Yeah, go figure... and this was at the labs where they have beryllium contamination, bunkers with radioactive stuff, etc. They said it would require tenting the entire three-sphere assembly to even wire-brush them. I gave up.

Ilya, what we used on the spheres wouldn't be correct for the trailer, necessarily. I'd find your local Tnemec rep and ask for their recommendation. The guys I talked to were very knowledgable (it's their job).

 

I like John deere Black Implement paint, plenty tough enough for a frame and around 30 bucks a gallon at the John Deere dealer, its kind of a satin finish. They also stock the reducers and dryers you can mix with it if you want. Brush ,roll or spray.

 

Me too...well mine was $37 quart. I bought one and did the frame and bottom of the cab. had to stretch to get the bottom of the cab done. Then I didn't really like the finish so I bought Duplicolor Bedliner and sprayed over the Chassis Saver. Not sure how long it will last but, touch ups will be done with the Duplicolor. I like the finish it provides.

 

WOW! Tons of great info from all of you! I think i'll give that Chassis Saver a try. The hardest part for me will be brushing paint on my nice smooth metal. Eeek! But, if it levels out smooth, thats works for me. I appreciate all the info guys! Now with a little luck, I can get my chassis back in the garage, get it warmed up, (freezing temps now), and that thing painted. I'll get pics on here soon....

 

I may be totally wrong, but I don't think POR-15 has UV inhibitors in it (ie, it will brake down if exposed to even indirect light). You might want to research that. The POR product I used on my bed oak didn't have UV protection, so it had to be top-coated with spar urethane.

 

I just checked out that Chassis Saver. That does look like a real good alternative. Now, if only I hadn't already sparayed the entire chassis (one coat) and the front axle and springs (3 coats) with Rustoleum gloss black. I assume I can probably do a light sand on that however and re-coat it. I will check into that UV protection on the Chassis Saver as well.

 

i can't tell you that there won't be brush strokes visible. Mine did not flow out like a spraygun application. thats why I sprayed mine with the duplicolor bedliner. then it looked great! kind of a very fine sand finish as best as i can describe. good luck! and DONT get it on anything that you dont want it on.
I got some on my left boot, that was this summer and it looks untouched!
I used my quart over a period of three evenings. I got the lid on the can, put it in 2 large ziplock bags sealed with as much air out as i could get out. I cleaned the brush with lacquer thinner, but it was stiff as a board the next day. so I just bought more brushes. doc said he used foam, I used decent oil brushes hoping for a GOOD finish. just buy the cheap ones. it didn't matter. sorry for the sloppy grammar, in a hurry!

 

here's resurrecting an old thread, but i ran across this thread in my study for what to coat my frame with. . .

I read bob's article and was pretty convinced towards PPG then i ran across this http://www.ppg.com/en/newsroom/news/...20101028A.aspx

here's something to be said when a national hockey teams uses the stuff.

 

I was painting a few small parts, and pretty much by accident I stumbled across a process that seems to work well. I had finished the POR process, and I didn't want to have to clean the spray gun for just a couple of small parts, so I grabbed a spray can of Rustoleum that I had on the shelf. I had to leave, so I sprayed the parts while the POR was still a little tacky. The Rustoleum bonded really well & the coating is tough as nails. I ended up doing the same for my inner fenders. So...maybe the question isn't POR versus Rustoleum...it should be POR and Rustoleum!

 

I use POR-15, works good, lot of prep with it. I tested it on an old rusty exhaust hanger. Painted it then left it on the ground in my shed for just over one year. The rust never came through the paint.

 

On my newer project truck (1989 f150) I chose tremclad (canadas rustoleum) due to the budget build I am doing. I think with proper prep it will be ok, but its really in a different category then por-15.

I used por 15 once on a truck and the gravel roads seemed to knock it off fairly fast, leaving me with rust showing again. That was after prep as per por-15's directions stated.

Could have got a bad can maybe? cause most guys I talk to love the stuff.

 

You might look at the Master Series products, I have used the silver on the floors of both trucks and Mustangs. It can be sprayed or brushed and is not too particular about what it goes over or goes over it. Prep is minimal.