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I'm getting ready to put a turbocharged 300 inline 6 into my 62' but I really don't want to do that much fab work on motor mounts. The factory wishbone style mount looks like it would almost work on the 300 and blocks are almost the same width. Has anyone ever done this or maybe had a better solution? Also concerned with torque stress on the factory mounts with added power.
I'm getting ready to put a turbocharged 300 inline 6 into my 62' but I really don't want to do that much fab work on motor mounts. The factory wishbone style mount looks like it would almost work on the 300 and blocks are almost the same width. Has anyone ever done this or maybe had a better solution? Also concerned with torque stress on the factory mounts with added power.
I would not use anything from the factory. You need to fabricate a new cradle for the engine as there are no aftermarket ones out there for the 240/300.
I would build a new unit out of .125 tubing and make custom engine plate mounts with poly bushings to absorb the vibrations. The 300 likes to twist with the torque as the mounts would need to be sufficient to offset that.
It sounds like you want a full custom build, don't clutter it up with half measures using factory stuff that has to be cut up to fit.
Garbz
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98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
I will use a set of IC tubular 4.6 iron block mounts, and i have a custom IC tubular transmission mount on long center bars. I have a IC Dakota Kit in my 63 that i built when i worked there. I added 2 inches of additional frame drop and can still add 2 inches of spindle drop. I also added D150 discs and calipers to the Dakota Spindles for a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. IC no longer Produces the kits.
I originally set up the truck to use a 390 and C6 but did no like the fitment even with a rear sump 4x4 pan.
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98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
Nice work man but I think I've about decided on another setup a guy did to run at the salt flats. He just did the axle flip to the top of the leaf springs and notched the frame like you did the rear on yours, but I'll have to relocate my gearbox to eliminate bumpsteer. He got about 6 inches of drop on his and if it's stable enough to run 150+ at the salt flats I'm sure it'll work for mine. Plus the more I read about Bonneville the more I want to run mine!
I have front ahead of axle steering box mounts for 65 up ford 2 wheel drive boxes to provide a front steer push pull arrangement. Check out this thread as i have a dropped axle and reverse eye leafs on this truck i am building.
I have most of the sheet metal for this truck out having the body and paint work done. I am fabricating the exhaust now and will have some new pics up later this week,
Garbz
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98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
I have front ahead of axle steering box mounts for 65 up ford 2 wheel drive boxes to provide a front steer push pull arrangement. Check out this thread as i have a dropped axle and reverse eye leafs on this truck i am building.
I have most of the sheet metal for this truck out having the body and paint work done. I am fabricating the exhaust now and will have some new pics up later this week,
Garbz
Nice work man I hope mine turns out as good as yours. I also have a rack and pinion steering setup just laying in out barn would that be a good solution to the bump steer or would I have the same problems? And we talked about exchanging parts off that 65 I found in a junkyard would the windshield in it fit my 62?
When i did the Z in the front frame i cut it on an angle. I raised the frame 2 inches and gained 1 inch in wheel base.
You will need to be careful of where the axle ends up in relation to the oil pan.
Short bed or long bed moving the axle center line one inch forward centers it.
The dakota i used in the 63 all ready had this modification built in to it when Steve designed them.
No limit produced a kit for straight axle trucks to use a rack but he had custom steering arms to compensate and correct ackerman. Still not sold on it as i can see the bump steering as the axle moves opposite of the stationary steering column.
Windshields interchange 61 to 66. Small rear windows interchange along with the side glass and vents.
Garbz
Garbz
__________________
98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
Sweet. Thanks for the info and I'll definitely invest in a lot of parts off of that truck. I think the 300 I'm dropping in has a center sump oil pan should I try to find a rear sump or do you know if they even made a rear sump?
use a 4x4 pan and pickup. Or any truck 300 pan from 1980 on. Van pans are center hump.
Garbz
__________________
98 528I BMW
64 F100 "Christine II" 390 NP435 6" lifted 2 wheel drive
63 F100 Uni Custom under construction 4" off the pavement and built to drive.
69 M250 Crew Hiboy 472 C6 Ranger, getting a full rebuild.
Long time no post.. Been busy workin and goin to school But I have been making progress on the uni just had a few questions or suggestion... Im cutting out my bed cuz its all rusted and wavy anyways I was just wondering if there are some parts i should avoid cutting all the way through or just not worry about it and re-fab new bed crossmember support.. Maybe you have a few pics you could post. My plan is to c notch the frame and raise the wheel wells to the top of the bed rails and possibly notching them as well while raising the entire bed floor
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But I have been making progress on the uni just had a few questions or suggestion... Im cutting out my bed cuz its all rusted and wavy anyways I was just wondering if there are some parts i should avoid cutting all the way through or just not worry about it and re-fab new bed crossmember support.. Maybe you have a few pics you could post. My plan is to c notch the frame and raise the wheel wells to the top of the bed rails and possibly notching them as well while raising the entire bed floor
