Whats your oil of choice?
#16
12-22-2011, 08:20 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#20
03-01-2012, 10:09 PM
#21
03-02-2012, 09:26 AM
#25
03-04-2012, 11:28 AM
I worked for a Texaco jobber for ten years and in that time got to see lots of non-public info on various oils that were tested against Texaco products.
Two brands I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole are Quaker State and Amalie. I've personally seen engines torn down that looked like they were filled with wax that ran these oils. Conoco motor oils were very sub-standard as well. Also, be wary of 'recycled' motor oils. Some companies do a decent job of this and some simply filter burnt oil, add some fresh base to it and rebottle it.
Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, and Texaco Havoline (for gas engines) or Ursa (for diesel engines) are my preferred choices for conventional motor oils. Mobil One is a great synthetic. I've put 1000 hard hours on a Polaris Ranger on my ranch and haven't ever had to add oil between changes on a 100 hour cycle. Exxon had a really good oil as well (Supra?), but I think it's been discontinued since Mobil bought them out.
Dealer oil brands like Motorcraft are made by what ever oil company they contract with. For many years Texaco had the Ford contract, but I don't know who has it now. Whoever makes the oil would blend it to Ford's specs.
Also, it is NOT advisable to mix oil brands in an engine. Not all additives are compatible. Some oils, when mixed, will 'clabber'. It looks a lot like clabbered milk. Try to pick an oil you like and stay with it.
One last tip an oil engineer gave me once: when you add oil, be it motor oil, trans oil, etc., shake the bottle before you open it. Oil contains microscopic particles of copper, brass, and other metals. It is possible for it to sit on a shelf long enough to settle these important additives to the bottom of the bottle.
Two brands I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole are Quaker State and Amalie. I've personally seen engines torn down that looked like they were filled with wax that ran these oils. Conoco motor oils were very sub-standard as well. Also, be wary of 'recycled' motor oils. Some companies do a decent job of this and some simply filter burnt oil, add some fresh base to it and rebottle it.
Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, and Texaco Havoline (for gas engines) or Ursa (for diesel engines) are my preferred choices for conventional motor oils. Mobil One is a great synthetic. I've put 1000 hard hours on a Polaris Ranger on my ranch and haven't ever had to add oil between changes on a 100 hour cycle. Exxon had a really good oil as well (Supra?), but I think it's been discontinued since Mobil bought them out.
Dealer oil brands like Motorcraft are made by what ever oil company they contract with. For many years Texaco had the Ford contract, but I don't know who has it now. Whoever makes the oil would blend it to Ford's specs.
Also, it is NOT advisable to mix oil brands in an engine. Not all additives are compatible. Some oils, when mixed, will 'clabber'. It looks a lot like clabbered milk. Try to pick an oil you like and stay with it.
One last tip an oil engineer gave me once: when you add oil, be it motor oil, trans oil, etc., shake the bottle before you open it. Oil contains microscopic particles of copper, brass, and other metals. It is possible for it to sit on a shelf long enough to settle these important additives to the bottom of the bottle.
#26
03-04-2012, 01:28 PM
I worked for a Texaco jobber for ten years and in that time got to see lots of non-public info on various oils that were tested against Texaco products.
Two brands I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole are Quaker State and Amalie. I've personally seen engines torn down that looked like they were filled with wax that ran these oils. Conoco motor oils were very sub-standard as well. Also, be wary of 'recycled' motor oils. Some companies do a decent job of this and some simply filter burnt oil, add some fresh base to it and rebottle it.
Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, and Texaco Havoline (for gas engines) or Ursa (for diesel engines) are my preferred choices for conventional motor oils. Mobil One is a great synthetic. I've put 1000 hard hours on a Polaris Ranger on my ranch and haven't ever had to add oil between changes on a 100 hour cycle. Exxon had a really good oil as well (Supra?), but I think it's been discontinued since Mobil bought them out.
Dealer oil brands like Motorcraft are made by what ever oil company they contract with. For many years Texaco had the Ford contract, but I don't know who has it now. Whoever makes the oil would blend it to Ford's specs.
Also, it is NOT advisable to mix oil brands in an engine. Not all additives are compatible. Some oils, when mixed, will 'clabber'. It looks a lot like clabbered milk. Try to pick an oil you like and stay with it.
One last tip an oil engineer gave me once: when you add oil, be it motor oil, trans oil, etc., shake the bottle before you open it. Oil contains microscopic particles of copper, brass, and other metals. It is possible for it to sit on a shelf long enough to settle these important additives to the bottom of the bottle.
Two brands I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole are Quaker State and Amalie. I've personally seen engines torn down that looked like they were filled with wax that ran these oils. Conoco motor oils were very sub-standard as well. Also, be wary of 'recycled' motor oils. Some companies do a decent job of this and some simply filter burnt oil, add some fresh base to it and rebottle it.
Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, and Texaco Havoline (for gas engines) or Ursa (for diesel engines) are my preferred choices for conventional motor oils. Mobil One is a great synthetic. I've put 1000 hard hours on a Polaris Ranger on my ranch and haven't ever had to add oil between changes on a 100 hour cycle. Exxon had a really good oil as well (Supra?), but I think it's been discontinued since Mobil bought them out.
Dealer oil brands like Motorcraft are made by what ever oil company they contract with. For many years Texaco had the Ford contract, but I don't know who has it now. Whoever makes the oil would blend it to Ford's specs.
Also, it is NOT advisable to mix oil brands in an engine. Not all additives are compatible. Some oils, when mixed, will 'clabber'. It looks a lot like clabbered milk. Try to pick an oil you like and stay with it.
One last tip an oil engineer gave me once: when you add oil, be it motor oil, trans oil, etc., shake the bottle before you open it. Oil contains microscopic particles of copper, brass, and other metals. It is possible for it to sit on a shelf long enough to settle these important additives to the bottom of the bottle.
#28
03-04-2012, 03:32 PM
Logistics Pro
One last tip an oil engineer gave me once: when you add oil, be it motor oil, trans oil, etc., shake the bottle before you open it. Oil contains microscopic particles of copper, brass, and other metals. It is possible for it to sit on a shelf long enough to settle these important additives to the bottom of the bottle.
#30
03-05-2012, 12:23 AM
I've seen warnings about additives that have to be shaken before adding,don't use them! I don't know of anything in motor oils that will settle. Different brands will mix without a problem. The U.S. Military demands that oils they buy be compatable. Uncle Sam buys a lot of oil so it's best to do what he says. I've mixed brands and changed brands many times in my F250. At 177 thousand miles it purrs like a cat in the kitchen when I cook bacon.