69 F350 Bump Side Crew Cab Restoration
#121
This thing is going to be so cool. I went to home depot and bought paint stripper for $22 per gallon. it makes a huge mess but it works. Once it gets the paint somewhat off to mostly off after a few applications with a brush, I washed it off and then used a orbital sander to get down to the metal. It is messy and time consuming but saves some $. My guess is you would have about $250 in materials.
So I am a little confused? Are you doing a 12v 6bt now? or a 4BT
So I am a little confused? Are you doing a 12v 6bt now? or a 4BT
#122
This thing is going to be so cool. I went to home depot and bought paint stripper for $22 per gallon. it makes a huge mess but it works. Once it gets the paint somewhat off to mostly off after a few applications with a brush, I washed it off and then used a orbital sander to get down to the metal. It is messy and time consuming but saves some $. My guess is you would have about $250 in materials.
So I am a little confused? Are you doing a 12v 6bt now? or a 4BT
So I am a little confused? Are you doing a 12v 6bt now? or a 4BT
I did the 4bt already. It went in my 03 F150 supercrew 2wd. it's the family vehicle burning veg everyday. It has saved a bunch of fuel money.
I've considered sanding and the stripper approach, but the guy with 3 decades of experience said that a blasted vehicle gets much better adhesion than does the sanded approach because the metal becomes so smooth with sanding whereas the blasted surface is much more textured. Just weighing it all out. Thanks
#123
Sounds like your talking to the right guy!
I did the 4bt already. It went in my 03 F150 supercrew 2wd. it's the family vehicle burning veg everyday. It has saved a bunch of fuel money.
I've considered sanding and the stripper approach, but the guy with 3 decades of experience said that a blasted vehicle gets much better adhesion than does the sanded approach because the metal becomes so smooth with sanding whereas the blasted surface is much more textured. Just weighing it all out. Thanks
I've considered sanding and the stripper approach, but the guy with 3 decades of experience said that a blasted vehicle gets much better adhesion than does the sanded approach because the metal becomes so smooth with sanding whereas the blasted surface is much more textured. Just weighing it all out. Thanks
#124
Looks like that'll be the route I go. I called the dipper back yesterday and He said that the EPA had gotten so hard on them that they didn't want to deal with it anymore. He and his brother are both in their 60's and no one wants to buy the company being in the hood. They are finishing their back log and closing that side of the business.
#125
#126
small update
I have been slowly collecting parts to hopefully get a little more work done. I've been working on a Jeep project with one of my sons and getting in a little hunting time with all three of the kids so "work" time has been non-existent. BUT, I have no regrets. The ole 69 should still be around when they've all moved on to their own pursuit of God's will for their life.
Anyway, here's the latest:
I picked up a 12V P-pumped motor and sold my VE motor for the same money I have in the P-pumped motor. It has only 75K original miles. I pulled pan and cross hatching is visible on all cylinders from the bottom. The pump was untouched. Came out of a totaled 1-ton.
I picked up a few parts to pep up the P-pumped motor. I have a 351CW turbo to add to her so I grabbed a boost control elbow since the turbo is waste gated at 25 psi, I have some 60# valve springs for the 4000 RPM governor spring I picked up and a #4 fuel plate from TST products. I hope to crank engine on the stand soon and add the mods a little later on.
BTW- my built 47RH came it and is sitting on the floor waiting on a clean up and inspection- supposedly only at 25-30k on it. Has Billet imput, triple disc and valve body mods.
Anyway, here's the latest:
I picked up a 12V P-pumped motor and sold my VE motor for the same money I have in the P-pumped motor. It has only 75K original miles. I pulled pan and cross hatching is visible on all cylinders from the bottom. The pump was untouched. Came out of a totaled 1-ton.
I picked up a few parts to pep up the P-pumped motor. I have a 351CW turbo to add to her so I grabbed a boost control elbow since the turbo is waste gated at 25 psi, I have some 60# valve springs for the 4000 RPM governor spring I picked up and a #4 fuel plate from TST products. I hope to crank engine on the stand soon and add the mods a little later on.
BTW- my built 47RH came it and is sitting on the floor waiting on a clean up and inspection- supposedly only at 25-30k on it. Has Billet imput, triple disc and valve body mods.
#128
#130
Man, thanks for the offer. I'm actually parting with the whole project. My kids are 20, 18, and 16. I'm trying to get them in/through college and spend as much time with them as i can. I don't have the $5-7K or 300 hours to get it where i want it. Perhaps someone else can benefit from your generosity.
#132
#133