I now use pennzoil in all my vehicles and equipment. I have used motorcraft, castrol gtx, trop artic and valvoline in different vehicles over the years. There is alot of choices out there just looking for personal preference on brand or if you just get whatever is on sale.

 

It's almost impossible to go wrong with any oil these days. But, I run Rotella T6 5W-40 in my 5.0. It's had a pure diet of Rotella synthetic 5W-40 for around 3 years or more, now.

 

I've used the specified viscosity & service grade Havoline 10w-30 or 5w-30, in my vehicles, with push rod or over head cam engines, or the specified straight 30wt in my lawn equipt with valve in head, or over head valve designs, for more than 50 years now, no sludge, no gum, no varnish, No Problems!!!!!

I have a 1956 Craftsman walk behind mower with a valve in head Briggs & Stratton engine that uses the dip & splash crank case lube design, with an oil wetted/bath type air filter, thats been operated on straight 20-30wt Havoline thats changed yearly.

Lots of good quality engine oil out there now, including synthetics, use the specified viscosity range & service grade, in a brand thats known for producing a good consistant product, or if your into pinching pennys, buy the specified service & viscosity grade with the lowest on sale price, thats a name brand product & change it & a quality filter as specified by the vehicle mfgr for the type driving we do & enjoy the ride.

 

I agree seems like any oil that actually meets the gf-5 sn specification is good oil.
There are a few frauds that pqia has uncovered but none of them are brands I have
seen on the shelves in my area. When my friends complain about not having enough money to change their oil I recommend super tech, quaker state or the O'Reilly special of the month. And yes it is way more expensive to not change your oil but
some people just don't seem to understand that.

 

my pre mod engines I use quakerstate, the mod engine I use MC...I look at price vs quality.

 

Meijer 5w20 full synthetic.O Reilly's5w20 full synthetic. NAPA5w20 full synthetic. TSC Traveller 5w20 full synthetic. Which ever is on sale.

 

Chevron Supreme (often on sale) in late model gasoline engines, Chevron Delo 400 in everything else, except motorcycles with wet clutches because the moly may cause slippage. Rotella T is currently in the Yamaha.

Except for limited special applications, you cant go wrong with any API licenced oil of the correct viscosity and service designation (SL, CJ-4, JASO MA) today.

 

SL is outdated.SN is required in 2011 models.SN offers protection to cam phasers.

 

I was only using SL as an example. What is a cam phaser?

 

pennzoil, usually 5w30. been using the high-milage formula the past few years. Dad always ran pennzoil, so i guess thats how i went with it. i imagine alot have done the same. realistically though, pick a "oil" and use the correct viscosity for the application, stick with it, use a good filter, and pay attention to your maintenence intervals and chances are you wont have a oil-related issue down the road.

 

A cam phaser is a modified cam gear.It is used on vvt engines.The lube channels are small.A good oil is needed.

 

Shell Rotella (either 15w-40 in the summer or T5 10w-30 in the winter) cause it is usually the cheapest thing there.

 

I ahave always been happy with mobil 1 . Using 5 w30 in the f250 for a long time now. tried pennzoil platinum , i had oil consumption issues.

 

Quaker State green bottle in all of my vehicles

 

Brad penn and Val VR1 both have all the zinc you need.