Hi everybody, I'm restoring a 56 year old steering wheel that has numerous thin cracks. I am curious if others may have alternate methods. I plan to fill the cracks by first using a small file to enlarge them and then fill with JB Weld. After the JB hardens, I plan to use a dremel tool to first grind the repaired spots and then using 100 grit sand paper to get the final smooth finish. After the sanding, I plan to paint with primer and put on a coat of color followed by a coat of clear.

Does anybody have an alternate method or product that may be superior? Easier? Faster?

Thanks, Jag

 

I am wishing that I could use my original steering wheel on my Bronco II steering column, but have no idea if I can make that happen or not. I would have to do some repairs like this also, so i'm jumping on this thread.
I don't know what the wheel is originally made out of, but I did some repairs to a plastic instrument housing for my '84 Honda V65 Sabre. There were chunks missing, found this repair technique. I used ABS cement as a filler,like body filler, and it worked great for that. I was thinking about trying the same thing on the wheel, because it worked so well on the guage pods, but again I don't know if it would adhere to it, just because I don't know what it is made of. I saw a thread here the other day where someone bored out the center of the wheel and tig welded an insert to adapt to a newer column. meant to jump on that as well, and will eventually.
The guage pods are made of ABS so the ABS glue is made of ABS fillers. I just formed up the missing areas with metal tape, cut more tape to stick adhesive side to adhesive side. and then applied the glue in thin layers to build it up. After its all dry(took a few days) pulled the tape and did some shaping/ finishing with a dremel, and it was awesome!

 

Eastwood has a steering wheel repair kit..

 

Hey Jag, have you ever heard the phrase, "Great minds think alike"? Well you just described the EXACT method I plan to use on my steering wheels (I have 2), so either we have great minds or we're both heading down the same blind alley.

 

All right all, that's good input. I had never even heard about using ABS glue. I wonder if I should try both ways to see if one is preferable? The only drawback would be that I would have to buy two products instead of one. Sometimes I'm so tight that I squeek. Any others with input? Jag

 

I would prefer to find out what the steering wheel is made of. I wouldn't have a problem with using JB weld myself. I used some on the frame to cover up some weld-plugged holes. One thing I was thinking about though, there is gonna be some flex in a steering wheel. How does a repair product hold up to the flex? I am also gonna check out that Eastwood thing. I am not opinionated on the repair material either way or..just trying to find out what does it right the first time. Thanks for the ride here

 

My steering wheel is coated in some sort of black plastic. It resembles ABS and smells like rubber when you file it. This is the second time that I have repaired this steering wheel. In 1993 I followed the same method with the exception of using a two-part epoxy to fill the cracks. That held up pretty well until new cracking started to appear a couple of years ago. I can report that most of the cracks are new, located in the black plastic and that it's not the epoxy that is cracking. But, I do notice the cracks are immediately adjascent to epoxy filled repairs. So, are the new cracks happening because the epoxy doesn't flex enough or just because that's the part of the steering wheel that has the most stress on it? Jag

 

That is my concern with any repair, especially JB Weld because it will not flex, which may lead to more cracks elsewhere in the wheel. However, I too squeak when I walk (according to my wife) so I will probably try JB on one wheel.

 

I am not an expert on this at all, but my guess would be due to flex and not having a truly complete bond. Kind of like a weld that didn't have good penetration. I would say the flex would be the prime problem though. They flex alot! Of course how does anybody notice? By flexing the thing when you are in those wierd...wondering...moods! yeah, I do wierd stuff like that sometimes. I wonder what's wrong with me, at times!
edit: I have though several times about asking Josh and Havi to let me know when a room opens up!

 

I've had good success with two part solid epoxy. It comes in a hot dog sized stick. You tear off a piece and knead the piece together. Press it into the properly prepared crack and when it dries sand, prime, and paint. Eastwoods kit is pretty high dollar for what you get, you're paying alot for instructions and sandpaper.

 

I vote on the JB Weld method. It will sand like Bondo. As for the others?

 

I repaired a banjo wheel on the 38 Woodie that I restored many years ago. I did the same JB Weld process. The only additional thing that I did was to add a flexible additive to the paint. I only drove it for about 7 years (sold it and never should have) and no cracking came back in that time frame

 

I have successfully used JB Weld and a dremel to smooth things out after the epoxy hardens. Highly recommend finishing it with Krylon FUSION paint. The paint makes the finish glossy. It is a special paint that will hold up better than most. Good luck!

 

I've fixed many steering wheels in my time. The V-out and fill with epoxy is the best way to do it. I've always finished them with standard, high quality automotive paint. I would recommend catalyzed urethane primers and paint. Prep and paint the wheel just like you'd do the exterior of the car. You shouldn't need a clear coat, unless you're doing metallic colors. Clear on black will show scratches as white (from rough hands, rings on fingers, etc), so they'll really stand out.

My thoughts are if you got 18 years of service out of your last restoration, that's pretty good. I don't believe the flexing of the steering wheel is as much of an issue as the constant extreme heating and cooling (expanding and contracting) cycles it sees over a lifetime. Unless your truck stays in a climate controlled museum, I don't know anyway around that .

 

Alright I'll take some heat here - I liked the old style look of the
original wheel but mine was just held together by black electrician's tape.
Wrapped around & around the column & wheel - nice...
I gave up repairing it & bought a replacement wheel the was modeled on 1940's Ford steering wheels. (It was stupid expensive for what it is but I liked the vintage look).

Ben in Austin