I bought my clean 2002 2X4 5-speed 4.2 V6 cheap ($1800) because it had a spun rod bearing. The engine ran pretty well but had a "double knock" from the spun rod bearing.

I pulled the engine and after seeing that the bearing had spun and damaged the number one rod journal and connecting rod decided to rebuild the sucker even though it had only a little over 100,000 miles on it.

I disassembled the entire engine. I had the block hot tanked and new cam and balance shaft bearings installed and the cylinders honed by the machine shop.

I bought a crank kit that came with a freshly machined crank and new over-sized rod and main bearings. I replaced the number one rod since it had come into contact with the crank when the rod bearings spun.

The pistons looked good so I just installed new rings. I had the machine shop freshen the heads and install new valve stem seals. The cam and valve train were in spec so I just lubed them up and re-installed them.

I used copious amounts of Lucas Oil Engine Assembly Lube on all internal engine parts.

The engine had good oil pressure before the tear down and the oil pump clearances checked out so I didn't replace it. I installed all new gaskets, a new timing chain, water pump, thermostat, hoses, serpentine belt, plugs, clutch drive disk and pressure plate and a new clutch slave and release bearing.

This rang up to about $1200 and every spare moment of the last four months.

The big moment came.

I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine to let the oil pressure build without having to work against the compression.

I smelled plenty of gas coming from the spark plugs holes. I put the plugs back in and let 'er rip!

She fired right up. The oil pressure light went out and the oil pressure gauge kicked up past half and she was running on fast idle.

I climbed out to check things out. The engine was running smoothly but was making some minor clattering. I chalked this up to the valve train pumping up and settling down.

Then it suddenly stumbled and lurched to a halt.

My heart sank... Had it seized!...All that money...All that work...

I tried to restart it and it coughed once and then stalled. It cranked but not easily.

I pulled the plugs to see if it would turn freely without compression, fearing the worst.

To my relief it cranked as easily as it had before start up so at least it hadn't seized.

It was 1:00 am by this point so I'm calling it a night.

I have no experience with these ECU'd 1997- 2003 trucks as my other "F" series truck is a 1973 F-100 with a carburated 302 V8 with breaker points and no catalytic converter let alone OBD II engine controls.

I do have the Hayne's Manual and thirty years of do it yourself experience.

So I suppose it still comes down to air/fuel/spark but I have no idea where to begin or what to look for.

Anybody have any suggestions for where I should start in the morning?

 

Stay calm. It's the fear of the unknown at this point.
Try starting again.
If no luck, tell us how it acted.
It may have ran out of fuel the first time and the motor is stiff before breakin and cold.
The PCM tables are all at base until they learn the cold starting cycle and may not control the IAC very well the first few minutes of running.
First thing is to check for fuel pump running for about 2 seconds when you turn the key to run before cranking, then for fuel rail pressure to the injectors.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Bluegrass 7.


I suspect fuel issues so I appreciated the fuel pump advice. The guy that sold it to me said he put a new one in. It has year old gas in the tank

Also I bought the truck over a year ago and it sat for most of the winter. I would start it occasionally.

Since I basically removed and cleaned or replaced every part of the engine I expected some teething problems on start up but the sudden stop scaring the crap out of me!

I'm going to put the plugs back in and try and start it later this morning and post what happens.

Again thanks for the feedback.

 

You might want to add some fresh gas and change the fuel filter also.

 

there is a schrader valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire fill valve). Push the center button and see if it squirts a little gas out. Should have about 20-40 psi after shut donw. As mentioned, turn the key on - off a couple times and listen for the fuel pump to start and pump up to pressure.

 

Good advice. I'll definitely do that first thing.

 

When I started the rebuild I tried to hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the Schrader valve to relief the pressure but it seemed to be jammed. I'll try to press it in and report back.

 

Well I started her back up after putting in some fresh gas and charging the battery.

It starts but only with almost full throttle. The engine shakes and makes a lot of clattering noise and stalls unless I keep half pressure on the throttle.

I checked the the plug wires to make sure they were correct.


The oil pressure light is off and the oil pressure gauge shows 2/3's of the scale.

I'm pretty depressed.

Any suggestions?

 

Your expectations are getting the best of you.
You just have some issues to work out as might happen later when problems might arise.
The old gas it still in with the new.
Run it awhile for complete warm up and get the new fuel to mix with the old and add some more new fuel so it has a chance to settle down.
This is no different than putting a lawn mower away with gas in the tank.
Next summer it become a difficult start because the old gas has evaporated the 'lighter' portions out, leaving the heavier componants that don't burn so easy.
After you give the fuel a chance to settle down, and still find start and idle issues, then work on them.
You can't get rattled so quickly or nothing works out.
The problem is your getting upset with yourself because you expected it to all go perfect.
A shop that did what you have done would have come against the same issues and have to solve them before giving the truck back as finished.
Get the motor to first run smooth even with having to hold some throttle to do so.
Then work on why the IAC is not controlling idle speed.
A hint; don't hold the throttle wide open at starting unless you think the motor is flooded. Reason is, doing this shuts the fuel injection OFF. Only do wide open to clear the motor of excess fuel.
Another item is the ignition timing. This is adjustable as you set it in place. Be sure it's correct.
Good luck.

 

I talked to a couple of mechanics and the guy that did my machine shop work and all three seem to think it is a valve timing issue or possibly an ignition timing thing.

I didn't soak the lifter in oil so one guy thinks they may be collapsed and need to pump up, but why then did it start and run for a minute or so?

I know I aligned the timing marks so I'm not sure how it can be out of valve timing.

If it's ignition timing why is there so much clatter?

Any ideas?

 

Thanks for the encouragement Bluegrass.

You mention that the ignition timing is adjustable. It doesn't have a distributor so how do you time the ignition?

 

clatter can be valves, can be chain adjusters broken... or can be crappy fuel. If it ran o.k. for a minute when first started, then timing should not be a probablme unless the tensionier or something broke or slipped.

 

This being a V6, look at page 6-12 of your Haynes manuel for the timing information on the camshaft sync sensor setting.
Good luck.

 

Pull a valve cover and see if you are getting oil up top. The old gas may be the starting problem but the valve clatter sounds like something else. How much old gas was in the tank and how much new gas did you add? Seafoam in the tank may help the fuel issue if there wasn't too much old gas in the tank to begin with.

 

I added another five gallons of fresh fuel and a pint of fuel injector cleaner.

I replaced the nonfunctional fuel pressure release valve and tested the fuel pressure. It was 40lbs/in^2 which is normal.

A friend brought over his OBDII reader but it showed that it was incompatible with my vehicle.

The truck will start, and run briefly (3 to 5 seconds), if l let it sit for a while so I thought to check for flooding. I pulled the plugs and sure enough they are wet and show signs of soot as if the engine is running very rich.

When I dry and clean the plugs it will start again and then quickly stall. When I check the plugs they are again wet with fuel.

When I rebuilt the engine I replaced the intake manifold gaskets except for the o-rings that go around the upper plenum bolts because they didn't come with the set I purchased.

I'm beginning to suspect a MAJOR vacuum leak.

On a carburated engine you can place your hand over the air horn to see if the engine smooths out or if engine speed increases.

Anybody know a way to check for a HUGE vacuum leak on this engine?