Hello everyone, I was wondering what the max RPM would be on a totally stock 1980 302? Mine seems to top out around 4k (judjing by the factory tach), but I've heard they're good for over 6k. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

I've taken stock bottom ends to 6500 you just need a top end to make power there... just because it hits 6500 with a stock bottom end doesn't mean it will last forever... If you want a 7000 rpm motor you have to spend money, I built a 7500 rpm 302 (not sure how much power it made but he would hold on a 7500 chip stuck in the mud) with stock 5.0 crank, all ground smooth and shot peened, balanced, Scat I beam rods with forged pistons..

I have beat the death out of many 302 and the bottom ends (as long as they had oil pressure) stayed together... I have never seen a street 302 with a broken crank...

 

The cars....5500, trucks.......4400 give or take a little bit.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. From what you are telling me, the 302 in the cars could hit around 5500 STOCK, is that correct? Mine is in a truck, however, I'm wondering, what's stopping me from hitting the same RPM as the 302 in cars? Is it a governor or something, or would I have to dig in to it a bit?

 

Cam, Exhaust, intake, Valve springs.... will be the limiting factors.. mostly valve springs... hold a stock 302 to the bellhousing and the valve float will hold it back..

 

The limiting parts in your case will be the block (80-85 302 blocks are the lightweights of the 302's check your casting numbers before spending any money on the motor, if it's got an E0AE block, it's garbage.), the cam, & valve springs. A roller 5.0 can be turned regularly to 7500 with good valve springs that will control the roller lifters, along with ARP rod bolts on stock C8OE rods. Of course you will also need better heads to let it breathe to get up there.

 

80-85 302 blocks are the lightweights....

You really have to be up there in the hp to worry about the lighter blocks you can still spin them right up there .. Any 302 block will hold up on the street... when you start adding forced induction, Nitrous, etc is where you start splitting them in half.. 500hp or so
Just saying ... my 2cents

 

The main problem with these blocks is getting the head gaskets to seal because of the thin decks, when you start to hotrod them. There are much better choices to pick from to even consider using one of these blocks.

 

Thanks guys. I'm not going to build this thing to be a street machine, just hoping to get a little more top end out of it. Where would I check for the casting number? Also, what date was the E0AE block put into production? This truck was built in November '79 if that makes any difference. Any chance I could bolt a 289 to my C4 transmission or would I be better off just finding a better 302 or modding this one a little?

 

The E0AE block went into production in late 79. The casting numbers are located behind and below the starter. The casting numbers for the pre 1980's blocks are above the starter. Hopefully you'll have a D8VE block there instead of the 1980-up block. The D8VE castings are the same as the 289 blocks as far as weight goes, the bonus to look for is the D8VE-A3A casting, this one's got the 289 Hi-po/Mexican block main caps. The 3A suffix block will have the std main caps.

 

With a completely stock truck motor the block is NOT a limiting factor in terms of HP potential no matter when it was produced. These motors need a cam and exhaust upgrade first and then likely a carb and intake if they're stock pieces. Those upgrades will generate 275-280hp at 5000rpm give or take but it will take better heads to get over the 300hp mark and it is possible to approach 400hp with the right cam, intake, head combo... on an all stock shortblock still... which is in no danger of scattering itself if you keep the rpms under about 6500. If you want more hp or rpm than that you have to start reinforcing the bottom end, but somewhere around the 450-500hp level the production blocks start to show their weaknesses so IMO $$ spend from this point on better be disposable because the block could split at any moment and destroy everything in and on it, and you're better off with an aftermarket 302 block or a 351.

 

Well considering it's in the '20s here today, I'm obviously not too thrilled to get out there and take my starter off. Does the starter cover up the numbers on the E0AE block? It feels like there are numbers stamped in the block above the starter, could this indicate that it's a D8VE block?

 

How much power you planning on making??

 

Like I said, I'm not trying to build a street machine here. Fact is, it makes decent power the way it is now, I was just looking to bump it up just a little bit and get a little better top-end. Just enough so I can cruise down the highway with ease.

 

Nothing wrong with an E0AE block I beat the snot out of one for years in my truck 234rwhp ...

Hate to see your worry about building what you have... it will be fine... get some headers and dual exhaust, upgrade your cam (plenty of guys here that know witch ones will work with your efi) and "I can't stress this enough" change your gears..

Good Luck