When you changed the starter did the problem go away for awhile then come back? Was the starter OEM from ford or from another store.

 

Yes, Also check the conection for the relay that gets the signal from the key when you turn it. The wire will be much smaller and normally on a bolt sticking out of the solonoid. It could be coroded.

Disregard my previous post, i didnt see that you wherent getting voltage across the fire wall solonoid.

 

Connections are good and clean on the relay. I did that prior to having the starter changed in august, the mechanic also noticed how clean they were. The smaller wire (angled and coated with rubber) that's in between the two larger ones is also clean and no rust with a nice tight fit.
Hopefully the relay was the culprit, time will tell I guess. I'm going out now, going to take into town for a spin, hope I don't have to hitch a ride back

Really not sure what make starter when in there, I'll check my bill.

 

to the new starter being faulty, it could be i put a brand new starter on my truck from O'riellys (not a reman it was BRAND NEW) and it went from clicking to staying engaged, so it could be a new starter messed up aswell... i put another new one in it and it is now working fine

 

I'll keep an open mind on the starter possibility.

 

Since I've changed the starter relay, it hasn't burped yet. Sounds like the relay was the problem....

 

Just jumping in here...97 F150 4x4 4.2L 6cyl... Same dreaded Click sound.
Removed starter motor, tested ok at local parts store. Cleaned all connections, especially ground connection on frame just inside passenger wheel well - was BAD. Good to go for two weeks. Again, Click... Did not test firewall solenoid but will replace next...multiple discussions and this Forum suggest consensus on firewall solenoid.

 

Yeah, all I did was hold a test lamp on the left bolt and had someone try to start. Then again on the right side bolt and turn key to start. The test light must light on both sides for the engine to turn over. When my engine wouldn't turn over, one side would not light (think it was the right side, facing the firewall). I read that it's like the solenoid is engaging (click sound) but either not enough or contacts inside are corroded, worn, dirty or partially broken.
Please report back on your findings.
Good luck.

 

Update:
Should have put my multi-meter to work...

Replaced starter relay (firewall) and battery.
(Old battery tested good, almost 5 years old)

In handling the battery wires/terminals again/more, the negative terminal did not tighten properly, could rotate terminal on post. Gave it that little extra and it broke...this was the thin, lead-free terminal, not the big honkin' leaded type...
Replaced that terminal with an aftermarket big honkin' leaded type...so far no "Click". Starts every time, but only one day...
Note - used wire brush to polish the copper strands and sprayed generously with CRC electrical cleaner - the strands were bad!

Also, just because, replaced Fuse 21, 15a, Starter Relay...

I decided to replace the starter motor and it's solenoid too...will do that later in the week when the rain stops...my gut is just tellin' me...1997, 67k miles but lots of hard use...short runs, stops/starts...for $100 bucks, a new starter motor can't hurt...

In the end, I believe it was the negative terminal on the battery giving me intermittent trouble due to loose connection. Starter relay may have been implicated but I really don't know...

Even though I spent more than I wanted/expected, I'm satisfied, and comfortable with the new parts.

 

If you get no wind of the starter, bridge the terminals on the solenoid with the handles of a pair of pliers. If it winds it's the solenoid that's bad. If the pliers get hot real quick the starter has a problem. Your battery should show 12.6 or better if it is charged. When it's running it should be 14.5
Hit the key multiple times when you try to start it. My trucks will be a no wind once in a while. I just click it 5 times and it does go. I have replaced the starter solenoid. I think some trucks just have a gremlin in the system. No rhyme or reason to what it does! You clean and protect connections and it still does it!

 

Thanks Mickirig1 for your insight.
I got the dreaded Click again last night, . Fiddled with the shifter and it fired...so I guess I'll move on to the transmission interlock, about a $40 part I think... I haven't heard anyone comment about the key/switch cylinder...this one has had a lot of hard use... Stay tuned for next chapter...

 

Whats funny is, I will have the thought, " The truck has not done it for a while". The next day click-click-click-click-click start! So I quit thinking that! Some day I should just break down and replace the $150 starter. I have never had an ignition switch problem yet. I know it's getting a connection because it clicks.

 

....This is splitting hairs but here is why the repeated clicks take place.
....As you call for cranking, the start relay comes up on the voltage available.
....As soon as the starter is connected, the voltage goes down due to the low resistance load from the starter.
....This drops the voltage available below the relay 'hold-up' value such that the relay drops out and disconnects the starter load.
....The cycle repeats all over again with the voltage available riseing enough to allow the relay to pull up again.
....This is the repeated clicking you hear.
....Any fault in the system that goes high resistance or excessive loading like a jamb from the starter can cause this.
....Those causes are corroded cables and terminal, a broken inter cell strap inside the battery, cable ends, starter cable or internal fault causing a higher than normal current draw.
....The hint that a battery is possibly bad or cable/ post connections are the cause will be seen if the interior lights are on and they go out.
....They go out because the voltage has been 'all dropped' accross a fault at some point.
....If the interior lights don't go out, the cause is a starter or burnt open starter relay contacts and there normally won't be any repeated clicking.
....Interior lights with no cranking is not a test the battery is good because they don't take enough current to show up the fault unless the battery charge is quite low..
Good luck.

 

Thanks Bluegrass7.
Not sure what Mickirig1 is trying to get at...
(For the record, had the starter motor tested, Green Light...but this is the nature of intermittent electrical problems, they are intermittent and difficult to get to root cause...)
For the record, it is one loud click, no click-click-click...
Will keep reporting here if it adds value...

 

....I've not followed the thread to close but the one click you get is symtomatic of a poor battery cable connection at a post or the start relay contact are burnt or a cable is corroded under the insulation..
....If your interior lights go out on a test start, this confirms the condition of a problem between the battery and the start relay..
....Here is what can happen in some instances from a lose or corroded cable connection.
....The high current drawn by the starter can actually melt the lead between the cable end and the post in small pockets from the heat generated at the point of just the right resistance.
....The lead cools and forms a bond between the cable and the post allowing for what seems like a good start the next time only the fail again later.
....The tip off to this is the posts and/or the cable ends looks like a termite was eating at it. Those pits are where the lead has melted out from the heat.
....To drive this home a bit better, consider that at 12 volts times 150 amps +/- starter current = 1800 watts +/- of power consentrated in a small areas like that during cranking.
....Many of us tend to let the system go to long instead of cleaning up the cables and terminal once in awhile to prevent these things from happening.
.
....Good luck. You will get it at some point, i'm sure.