P2195, P0059, P1000, P0330, U0121, P0351... so many codes!! Please help!!!
#1
P2195, P0059, P1000, P0330, U0121, P0351... so many codes!! Please help!!!
Hey everyone, so in effort to give you history on what's going on here, I have a 2006 Navigator with 131k miles, and I had no check engine light nor any DTC's last month when I decided to replace my A/C compressor. I broke a boss off my front timing cover in the process (don't ask ) and things snow-balled from there. Nothing else except the cam phasers were needing to be addressed, but while I had the timing cover off I decided to replace the oil pump, cam phasers, timing chain, timing chain guides, timing chain crank sprocket, timing chain tensioners, VTC solenoids, water pump, A/C compressor, power steering pump, alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner and pulley, spark plugs, cam position sensors, crank position sensor.... and I think that's about it.
After getting the engine fired back up it was running really rough and threw several DTC's. They all lead to lose fuel injector and COP connectors, and once I put a little more pressure and got them to click into place the engine was running great. I cleared the codes, but was getting a P2197 [O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Code]. Wasn't sure why/how that O2 sensor just started having problems so I took the car for a 1.5 hour drive to see if it would clear up. About 50-60 minutes into my drive the check engine light disappeared and didn't return over the next several weeks that I drove the car. So I chalked it up as a false positive.
Well, unfortunately my new power steering pump was bad, so after several weeks of no DTC's I got around to replacing the pump, and also replaced my heater control valve (had a suspicion it was causing a problem I was having with my A/C not getting cold enough). After firing the truck back up with the new pump I got the following codes:
P0059 - HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P2197 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Code
P0645 - A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P1910 - (I'm seeing too many different definitions of this code)
I looked over some connectors, though I didn't touch any electrical connections during this process, and everything seemed fine, so all I could think to do was re-seat the connections on the PCM. I did have the PCM completely removed at one point to get better access to remove the passenger's side valve cover and all several weeks prior when I was doing all of the other work. After re-seating the PCM harnesses and clearing the codes P2197 didn't return but P0059, P1000 [OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete], and P1910 did.
I decided I'd just drive the car and see if things cleaned up again. After a few hundred miles of driving, and checking the codes here and there and clearing them, I'm getting certain codes some times, and other times I'm not. The ones that have remained consistent are P0059, AND P1000. I'm intermittently seeing U0121 [Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module], P0330 [Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2)], P2197, and P0351 [Ignition Coil "A" Primary/Secondary Circuit].
The car has been intermittently idling rough, and lacking power when several of these codes show up. A couple days ago when taking the car for a drive after re-seating the PCM harnesses again, about 20 minutes into my drive I came to a stop and when I tried to accelerate again the car literally crawled at maybe 2 MPH. I pulled over, shut the engine off, re-seated the connections again, and all seemed OK, but the codes remain.
Fuel economy has dropped a coupe MPG during all of this and I just can't seem to find the culprit. Today I inspected the pins on the PCM and noticed that PIN 30, labeled "Knock Sensor 2, signal - (negative)", was shorter than the rest, and bent slightly upward. I'm not sure if part of the pin broke off, or if possibly somehow got pushed back into the PCM some. I was able to straighten the pin (I didn't try pulling it outward) and connected the PCM harnesses again. I reset the codes and fired it back up, and for 20 minutes, to my surprise, the engine idled smoothly and no DTC's came up. I took the car for a ride, and then P0059, P1000, and P2197 returned. The knock sensor code hasn't come back up, so straightening that pin may have fixed that issue. But will all of the other various codes I've been getting I'm cautious about replacing the front driver's side O2 sensor in fear that it's not the problem, especially since that code has before come up and gone away when I first had the code show up after doing all of that work to the engine. I've seen a decrease in gas mileage over a bad O2 sensor before (or at least a DTC telling me I had a bad one), but I don't recall ever having intermittent rough idling issues due to a bad O2 sensor.
By the way, I did install a K&N air filter, and when thinking my 550 RPM idle was lower than it should be, I chalked it up to oil from the filter coating the MAF and throttle body. I cleaned the MAF (accidentally grabbed my nearly identical bottle of carb cleaner first, then a few minutes later noticed I used the wrong can and cleaned it again with electronics cleaner... hopefully I didn't damage the coating on the electronics of the MAF!), and then cleaned the throttle body which was surprisingly fairly clean. The K&N was put aside as I put the intake back together, and an AFE dry air filter was used. With that said, could much of this be a result of spraying the MAF with carb cleaner??
Is there anything else I should be looking at with these O2 sensor codes, or all of the other codes I've been seeing? Has anyone else ever seen these sporadic codes show up on their Expedition or Navigator?? Any direction in this mess would be really helpful. Sorry for the awfully long post, but wanted to be as descriptive as possible to help your guys' effort in helping me. Thanks a bunch!
-Andrew
After getting the engine fired back up it was running really rough and threw several DTC's. They all lead to lose fuel injector and COP connectors, and once I put a little more pressure and got them to click into place the engine was running great. I cleared the codes, but was getting a P2197 [O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Code]. Wasn't sure why/how that O2 sensor just started having problems so I took the car for a 1.5 hour drive to see if it would clear up. About 50-60 minutes into my drive the check engine light disappeared and didn't return over the next several weeks that I drove the car. So I chalked it up as a false positive.
Well, unfortunately my new power steering pump was bad, so after several weeks of no DTC's I got around to replacing the pump, and also replaced my heater control valve (had a suspicion it was causing a problem I was having with my A/C not getting cold enough). After firing the truck back up with the new pump I got the following codes:
P0059 - HO2S Heater Resistance (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P2197 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Code
P0645 - A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P1910 - (I'm seeing too many different definitions of this code)
I looked over some connectors, though I didn't touch any electrical connections during this process, and everything seemed fine, so all I could think to do was re-seat the connections on the PCM. I did have the PCM completely removed at one point to get better access to remove the passenger's side valve cover and all several weeks prior when I was doing all of the other work. After re-seating the PCM harnesses and clearing the codes P2197 didn't return but P0059, P1000 [OBDII Monitor Testing Not Complete], and P1910 did.
I decided I'd just drive the car and see if things cleaned up again. After a few hundred miles of driving, and checking the codes here and there and clearing them, I'm getting certain codes some times, and other times I'm not. The ones that have remained consistent are P0059, AND P1000. I'm intermittently seeing U0121 [Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module], P0330 [Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2)], P2197, and P0351 [Ignition Coil "A" Primary/Secondary Circuit].
The car has been intermittently idling rough, and lacking power when several of these codes show up. A couple days ago when taking the car for a drive after re-seating the PCM harnesses again, about 20 minutes into my drive I came to a stop and when I tried to accelerate again the car literally crawled at maybe 2 MPH. I pulled over, shut the engine off, re-seated the connections again, and all seemed OK, but the codes remain.
Fuel economy has dropped a coupe MPG during all of this and I just can't seem to find the culprit. Today I inspected the pins on the PCM and noticed that PIN 30, labeled "Knock Sensor 2, signal - (negative)", was shorter than the rest, and bent slightly upward. I'm not sure if part of the pin broke off, or if possibly somehow got pushed back into the PCM some. I was able to straighten the pin (I didn't try pulling it outward) and connected the PCM harnesses again. I reset the codes and fired it back up, and for 20 minutes, to my surprise, the engine idled smoothly and no DTC's came up. I took the car for a ride, and then P0059, P1000, and P2197 returned. The knock sensor code hasn't come back up, so straightening that pin may have fixed that issue. But will all of the other various codes I've been getting I'm cautious about replacing the front driver's side O2 sensor in fear that it's not the problem, especially since that code has before come up and gone away when I first had the code show up after doing all of that work to the engine. I've seen a decrease in gas mileage over a bad O2 sensor before (or at least a DTC telling me I had a bad one), but I don't recall ever having intermittent rough idling issues due to a bad O2 sensor.
By the way, I did install a K&N air filter, and when thinking my 550 RPM idle was lower than it should be, I chalked it up to oil from the filter coating the MAF and throttle body. I cleaned the MAF (accidentally grabbed my nearly identical bottle of carb cleaner first, then a few minutes later noticed I used the wrong can and cleaned it again with electronics cleaner... hopefully I didn't damage the coating on the electronics of the MAF!), and then cleaned the throttle body which was surprisingly fairly clean. The K&N was put aside as I put the intake back together, and an AFE dry air filter was used. With that said, could much of this be a result of spraying the MAF with carb cleaner??
Is there anything else I should be looking at with these O2 sensor codes, or all of the other codes I've been seeing? Has anyone else ever seen these sporadic codes show up on their Expedition or Navigator?? Any direction in this mess would be really helpful. Sorry for the awfully long post, but wanted to be as descriptive as possible to help your guys' effort in helping me. Thanks a bunch!
-Andrew
#2
What type of scantool do you have access to? Is it a bluetooth one? Using FORScan on either Windows or Android/iOS might give you better information about the codes you're seeing, specially the P1910 which has different meanings, probably depending on which module and a sub code or something. A sub code would be P1910-XX, where a DTC list would refer to the -XX part to give the correct information.
#3
#4
Assuming a 6-speed (6HP26), that DTC indicates an issue with the PCM's sensing of the backup lamp circuit operation.
#5
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