
According to a pdf owner's manual for the 2009 Escape, there's a liftgate latch fuse in the power distribution box under the hood, position #7 (15A) .... (note: not the fuse box inside the passenger cabin but the one in the engine compartment).

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To: martin_csr
Senior User

Thanks for the suggestion! I verified continuity with my voltmeter ohm-meter. The latch solenoid is been actuated. It just don't go all the way for the door to open. The solenoid either lost strenght or pull. Seems that replacent is the appropriate measure.

 

You might find that the linkage or mechanism that the lock solenoid operates is gummed up and needs to be cleaned and lubricated. You have to remove the inner panel for access, so you might want to try that before replacement.
Someone here or on the escape-city web site found a 'generic' replacement hatch motor/solenoid for quite a bit less than the OEM on the web. I think they had to use crimp on unions to join the new wires to the old, but had little difficulty making it work. I think that door lock motors have become rather generic so finding one that fits and works should be readily done.
tom

 

Will try cleanning and lubrication first. If it doesn't work will try to find the lowest cost replacement part. I appreciate your reply!

 

It finally died. I tried to remove the electrical connector to remove the motor appropriately without success. The fixed connectors broke. Now I really need the hatch assembly OEM by KIEKERT in Germany. The part number over the plastic shield reads PA6-GF30. So far I have no success over the internet. Any enthusiast knows the FORD code for the part? Your prompt reply is appreciated. Perhaps they also fabricate the part in Mexico.

 

You can get a 'pigtail' if the connector end on the wires is broken. OR, you can get a replacement lock motor/activator for ~$20 or less, complete with connector, and pigtail wires trailing out of the new unit.
Why go with the OEM unit when aftermarket are SIGNIFICANTLY less in price, and equal in quality? If the connector on the motor has gone bad, you can still keep it 'factory' by obtaining a boneyard replacement.
Lock motors are very generic, just needing wires to run them, connection to the body and rigging of linkage to the lock to be operated. This is not rocket surgery nor brain science...
Your description leaves me pondering exactly what broke, and what you are trying to replace. You mention motor, wires, and shield. What broke?
tom

 

When removing the motor the connector pins that enter the motor bended badly. I could not remove the contactor assembly where you connect the cable running down the window. Eventually boths pins broke.

Some how I greased the motor through a small bore hole at the bottom of the motor casing. Somehow the jerk is to soft to open the rear door. I think is time to buy the latch motor KIEKERT PA6-GF30. I don't care if it costs $20.00 I am getting tire of manually opening the door after opening the window and using my hand to release the latch.

Any site where to buy it? Is there a Ford part number for this?

 

You may be able to find what you need by going through these diagrams and matching up the item number, beyond that, go to the dealer or JY as mentioned before.

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...up=LIFT%20GATE

 

I certainly appreciate your concern and assistance! Will look into it.

 

I have a 2010 with this same issue. Still looking for the part. Can't find it at the parts stores so I tried fordparts.com and couldn't find it there either. This is an old thread so Im guessing you had some luck and was hoping you could point me in the right direction. Im hoping to find the same part and not have to mess with any wiring. All my connectors are fine and I would love to be able to find one that I can just plug in to my existing connectors and screw it into place and be done.

 

The hatch release for the 2009-2012 (might include 2008 too, don't know for sure) is a totally different setup than the early Escape years. The 2009-2012 has an integrated latch and motor assembly. No link rods or anything like that. It is one assembly, no piece-parts available.

Our 2010 stated to get slow and weak, and sometimes could not get it open. Once I got it open, I tried lubricating it, etc. Nope. Problem is a defective motor.

I found it at a Ford dealer I use over internet that is in my state, the online TradeMotion catalog path was:
Collision Catalog>2010>Ford Escape>Body Hardware>Lift Gate>Lock & Hardware>Latch. This is on the order sheet I printed out, I'm not doing it from memory

I called them up just to be sure that I would be getting the part I needed, before I hit Buy. It was correct.

The part number for the NEW one was: 9L8Z7843150B

Back in January of 2013 it was $89.70 + tax + shipping, probably more now.

The three? four? screws that mount the assembly onto the hatch lid were some of the tightest screws I have ever had to undo in my life! IIRC, I had a new hex-drive Philips bit into a nut driver, and while pressing in with all my might, used a adjustable wrench to turn the hex shaft of the bit. My drill/driver wouldn't do it.

 

Thank you I will try this part number. Originally the door would only open after we had been driving for a while and with it winter in Michigan we thought it was frozen. Eventually we realized it wasn't frozen and was hoping the mechanism just needed cleaned/greased. I pulled that panel off and had my husband clean and grease it all but that didnt work. He plugged it in and messed with it realizing the motor was weak but the part number on the motor casing I guess you would call it wasn't showing up anywhere. Such a hassle. I just want my freaking door to open again. My husband said these were lock tights which is why they are so tough. They were certainly tough though lol.

 

I just bought a 2009 Escape XLT, 50K on the odometer on Tuesday this week, with the same problem - the part number given in the post above (9L8Z7843150B) is correct, it was $130.15 at my local Ford dealership and is also widely available online for less, though shipping and waiting would be involved.

It looks to be a VERY simple replacement by the way. Remove the cover panel, lift the tailgate however you can - I use a flat blade screwdriver to jimmy the release bar to the right - and unplug the two plugs going into the device. there are three torx screws that attach it to the liftgate. I will use a 1/4" drive socket to remove them. Replace the part, plug it in, replace the cover panel... Done.

My used car dealer is currently correcting a radio stack/display panel issue, so I can't tell you that I have succeeded. The part is sitting in my garage.

My radio/CD player dash controls do nothing, the top center info panel is blank, though the steering wheel controls for volume and seek 'seem' to function (All I get are Spanish stations???) Thankfully it is up to THEM to make it right, admittedly it is a Royal PIA to buy a new to me rig and end up driving a rental car on their dime instead.

My first post here by the way, but I plan on lurking and contributing when I can from now on.