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I am mating up my transmission to engine and I am wondering if there is an easy way to align the torque converter bolts to the flex plate? I am trying to get it aligned AND pulled in by myself. C6 to 351.
If you take the spark plugs out you should be able to spin the motor fairly easy with a socket on the front of the crank or find something you can use as a lever to pry against the ring gear on the flexplate. Tony
Just did this yesterday by myself.
Be sure the torque converter is COMPLETELY seated. There is the input shaft, stator support and oil pump drive to engage.
I set the torque converter so the four studs are at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position. Then I turned the engine so the holes in the flex-plate are in the same position. I then set the engine in place and got the bell housing bolts started by a couple of threads.
Got under the truck to make sure everything lined up. It didn't, alignment was off by a hair. I used a long screwdriver to turn the flwheel enough to get everything lined up. Then tightened the bellhousing bolts to bring everything together.
Just did this yesterday by myself.
Be sure the torque converter is COMPLETELY seated. There is the input shaft, stator support and oil pump drive to engage.
I set the torque converter so the four studs are at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position. Then I turned the engine so the holes in the flex-plate are in the same position. I then set the engine in place and got the bell housing bolts started by a couple of threads.
Got under the truck to make sure everything lined up. It didn't, alignment was off by a hair. I used a long screwdriver to turn the flwheel enough to get everything lined up. Then tightened the bellhousing bolts to bring everything thogether.
OK, this is where I'm currently at. I have one bell housing bolt started and I will put another in today. I think I just need to suck the bell closer so that I can get the bolts on the torque converter closer to tell where they are at.
When the torque converter is installed correctly everything will just fall together. The torque converter should be free floating, in and out, before you tighten the four nuts holding the converter to the flex-plate.
If you are having to use bolts to "pull it together' then your torque converter isn't seated correctly and you are about to DAMAGE the pump inside ($$$$) your transmission.
Please be careful and make sure the torque converter is seated in the pump. Rotate it till it aligns and you feel it drop in place.
It seems like the torque converter is in to far still lol How close should the bell be before the torque converter bolts start to touch the flex plate?
Once it's that close it should just wiggle into place.
Been a while since i stuffed one but it's about the same. When the bell housing is against the engine block the torque converter sud shoulder will be thru the plate and should have a small clearance to the flex-plate. I don't know the measurement but at least 1/16th; maybe even a 1/4 in.
So when the studs contact the plate the bell housing should be less than the length of the studs. I think that's right?
Just don't force it and you'll be ok
I'm not explaining this very well... Could someone help. Thanks!
Once it's that close it should just wiggle into place.
Been a while since i stuffed one but it's about the same. When the bell housing is against the engine block the torque converter sud shoulder will be thru the plate and should have a small clearance to the flex-plate. I don't know the measurement but at least 1/16th; maybe even a 1/4 in.
So when the studs contact the plate the bell housing should be less than the length of the studs. I think that's right?
Just don't force it and you'll be ok
I'm not explaining this very well... Could someone help. Thanks!
Correct, with the bellhousing bolted on the TC should be able to pull forward about 1/4" or so.
Josh
__________________
2006 F250 XLT 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel 4X4: Muffler/Cat/Stealth EGR delete Looney Tune BFG Rugged Terrain tires Blue Spring Mod Upgraded STC Rotella ELC DASHBOSS iPhone monitor
Once it's that close it should just wiggle into place.
Been a while since i stuffed one but it's about the same. When the bell housing is against the engine block the torque converter sud shoulder will be thru the plate and should have a small clearance to the flex-plate. I don't know the measurement but at least 1/16th; maybe even a 1/4 in.
So when the studs contact the plate the bell housing should be less than the length of the studs. I think that's right?
Just don't force it and you'll be ok
I'm not explaining this very well... Could someone help. Thanks!
You're doing fine. If you have to force it, somethings wrong. Never pull it in with bolts. Yes, four studs or bolts with heads cut off are nice to keep things aligned. Only possible thing I can think of that they are too far apart, is having the flexplate on backwards. Usually torque converter is too far out due to not being seated all the way. Good luck.
__________________
66 Bronco Half Cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head and intake, Isky 256/256 cam, Keith Black pistons, Clifford header, Holley 390cfm 4v, 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
Once it's that close it should just wiggle into place.
Been a while since i stuffed one but it's about the same. When the bell housing is against the engine block the torque converter sud shoulder will be thru the plate and should have a small clearance to the flex-plate. I don't know the measurement but at least 1/16th; maybe even a 1/4 in.
So when the studs contact the plate the bell housing should be less than the length of the studs. I think that's right?
Just don't force it and you'll be ok
I'm not explaining this very well... Could someone help. Thanks!
You're doing fine. If you have to force it, somethings wrong. Never pull it in with bolts. Yes, four studs or bolts with heads cut off are nice to keep things aligned. Only possible thing I can think of that they are too far apart, is having the flexplate on backwards or wrong flexplate. Usually torque converter is too far out due to not being seated all the way. Good luck.
__________________
66 Bronco Half Cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head and intake, Isky 256/256 cam, Keith Black pistons, Clifford header, Holley 390cfm 4v, 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
You're doing fine. If you have to force it, somethings wrong. Never pull it in with bolts. Yes, four studs or bolts with heads cut off are nice to keep things aligned. Only possible thing I can think of that they are too far apart, is having the flexplate on backwards or wrong flexplate. Usually torque converter is too far out due to not being seated all the way. Good luck.
Flexplates and flywheels are indexed and for the most part it is impossible to mount them "backwards"
Josh
__________________
2006 F250 XLT 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel 4X4: Muffler/Cat/Stealth EGR delete Looney Tune BFG Rugged Terrain tires Blue Spring Mod Upgraded STC Rotella ELC DASHBOSS iPhone monitor
I am pretty sure I have the flex plate on correctly. I think I just need to pull it a little closer and turn the engine a wee bit more. Just wanting to make sure is all. I will be down in the shop shortly and will see how she goes.
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