Compression Numbers?
#1
Compression Numbers?
I'm going to look at an '88 F-250 diesel with the manual transmission. I've been out of the IDI game for a while now but if memory serves that should be a 7.3L and a ZF5, right?
I know to check the coolant with test strips, but the mileage of the truck is unknown so I'm going to ask him if I can run a compression test. What's good compression these days?
Like I said, It's been a while.
I know the IDI basics - Beru/Motorcraft glow plugs, 0/00 battery cables, cut the insulation near the terminals to check for corrosion, use a gear reduction starter, replace a broken controller with a 5 second push button, leaky water removers, etc.
But I really just need to know what compression I should expect. I'll probably also do the "paper suction" test, where you hold a piece of paper above the dipstick tube and see if it gets sucked in or blown out.
Thanks guys. I can't wait to re-join the IDI world. My '67 mustang is parked for the winter and driving a $500 Hyundai is killing me.
-Matt
I know to check the coolant with test strips, but the mileage of the truck is unknown so I'm going to ask him if I can run a compression test. What's good compression these days?
Like I said, It's been a while.
I know the IDI basics - Beru/Motorcraft glow plugs, 0/00 battery cables, cut the insulation near the terminals to check for corrosion, use a gear reduction starter, replace a broken controller with a 5 second push button, leaky water removers, etc.
But I really just need to know what compression I should expect. I'll probably also do the "paper suction" test, where you hold a piece of paper above the dipstick tube and see if it gets sucked in or blown out.
Thanks guys. I can't wait to re-join the IDI world. My '67 mustang is parked for the winter and driving a $500 Hyundai is killing me.
-Matt
#2
It should have the 7.3 GP controller system.........as for 5 second pushbutton that would not be my choice...... let the solid state system do it as required.
As for the compression test..... you will have to remove the GPs. If they are NOT Beru Motorcraft then you may drop a tip into the cylinder on removal.... Who will pay for the head removal to get it out??????
Compression numbers can range from minimum 195 to max 440 PSI you will need a diesel specific tester with proper adapter. Note; the lowest cylinder MUST be 70% of the highest.
As for the compression test..... you will have to remove the GPs. If they are NOT Beru Motorcraft then you may drop a tip into the cylinder on removal.... Who will pay for the head removal to get it out??????
Compression numbers can range from minimum 195 to max 440 PSI you will need a diesel specific tester with proper adapter. Note; the lowest cylinder MUST be 70% of the highest.
#3
It should have the 7.3 GP controller system.........as for 5 second pushbutton that would not be my choice...... let the solid state system do it as required.
As for the compression test..... you will have to remove the GPs. If they are NOT Beru Motorcraft then you may drop a tip into the cylinder on removal.... Who will pay for the head removal to get it out??????
Compression numbers can range from minimum 195 to max 440 PSI you will need a diesel specific tester with proper adapter. Note; the lowest cylinder MUST be 70% of the highest.
As for the compression test..... you will have to remove the GPs. If they are NOT Beru Motorcraft then you may drop a tip into the cylinder on removal.... Who will pay for the head removal to get it out??????
Compression numbers can range from minimum 195 to max 440 PSI you will need a diesel specific tester with proper adapter. Note; the lowest cylinder MUST be 70% of the highest.
Thanks for the reminder. If I buy the truck I'll dig out some of my old deep well sockets and weld them to the glowplugs so I can pull while I twist. That seems to be the best way.
-Matt
#4
#5
Well, I came home empty handed.
They had a hell of a time starting the engine. There were two salesmen and a lot attendant trying to start it with jump packs. I tried to point out that it wasn't enough electricity and they kind of blew me off. I offered to jump it with my own rig four times before they went and got cables. It took them 45 minutes to get the truck started.
So it needed two new batteries, glowplugs, and possibly a controller. The filter assembly was leaking fuel as well.
I took it out for a drive and it actually pulled well. Had some trouble with the clutch and rough shifting. I got it back and there was a "SMACK SMACK SMACK SMACK" sound idling with the clutch pedal out. I showed it to the salesman.
He offered it to me for $800. I said I'd think about it. I came back and offered him $600. His boss turned the offer down and counter offered for $950 plus fees. I stood up and told him to scrap it as I went out the door.
The truck's worth saving, and I know a dealership is in business to make money. But they'd be hard pressed to find someone who will pay $1000 in it's condition. Unknown mileage, bad tires, bad clutch, MAJOR starting issues, faulty fuel gauge, non-working e-brake, etc etc etc.
Oh well. I'll find another.
They had a hell of a time starting the engine. There were two salesmen and a lot attendant trying to start it with jump packs. I tried to point out that it wasn't enough electricity and they kind of blew me off. I offered to jump it with my own rig four times before they went and got cables. It took them 45 minutes to get the truck started.
So it needed two new batteries, glowplugs, and possibly a controller. The filter assembly was leaking fuel as well.
I took it out for a drive and it actually pulled well. Had some trouble with the clutch and rough shifting. I got it back and there was a "SMACK SMACK SMACK SMACK" sound idling with the clutch pedal out. I showed it to the salesman.
He offered it to me for $800. I said I'd think about it. I came back and offered him $600. His boss turned the offer down and counter offered for $950 plus fees. I stood up and told him to scrap it as I went out the door.
The truck's worth saving, and I know a dealership is in business to make money. But they'd be hard pressed to find someone who will pay $1000 in it's condition. Unknown mileage, bad tires, bad clutch, MAJOR starting issues, faulty fuel gauge, non-working e-brake, etc etc etc.
Oh well. I'll find another.
#6
A tight 6.9 can be 500+. I haven't ever checked my 7.3. I will check it sometime. It should be pretty high. It will start on 0 deg. days with no problem and no block heater. One thing is that you be pretty even on your numbers. Don't know if there was ever a spec published on these engines. Diesel engine companies don't publish numbers as a general rule.
#7
Dont let it get away!
Call them everyday and repeat your $600 offer until they accept.
My $1000 89 7.3 needed front brake pads, a new rubber transmission line where it goes into the radiator, the blower motor hooked up to the battery with a fuse and a switch (fusues blow on radio, horn and blower motor) a new glow plug (it was Autolite...as are the rest probably) an oil change and a new alternator belt.
Call them everyday and repeat your $600 offer until they accept.
My $1000 89 7.3 needed front brake pads, a new rubber transmission line where it goes into the radiator, the blower motor hooked up to the battery with a fuse and a switch (fusues blow on radio, horn and blower motor) a new glow plug (it was Autolite...as are the rest probably) an oil change and a new alternator belt.
Well, I came home empty handed.
They had a hell of a time starting the engine. There were two salesmen and a lot attendant trying to start it with jump packs. I tried to point out that it wasn't enough electricity and they kind of blew me off. I offered to jump it with my own rig four times before they went and got cables. It took them 45 minutes to get the truck started.
So it needed two new batteries, glowplugs, and possibly a controller. The filter assembly was leaking fuel as well.
I took it out for a drive and it actually pulled well. Had some trouble with the clutch and rough shifting. I got it back and there was a "SMACK SMACK SMACK SMACK" sound idling with the clutch pedal out. I showed it to the salesman.
He offered it to me for $800. I said I'd think about it. I came back and offered him $600. His boss turned the offer down and counter offered for $950 plus fees. I stood up and told him to scrap it as I went out the door.
The truck's worth saving, and I know a dealership is in business to make money. But they'd be hard pressed to find someone who will pay $1000 in it's condition. Unknown mileage, bad tires, bad clutch, MAJOR starting issues, faulty fuel gauge, non-working e-brake, etc etc etc.
Oh well. I'll find another.
They had a hell of a time starting the engine. There were two salesmen and a lot attendant trying to start it with jump packs. I tried to point out that it wasn't enough electricity and they kind of blew me off. I offered to jump it with my own rig four times before they went and got cables. It took them 45 minutes to get the truck started.
So it needed two new batteries, glowplugs, and possibly a controller. The filter assembly was leaking fuel as well.
I took it out for a drive and it actually pulled well. Had some trouble with the clutch and rough shifting. I got it back and there was a "SMACK SMACK SMACK SMACK" sound idling with the clutch pedal out. I showed it to the salesman.
He offered it to me for $800. I said I'd think about it. I came back and offered him $600. His boss turned the offer down and counter offered for $950 plus fees. I stood up and told him to scrap it as I went out the door.
The truck's worth saving, and I know a dealership is in business to make money. But they'd be hard pressed to find someone who will pay $1000 in it's condition. Unknown mileage, bad tires, bad clutch, MAJOR starting issues, faulty fuel gauge, non-working e-brake, etc etc etc.
Oh well. I'll find another.
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