Hello! This is my first time posting on this forum, or working on a Ford, so bear with me.

I'm in California at my fiancee's house. Her dad has an 82 F150 Ranger, inline-6, 4-speed, and California-equipped with all the emissions stuff.

I was asked to replace the preheater hose, and I removed the air cleaner to get to things....and as I was doing so, something popped. I kept lifting the air cleaner, and discovered that there are two hoses coming off the top front of the carb. One, I'm guessing, is the fuel hose (on the left). The other (bigger, and on the right) had what looked like some kind of one-way valve on it that fed back into the other vaccum hoses.

The valve had popped apart. I snapped it back together as best I could, finished what I was doing, and started the truck. It ran fine, but when we got back to the house, I noticed that there was a slow drip of fuel coming from the tank area.

So, here are my questions. First, what is this valve? What can I replace it with? Is the carb pressurized in such a way that breaking this valve would cause some sort of return hose or overflow hose or Cali emissions hose to leak gas back near the tank? Or is this just a freak coincidence that I was messing with stuff and now there's a leak? It looks like the leak has been there - the fuel tank is grimy and stained underneath.

I am panicked. The truck is dripping gas, and I'm trying to save face in front of her father.

Thanks!

-Tyler

 

Best thing here to do is:

1) Take a picture of the problem area/object

2) Take a picture of the emissions label/vacuum routing diagram on the hood support so we can see it and help you diagnose your issues

3) Be up front with her father. It'll earn you a lot more respect than trying to save face.

If you can get us the pictures so we can see what the problem is, then we can really help to an amazing extent.

But, if I had to say anything, I'm willing to bet it was probably a fuel filter or something. No way for us to know without photos.

 

X2!

I don't think whatever you broke is causing the fuel drip. However, it may well make it fail emissions test next round, and may cause the computer to start throwing codes and lock the timing into limp-home mode.

I think the '82 6 had a feedback 1bbl carb controlled by the computer, and EEC-IV system with DS-III ignition. Assuming you are in CA (forgot to look) he'll need the system to be working properly, so it does need to be fixed.

 

I agree with being up-front with her father being better than trying to hide stuff, because he WILL become aware sometime later and then he's gonna ask why did you not tell him.

It's a 30 yo truck, of course things are fragile, of course there will be problems.

As for the drip, mine was leaking from the rotten rubber hose between the tank and and steel fuel line.

Yes, pictures are necessary....

 

Sounds to me like you are talking about this line, the one on the front, drivers side of the carb:



If so, it may be the Carburetor Bowl Vent Solenoid, shown here:



If so, this component permits carb fuel bowl vapors to flow to the carbon canister when the engine is off. With engine on, it closes and the carb fuel bowl vents internally to the carb air horn, into the engine intake.

So if busted, it either can't close or can't open - the consequences of which I am uncertain of. But I hope this helps.

 

I forgot the drip, and Chris reminded me. I've worked on several of these trucks and all of the 81 and 82's have had rotten fuel lines. I mean ROTTEN. So bad that if you touch it the black rubber won't come off your skin for days. And, gas comes right through the sides of the hose.

There's a hose like Chris said from the tank to the metal tube and one from the front of the tube to the fuel pump. And, if you have dual tanks there's a valve below the cab that has 3 hoses on it. You really need to replace all of them.

The one on the tank can be replaced w/o dropping the tank, but it helps a lot to loosen the nuts on the bolts that hold the tank and let it down as far as you can. That should give you enough room to work.

 

First thing I saw was a spotless NIB carb and I knew Galendor was commenting. Second, this guy that "isn't qualified to comment" (paraphrasing) comes through with "the" picture and points out what the broken part probably is. Does anyone else find that (what was that word Chris used on me earlier?) incongruous? Rep's to you, Galendor!

Edit: Someone please help me 'cause I can't rep Galendor again.

 

Aw shucks, glad to help. I agree, the dripping gas near the tank probably isn't caused by this valve being broken. But at least knowing the name of it can help in locating a replacement.

 

Look on the one way valve for its ID number (it's molded into the plastic, and will be similar to this: D7DE-AA)) post what it is.

 

you guys are awesome. thank you so much. I'm gonna replace the valve, and just make sure that her dad knows about the fuel leak, which I feel much better talking about now that we're pretty sure I didn't cause it.

 

The 1982 300-6 with california smog has what is known as a MCU. (Microcomputer Control Unit) along with a DS-II ignition module. The computer controls ignition timing by bleeding off vacuum advance from a "Spark Retard Solenoid" (EGR solenoid) located on the valve cover of the back left side of the engine.

I can go on for days, as my 1981 has the same basic system.

Now for your problem. The device in question is a Green/white looking valve correct? The purpose of this valve is to only alow vapor to move one direction, or to restrict flow altogether under certain temperature conditions. the valve is temperature sensitive. Post the ID number and I know numberdummy will help you to find one.

As for the gas dripping, this nipple goes to your carb's fuel bowl, and this is how the carb is suppose to vent vapor from the bowl. The gas dripping is a problem that could be one of a few things.

1: The rubber round gasket on the inside of the carb has deteriorated alowing gasoline into the vent nipple.
2: The fuel float is out of adjustment slightly and is alowing the bowl to overfill just enough for fuel to get into the vent nipple area.

When you do get a new one way valve, I would also advise to have the carb rebuilt with a carb kit. This would have all the instructions you would need for adjustments, and the nessecery gaskets to fix that dripping problem. If you just replace the valve, the liquid gas going into it will destroy it, as it's only meant for vapor and not liquid fuel.

Hope this helps.

 

Guess I'm lost. I thought the gas leak was in the area of the tank, not the carb. If it is the carb then everything I said about fuel lines was for naught.

 

Actually I think I miss read that after reading it again Gary.

If it is the tank, and it's leaking by the vent valve on top, or one of the hoses or seals...

California has a new test.
http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResource...s/LPFETFAQ.pdf

It consists of pressurizing the fuel tanks to check the integrity of the evaporative emissions system on single tank vehicles. If they over pressurized the system, or if the hoses or seals were weak, it could have caused a seal or hose to fail, and your valve on your carb to even pop loose.

check all the hoses and seals around the tank... etc...