Well I am a new owner of a 2001 Sport Trac. NOT my first Ford BUT my first Ford in 16 Years (prev. owned: 1988 Mustang, 1997 Explorer Eddie Bauer, 1999 Windstar - at least I think it was a '99, 2001 Escape).


I am a computer geek and tend to break things non-computer. Since this truck was relatively cheap, I have decided that I probably can no do any more damage than it already has (except I did break the EGR Pressure Sensor when I checked to see if the hoses were brittle.....yep, the two hoses and both tubes on the sensor sure were brittle!!).


SO, I have owned this vehicle for 3 weeks, bought knowing it needed things so here goes:




My issue is the truck idles rough. It did when I first bought it and the CEL was on. I promptly replace the ignition coil seeing how it was the ORIGINAL. Engine ran smooth and the CEL cleared by itself.


Now today it started to run really rough and the CEL came on. Got it home and discovered codes P0304 & P0325. the p0304 said cyl 4. So I double checked the wire for damage (none apparent) removed and reseated from ignition coil and plug. Still runs rough and hesitates (probably the misfires) when I give it gas.


Listed below are the things I have done already and the things I think I need to do. Would like opinions on my next step to smooth the engine.


Thanks,


James












MORE INFO:


I bought this ST for $800.00 and it has 173k. I have fixed:


1. The a/c (was blowing cold then shut off - ordered shim kit ($1.99) for clutch but didn't need, instead all I had to do was remove the existing shim and put back on and it was perfect .020 spacing!!).


2. Replaced EGR Pressure Sensor $24.00. Replaced hose for same $10.00.


3. Fixed Cruise Control by replacing the Cruise Control Cutout Switch $16.00.


4. Disconnected the glovebox light since it won't go out.


My to do list remains:

1. Replace EGR Valve as the old one is rusted and looks really bad. $36.00.


2. Replace the Spark Pugs and Wires $100.00 (MotorCraft all the way).


3. Replace the driver side seat cushion and the broken recline handle. $????


4. Replace the light bulb behind the fuel gauge (and the other six bulbs while I have it apart $14.00.


5. Tighten the gear shifter under the dash as the two screws are loose $no cost.


6. Get truck repainted $500 3 year paint job as this will not be a daily driver.

 

Do a spark check. Remove the wire from plug #4 and connect it it to a spare plug or a spark tester and check you have a good spark. Next remove the other end of the wire from the coil pack and measure the internal resistance with a multimeter. After you've eliminated the wire and coil as source of the problem remove the spark plug from the engine and check it. Bad plugs can also be caused by a fuel problem.

Fuel check. Check fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail. You can borrow the tool at most parts chains. If pressure is too low or bleeds off check the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum gauge. Look/smell for fuel leaks around the fuel rail and where it connects to the injectors.

Injectors: You can check the fuel injector for resistance with a multimeter. Model specific repair manuals from Haynes and Chilton cost about $20 and are sold by most parts chains. They will have more precise instructions on carrying out these diagnostic procedures and tolerances you are looking for with your multimeter.

Injectors can be expensive. You can remove them and have them tested and cleaned in a shop. There are also some videos on youtube on how to clean your own injectors.

 

Awesome suggestions - thank you for your reply.


So far I think I can handle all of it (at least up until the fuel injectors).


I will tinker with the truck on Sunday weather permitting.


I am still on the fence as to whether I will keep this truck....it does have 173k....about how many miles are these good for provided standard maintenance is performed??

 

All depends on who drove it. You said you heard the engine running smooth and the check engine light cleared up on its own. Usually things that come and go like that are electrical and not that difficult or expensive to replace once you find them.

Since you had some trouble with the EGR hoses I suggest you go back and check the DPFE sensor. If it's not working right it could be dumping too much exhaust gas back into the motor causing the misfire.

 

That sensor is new - I replaced it along with the two hoses that broke off in my hand two weeks ago...how do I check the sensor to see if it is working properly??

 

Well today I tightened the gear shifter and discovered the shift indicator bracket was broken. The entire gear shift assembly is $49 but the bracket, which comes with the new assembly is only $12 so I decided to just replace the bracket only. While everything was apart I replaced all 6 instrument panel bulbs with 194 Sylvania non-LED at a cost of $9.75 total.


Until the bracket comes I just left everything in pieces (I can do this since it is not a daily driver).


Weather got bad so I quit for the day. Will resume on Tuesday with the sparkplug wire check.

 

I should have paid closer attention to your OP. Go ahead and replace the EGR also since you said it looked in rough shape. The site at the link below has excellent tutorials on diagnosing the EGR and other systems for your 4.0.

Part 1 -Ford 4.0L Index of Articles

 

Well, I finally got my dash back together as I replaced all of the instrument panel light bulbs, replaced the shift indicator bracket and re-aligned my gear indicator. Took for a test drive and remembered the truck is still running rough. Tomorrow (Sunday) I am checking the spark plug position #4 and maybe will go to autopart store to borrow fuel pressure tool too. Ordered new EGR valve today and will replace once that comes....I am a big guy (more fat than tall) and I must say that it was a PITA to get under the dash. Glad that part is over.


Again, I just want to thank everyone for the great forum and the great suggestions.


James