No Vacuum Pump in the Gas Versions
#1
No Vacuum Pump in the Gas Versions
There has been some confusion as to whether there is a vacuum pump in the Gasser Excursions and Super Duties.
Since the Diesel engine does not make a adequate vacuum, A pump is necessary to operate any vacuum type equipment.
I have scratched my head several times reading from folks that there is a vacuum pump in the gassers too. However, Gas engines produce a really strong and high flow vacuum in the manifold. Any vacuum needs in a Gasoline powered vehicle are historically taken from there.
For the Excursions, I offer these pictures to show that there is no pump in the gas versions.
FOR REFERENCE, THE VACUUM PUMP IN QUESTION WITH AND WITHOUT THE BRACKET TO ATTACH TO THE INNER FENDER WALL:
FROM THE INTERNET I FOUND A PIC OF THE PUMP INSTALLED IN A 2000 SUPER DUTY DIESEL (THE ADDED GRAPHICS ARE FROM THE ORIGINAL AUTHOR)
THE FOLLOWING ARE TWO PICTURES i TOOK OF MY 2005 V10 EXCURSION:
It isn't there in the gas version.
Nuff Said.
Since the Diesel engine does not make a adequate vacuum, A pump is necessary to operate any vacuum type equipment.
I have scratched my head several times reading from folks that there is a vacuum pump in the gassers too. However, Gas engines produce a really strong and high flow vacuum in the manifold. Any vacuum needs in a Gasoline powered vehicle are historically taken from there.
For the Excursions, I offer these pictures to show that there is no pump in the gas versions.
FOR REFERENCE, THE VACUUM PUMP IN QUESTION WITH AND WITHOUT THE BRACKET TO ATTACH TO THE INNER FENDER WALL:
FROM THE INTERNET I FOUND A PIC OF THE PUMP INSTALLED IN A 2000 SUPER DUTY DIESEL (THE ADDED GRAPHICS ARE FROM THE ORIGINAL AUTHOR)
THE FOLLOWING ARE TWO PICTURES i TOOK OF MY 2005 V10 EXCURSION:
It isn't there in the gas version.
Nuff Said.
#3
There shouldn't be a pump on the gassers.
In the Lightning world, we'll sometimes add aftermarket canisters (like adding a biggger reservoir) because at low RPM's, during high speed maneuvers (like autocrossing) there are occasions when inadequate braking events occur. Some have even added pumps from SuperDuty diesel rigs so there is never an inadequate supply.
Stewart
In the Lightning world, we'll sometimes add aftermarket canisters (like adding a biggger reservoir) because at low RPM's, during high speed maneuvers (like autocrossing) there are occasions when inadequate braking events occur. Some have even added pumps from SuperDuty diesel rigs so there is never an inadequate supply.
Stewart
#4
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#8
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Agreeing with a former mechanic is always a good bet. We have been-there done-that. I learned the hard way when I was a building contractor not to doubt a pro. Not saying I know everything and vehicles had changed since then also.
#9
There has been some confusion as to whether there is a vacuum pump in the Gasser Excursions and Super Duties.
Since the Diesel engine does not make a adequate vacuum, A pump is necessary to operate any vacuum type equipment.
I have scratched my head several times reading from folks that there is a vacuum pump in the gassers too. However, Gas engines produce a really strong and high flow vacuum in the manifold. Any vacuum needs in a Gasoline powered vehicle are historically taken from there.
For the Excursions, I offer these pictures to show that there is no pump in the gas versions.
FOR REFERENCE, THE VACUUM PUMP IN QUESTION WITH AND WITHOUT THE BRACKET TO ATTACH TO THE INNER FENDER WALL:
FROM THE INTERNET I FOUND A PIC OF THE PUMP INSTALLED IN A 2000 SUPER DUTY DIESEL (THE ADDED GRAPHICS ARE FROM THE ORIGINAL AUTHOR)
THE FOLLOWING ARE TWO PICTURES i TOOK OF MY 2005 V10 EXCURSION:
It isn't there in the gas version.
Nuff Said.
Since the Diesel engine does not make a adequate vacuum, A pump is necessary to operate any vacuum type equipment.
I have scratched my head several times reading from folks that there is a vacuum pump in the gassers too. However, Gas engines produce a really strong and high flow vacuum in the manifold. Any vacuum needs in a Gasoline powered vehicle are historically taken from there.
For the Excursions, I offer these pictures to show that there is no pump in the gas versions.
FOR REFERENCE, THE VACUUM PUMP IN QUESTION WITH AND WITHOUT THE BRACKET TO ATTACH TO THE INNER FENDER WALL:
FROM THE INTERNET I FOUND A PIC OF THE PUMP INSTALLED IN A 2000 SUPER DUTY DIESEL (THE ADDED GRAPHICS ARE FROM THE ORIGINAL AUTHOR)
THE FOLLOWING ARE TWO PICTURES i TOOK OF MY 2005 V10 EXCURSION:
It isn't there in the gas version.
Nuff Said.
#11
Meh.... not really finding anything.
Ok. I accidently figured out how to upload these, but they're before the explanation and description below the pictures.
I finally got around to changing out my bad heater blower motor resister pack today. Man is that a pain in the ***. I moved the Cruise Control module out of the way and eventually got the piece out. Then after putting the new one back in, I decided to tackle the vacuum issue and found these three things.
A) When I put a new A/C Heater blower motor in a month ago, my old one (on the right of the first picture) had the fan wheel blades "cutting" to the left, but on the replacement unit (left side of picture) you see they 'cut' to the right, so it seems obvious that the fans don't rotate in the same direction. Is THAT a significant thing or does it not actually matter since this in mounted in an enclosed/sealed housing? Could that contribute in any way to my overall poor performance with my new blower motor?
B) As I was looking over my vacuum lines, I started to trace one that was going down between the black plastic 'tank' <?> and the battery. I pulled on it to see how much slack was in it, and what-do-you-know, it just came up from between them like someone had stuffed that line down in there to get it out of the way. There are actually 2 what I'm assuming are vacuum lines there. The right side is a red tube, and someone put a bolt in it to obviously seal it. It traces back about a foot to where it "T's" and goes back to the black plastic tank, and then the other end appears to be running somewhere up to the firewall on the passenger side. The black side of that which ISN'T plugged seems to go back over around mid-engine and disappears down in a mess of other lines that I wouldn't begin to know how to trace. But again, you can see THAT opening isn't plugged. So I plugged it with a bolt also then started the truck, but I see no improvement or change at all in what I'm still assuming is a vacuum issue, because when I change from defrost vents to floor or dash, it eventually does, but takes up to 30 or more seconds before you can feel the air direction VERY slowly change to the newly selected position.
Does anyone know why there would be this pigtail for a red and black vacuum line, and should I leave the black one unplugged and open, or is it reasonable to assume I should keep it plugged. Again, I hear no vacuum leaks (assuming I should if it were present) and putting my finger over the open port or releasing my finger from over the black hose port does nothing nor changes anything apparent to me.
I finally got around to changing out my bad heater blower motor resister pack today. Man is that a pain in the ***. I moved the Cruise Control module out of the way and eventually got the piece out. Then after putting the new one back in, I decided to tackle the vacuum issue and found these three things.
A) When I put a new A/C Heater blower motor in a month ago, my old one (on the right of the first picture) had the fan wheel blades "cutting" to the left, but on the replacement unit (left side of picture) you see they 'cut' to the right, so it seems obvious that the fans don't rotate in the same direction. Is THAT a significant thing or does it not actually matter since this in mounted in an enclosed/sealed housing? Could that contribute in any way to my overall poor performance with my new blower motor?
B) As I was looking over my vacuum lines, I started to trace one that was going down between the black plastic 'tank' <?> and the battery. I pulled on it to see how much slack was in it, and what-do-you-know, it just came up from between them like someone had stuffed that line down in there to get it out of the way. There are actually 2 what I'm assuming are vacuum lines there. The right side is a red tube, and someone put a bolt in it to obviously seal it. It traces back about a foot to where it "T's" and goes back to the black plastic tank, and then the other end appears to be running somewhere up to the firewall on the passenger side. The black side of that which ISN'T plugged seems to go back over around mid-engine and disappears down in a mess of other lines that I wouldn't begin to know how to trace. But again, you can see THAT opening isn't plugged. So I plugged it with a bolt also then started the truck, but I see no improvement or change at all in what I'm still assuming is a vacuum issue, because when I change from defrost vents to floor or dash, it eventually does, but takes up to 30 or more seconds before you can feel the air direction VERY slowly change to the newly selected position.
Does anyone know why there would be this pigtail for a red and black vacuum line, and should I leave the black one unplugged and open, or is it reasonable to assume I should keep it plugged. Again, I hear no vacuum leaks (assuming I should if it were present) and putting my finger over the open port or releasing my finger from over the black hose port does nothing nor changes anything apparent to me.
Last edited by Bigfoot46555; 12-17-2018 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Not seeing the pictures I attached. Still trying.
#13
Ok. Cool. Thanks. I've plugged mine in with the black on top and the red on the bottom like in your picture, and when I removed the plug in the hole of my red side, there was the sound of vacuum being pulled. But I don't see anything different happening with my dash air flow with that plugged in to that device. What IS it anyway?
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