Tailgate77478 I have a question for you. Im experiencing the same problem which I noticed after my truck ran out of fuel. I have 169K miles on it and sure I have junk in the tank.
So can you tell me where to disconect the fuel line so I can blow air back to the tank? Im not a Diesel guy so need a little assistance here.

 

If you crawl under your truck on the drivers side, the fuel pump will be below the driver's seat area along the frame rail. Just follow the fuel line coming from the rear. You're going to want to have a fuel line disconnect tool if you still have the OEM fuel lines on there...but they're cheap at any parts store. So disconnect the fuel line coming from the tank, and use an air hose. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE TAKEN YOUR GAS CAP OFF FIRST. Also, you don't want a full tank, or it will come shooting out (ask me how I know).

Sorry I don't have a picture of the fuel pump...maybe someone else can post one.

 

The connector on the fuel supply line to the rear of the pump is not the typical quick-connect type.
All you need is the right size flat blade screwdriver.

 

Thanks guys for the input. Was easy to do and had it finished within 5 minutes. Took it out and still experience the shutter or vibration.

I have a road thats a gradual climb for a few miles. Set my cruise at 30 and gradually brought it up. At 42mph and stayed a steady vibration and continued until around 50.

Any other thoughts?

 

might have to check uvch. under the valve cover, see if its coming lose. sometimes that the problem. it well do the same thing.

 

how do u know which injector is bad.

 

I have someone pulling the valve covers tomorrow to inspect the wire harness.
Did however discover the IPC sensor is leaking Oil. I unplugged it expecting a light to come on and nothing. Didnt even affect how it ran. Not sure if that can be the issue.

 

The injectors are a HEUI system so there can be either or both an electrical or hydraulic issue.

HEUI - Hydraulically operated Electronically controlled Unitized Injectors.

Electrical issue:

Perform a buzz test.

Hydraulic issue:

Each injector has a oil discharge spout where the oil not needed returns to the top of the head and drains back to the pan. A bad injector will not be discharging as much oil as a good one. So one way to check for a bad injector is to compare injector oil discharge with VCs removed and engine at idle.

You can also check to see if oil is leaking out of the top of the injector bore which would mean an upper o-ring seal leak.

Other injector o-ring issues will cause different symptoms.

 

Wow. Ok had the Valve covers pulled. Eveything checked out. He did the 25 cent trick on both sides.

So now its worse and the Check Engine light is now on. Shudder starts at 30 MPH now, rough idle and a loss of power. He's getting a guy to bring in a scanner over the weekend to see if he can pull a code. Any thoughts?

 

What ever came of this I am experiencing the same problems however my water fuel light is on and it has been drained.

 

I understand this is a very old thread but what was the fix for this? I have two 7.3 a 99 and an 02 that are doing the same thing. Please let me know. Thanks

 

You will likely have better luck starting a new thread laying out your symptoms and what you've done so far, than trying to raise the dead here. Let us know what's going on and we'll see if we can help.

 

Probably high jacking your thread. I have a 1999 f350 quad cap 2wd drw automatic with a rebuilt engine not broke in yet, with new stock Alliant injectors. Engine seems to be missing (shaking) a bit seems to run ok at high rpms but at low rpm as soon as it shifts into 3rd gear it starts to shutter and the more pedal you give it the worse it gets unless you can get it to down shift or press the tow button. I have already previously cleaned out the plugged screens in tank and installed a new fuel pump and filter in bowl. I pulled the covers off to check injectors again looking for a smoking gun but found not. Figured I may as well check compression before putting covers back on again. I know thats all redundant but Ive gotten into the habbit of not overlooking something just because it is new, rather more like what could cause this problem. I gotta say got me scratching.

 

These old threads don't really get much action. You tend to have better luck starting a new thread laying out your issues and the diagnostics you've done so far, but here goes. If the problem only shows itself after a transmission shift, I'd be watching transmission PID's. Also, are you sure it's a gear change and not TC lockup that's triggering your studder?