Many years ago when I was having all my E4OD problems a member here sent me a file that contains a wealth of E4OD info, parts numbers, diagnosis, repair, and pictures. I just ran across that file in my computer and figured I'd share it here in case it might help someone. I'd hat-tip the guy that sent it to me, but I don't recall anymore and most of the guys that were active back then are silent today, but anyway on with the show:

E4OD Files

 

the part #F2TZ-9B989-C listed on page one in the main article in post one,is updated.it's now: Motorcraft CX1448 for those in need of replacement and wish to use Motorcraft.was just looking to replace the one on log truck as part of my tune up as iv no idea how many miles are on it.

cool.other replacement parts in case needed:

Throttle Position Sensor: CX1448

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket: 9F878

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Screw: 9F885

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Locator Screw: 9F887

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Screw: 9F883

Fuel Injection Pump Throttle Position Sensor Bracket Screw Washer: 9F888

source; fordparts.com

 

I have several scan tools including the Super Star II Ford Factory scan tool for this application along with the above referenced and Ford specified gage block, but for the life of me, I can't figure out exactly where the gage block goes.

I'm suffering from really harsh shuddering shifts from 1-2 and some slippage. Before I condemn the transmission and start the job of removing it from my truck (and spending the money to have it rebuilt) I'd like to at least try to set the FIPL correctly.

Using a Snap-On Modis, I got the following codes:
23 TP/FIPL sensor out of range
14 profile ignition pick-up erratic
63 throttle pos signal/FIPL too low
67 PNP or clutch switch circuit failure.

As the scan tools say to fix the TP/FIPL problem first, that's where I'm starting.

any insight?

 

We have all no doubt heard the adage that the poor tradesman blames his tools and the good tradesman makes do with the tools he has.

Sigh. Once again, I realize that I have the tools, I just need to realize which one does the job the best and easiest.

If the software on my Modis-Heritage were up to date, I would be finished by now.

Fortunately, the Modis Ultra on my truck has the newest software installed and it shows one how to accomplish this task directly.

Smack My Head!

Off to set my FIPL correctly and hopefully resolve my shifting issues.

Wish me luck.

 

yeah apparently this was the original way to set the FIPL/TPS.i know there is an old thread on here somewhere discussing this in great detail.
however,this method simply using a multimeter should be all you need.
not sure if i could find this old thread or not,but if you can't and would like to see the old method,let me know and i'll try looking for it too.it was using your multimeter and if i recall measuring resistance with the block set under the throttle to hold it open just that bit above idle....if i recall correctly.i haven't read that thread in a long time but i know it's here.

.........
reminder;
don't forget to hold WOT (wide open throttle) during your key on,engine off scans guys or you'll get code 23 every time.

 

No worries. Once I back-probed the signal lead and watched it on the scope, it became painfully obvious that the TPS had failed as the signal was not smooth and continuous.

Again, once I realized I had the perfect tool in the Modis Ultra, it led me right to the issue.

I should have the part by EOB and in by tomorrow

 

New part from Napa. Installed and adjusted.

I was not able to get the full range of 1.2-4.5 volts. The maximum voltage I was able to achieve was ~3.6-3.8 volts.

Is it more important to have the idle voltage right, or WOT voltage right?

Or, should I set the minimum and max to greatest difference?

 

1.2V idle should be your primary.you should be able to find a different axis where you can find 1.2V at idle once again,but with a higher WOT voltage.try tilting way down up front and slowly tip the front up until you find 1.2V idle,then check WOT.
if no luck,then start with the front tipped way up and slowly tip down until you get close to 1.2V/4.5V
however,a 1.2V idle/3.8V WOT might be ok. (i personally wouldn't live it with it,but i do tend to be a perfectionist whenever possible/feasible/practical lol.)

the main cause of your issues though might be your 67 code.which is the MLPS/NSS/range sensor.an unrelated sensor to this thread,so i won't go into great detail talking about things that wont help others here,but it's connector may be dirty or it might need to be adjusted.lastly replaced.it's vital not to have a MLPS code.your tps codes were no good either so it was good to fix 'em.
if you need more help with the MLPS,feel free to start a new thread.they are even easier to set.they marked them now so you don't even need your meter!

edit:
also off topic but just as vital for you is too fix code 14.you also have this listed incorrectly.that's the code for your tach sensor.this needs to be working.

 

Thank you for your response.

To some extent I was thinking the range switch/sensor may have been an anomaly as my main area of expertise is early (distributor engine) Land Rovers and Range Rovers, not Ford diesels :-) and I was not completely familiar with the diagnostics procedures and the first scan of the truck was conducting with the throttle closed, rather than at WOT.

I was aware of the cam sensor when I bought the truck but was under the impression that the only function it served was to provide input to the tach. As I have a Snap-On customer who is the local Ford diesel guru, I have been disabused of that notion and will replace the cam sensor as soon as practicable.

I am hesitant to throw too many new parts at this truck as it is rapidly approaching the point where it might be better to cut ties and move on as the body is in poor shape and the transmission fluid is definitely discolored-black may be a better description and I am concerned about complete failure.

W/R/T being a perfectionist, when I was running my shop full-time, one of my Shop-Boys told me I'd never earn a profit because I was too concerned with doing a perfect job than getting work out the door. Snap-On is a business where such precision is really only needed when keeping a customer's account straight!

 

Tranny shop called and asked if truck shifted in all gears before seal blewout.He says truck will not shift above 2nd gear now.Seems they should no how to correct adjustments they are supposed to be a reliable shop.Any ideas where to start?

 

Fordf250, Thank you for such an excellent write up. I changed the tps in my truck according to your instruction and it shifts beautifully now! OD light is off now too! I just removed the sensor bolts and replaced the sensor with the new one and checked the voltages with key on engine off and they were spot one with your voltages, 1.2v at idle and up to 4.12v WOT on middle wire. 5v on bottom wire. And the top wire with key off engine off, I had .5 OHMs resistance.

My truck shifts so smooth now that I can't really feel it. It seems like it should have a more definitive shift that I should feel. When I let off the throttle it goes into lock up and unlocks when I give it throttle again. Does this seem right? It does have some good push to it when I get into the throttle though and it gets up and goes without any hesitation. And in that aspect it does seem right. Just cruising it will shift around 1700 - 1850 in all gears. I haven't gone too heavy on the throttle since I'm still getting used to the truck.

Thanks Bob

 

factory E40D's shift extremely soft.

when your running down the road in OD and let off the accelerator completely,the truck will feel like it went into a semi neutral state and help free roll.this is normal.

sounds like you got things dialed in good and all systems are go Bob.good luck.

 

Cool Thanks Ford!! I took it for a ride today and got into it good and it went up to about 3300-3400 rpm before shifting and it was a good strong firm shift. Felt good to me. It had no problem getting up to 50 from a stop! Now I just need to figure out the random hard start when warmed up then shut off for about a half hr to an hr. Looks to maybe be the IP is wearing out from reading and researching.

 

the tach sensor must be working properly or it will lock and unlock the tork converter randomly, also remember the 2-3 is with converter unlocked, then it locks, making it sometimes feel like a shift to od, the shift to OD is a locked shift, unless you are at or near full throttle. if you turn on the flashers, this will prevent the converter from locking. at any speed. do not climb hills with flashers on this will over heat your transmission, and kill it. tapping the brake will momentarily unlock the converter, the speed you are traveling and the amount of throttle peddle you have depressed will determine firmness of shift, a lower tps setting, softens shifts, and delays downshifting, in overdrive when you let off throttle the coast clutch is employed, providing little or no engine breaking, with OD turned off the trans provides engine braking, in 3rd 2nd and first if you are traveling slow enough for it to shift to 1st. also The E4OD will not lock converter, or shift to OD unless internal temp is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit. if you are experiencing weird shifts, you are providing corrupted information to PCM, BAD SENSORS.... or wiring, check for corrosion in tail lights bleeding voltage back through brake light circuit.

 

Mine did the same thing but now wont even shift out of first. Did you find out what was wrong with yours?