FICM
#16
12-04-2011, 05:01 AM
Post Fiend
We don't suggest the higher voltage modifications for precisely the reasons stated here.
The easiest and certainly most reliable path to better cold starting is migrating to 5W40 synthetic oil. The difference is night and day, especially in those cases where stiction has already begun to set in.
Thanks for all the positive comments about our service, guys. It is much appreciated.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
The easiest and certainly most reliable path to better cold starting is migrating to 5W40 synthetic oil. The difference is night and day, especially in those cases where stiction has already begun to set in.
Thanks for all the positive comments about our service, guys. It is much appreciated.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
Do you have units that out can send out and then we send you our core.
I just can't have my truck down for a week or two. My truck is a working one that I need every day.
#17
12-04-2011, 09:26 AM
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output. Low FICM voltage was not an issue anymore
.
Talked himself out of the job! He was more interested in my problem than the money! Thanks again to Ed!
He wasn't doing exchange due to flash. The next thing I have to deal with is my out dated flash(all buzz at once, not good for FICM).
If my FIMC shows problems he will be the 1!!!!
JIMBOB another redneck with an opinion
#18
12-04-2011, 09:37 AM
Post Fiend
Last month I talked to Ed on the phone, after 30 min. conversation, I checked several things he pointed out, replaced batteries & repaired bad connection on Alt.
output. Low FICM voltage was not an issue anymore
.
Talked himself out of the job! He was more interested in my problem than the money! Thanks again to Ed!
He wasn't doing exchange due to flash. The next thing I have to deal with is my out dated flash(all buzz at once, not good for FICM).
If my FIMC shows problems he will be the 1!!!!
JIMBOB another redneck with an opinion
output. Low FICM voltage was not an issue anymore
.
Talked himself out of the job! He was more interested in my problem than the money! Thanks again to Ed!
He wasn't doing exchange due to flash. The next thing I have to deal with is my out dated flash(all buzz at once, not good for FICM).
If my FIMC shows problems he will be the 1!!!!
JIMBOB another redneck with an opinion
I need to upgrade my battery wires.
When I put in the 200amp alt. all I did was piggy back a 2 gauge wire to the pass. battery.
I need to jump them all up to 2/0 including the grounds.
Just need to find the time.
#19
12-04-2011, 01:44 PM
The short answer is 'yes', but I'll be sending you a PM. This is a forum for like-minded individuals trying to help each other. I try hard to keep the moderators happy and not make it a sales venue.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
#20
12-04-2011, 08:09 PM
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Hey Andy -
The short answer is 'yes', but I'll be sending you a PM. This is a forum for like-minded individuals trying to help each other. I try hard to keep the moderators happy and not make it a sales venue.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
The short answer is 'yes', but I'll be sending you a PM. This is a forum for like-minded individuals trying to help each other. I try hard to keep the moderators happy and not make it a sales venue.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
JIMBOB another redneck with an opinion
#21
12-04-2011, 09:31 PM
i believe that my FICM is taking a dump on me.. i have a scangauge2 and it shows it bouncing between 47.0 and 48.5 constantly while running... i put my sg2 in a buddys truck and his shows almost a constant 49.5... could this mean its going out... when my truck is cold it starts rough and when i drive it if im at a speen where im maintaining a speed while im at low rpms, the truck shakes alot like its missing or something.... does this sound like it may be a FICM issue?
#22
12-04-2011, 11:56 PM
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Just a word of caution, because of budget issues I tried to fix my FICM last week. I had a complete no start truck.( 06 ) After testing I pulled the FICM, took it apart, and reflowed the solder connections as instructed. I then put it all back together and to my suprise the truck started right up woohoo! I took my wife to the store and back aprox.20 miles and while backing into the driveway it lurched, chuged, and died. We unloaded and I started it up to turn it around and plug it in for the night. while doing this it died once again but started right up again.Next morning I go out to start it for work an nothing. Cranks over but no sign of even trying to start. After this reply Im writing Ed and hoping it not beyond professional help. So much for my "budget". So Ed,you busy??????>>>>>>>..................?
#23
12-05-2011, 03:31 AM
i believe that my FICM is taking a dump on me.. i have a scangauge2 and it shows it bouncing between 47.0 and 48.5 constantly while running... i put my sg2 in a buddys truck and his shows almost a constant 49.5... could this mean its going out... when my truck is cold it starts rough and when i drive it if im at a speen where im maintaining a speed while im at low rpms, the truck shakes alot like its missing or something.... does this sound like it may be a FICM issue?
#24
12-05-2011, 01:01 PM
#25
12-05-2011, 05:22 PM
Just a word of caution, because of budget issues I tried to fix my FICM last week. I had a complete no start truck.( 06 ) After testing I pulled the FICM, took it apart, and reflowed the solder connections as instructed. I then put it all back together and to my suprise the truck started right up woohoo! I took my wife to the store and back aprox.20 miles and while backing into the driveway it lurched, chuged, and died. We unloaded and I started it up to turn it around and plug it in for the night. while doing this it died once again but started right up again.Next morning I go out to start it for work an nothing. Cranks over but no sign of even trying to start. After this reply Im writing Ed and hoping it not beyond professional help. So much for my "budget". So Ed,you busy??????>>>>>>>..................?
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
#26
12-13-2011, 08:42 PM
Well I just took my FICM out and thought what the heck... I opened it up and re soldered everything... It worked perfectly. 47.7-48 volts KO, Cranking, Running etc... I had one issue removing the amber one of the resistors fell out! I soldered it in and away we go. Sorry Ed I couldnt resist at least trying. I was a service tech for 12 years repairing high tech dental equipment!
One question I do have is the rubber bushings where missing as where the back screws and bushings. I am guessing someone fixed it in the past and did a crappy job.
Where can I get those parts?
Daniel
One question I do have is the rubber bushings where missing as where the back screws and bushings. I am guessing someone fixed it in the past and did a crappy job.
Where can I get those parts?Daniel
#27
12-13-2011, 08:57 PM
No need to be sorry, Daniel. I truly hope it works out for you. Many have found, however, that the resolder solution is only temporary. This is the basis for our use of upgraded (and new) components.
I'd suggest just keeping an eye on it. If it works and stays working, all I can say is good for you!
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
I'd suggest just keeping an eye on it. If it works and stays working, all I can say is good for you!
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
#29
12-13-2011, 09:29 PM
#30
12-13-2011, 09:39 PM
Hey Daniel -
The rubber grommets are on the bracket itself where it connects to the engine. There are no grommets on the newer models where the FICM connects to the bracket. Just re-attach the four bolts as you found it and you should be all set, though consider using some insulation (more details on the FAQ page of FICMrepair.com) between the module and the bracket to minimize the heat soak that occurs after engine shutoff. Just be sure that whatever insulation you use won't ignite. Studies have shown that that is all bad.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com
The rubber grommets are on the bracket itself where it connects to the engine. There are no grommets on the newer models where the FICM connects to the bracket. Just re-attach the four bolts as you found it and you should be all set, though consider using some insulation (more details on the FAQ page of FICMrepair.com) between the module and the bracket to minimize the heat soak that occurs after engine shutoff. Just be sure that whatever insulation you use won't ignite. Studies have shown that that is all bad.
Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com