I got some new diamond plated bed rails on the way. I think all they are sending me is that damn tape to put them on with. I never have any luck with the tape, any suggestions on putting them on so they stay on? Thanks

 

glenn i alwasy use some stanliss or aluminm pop riveits on the top 3 -r 4 down the top and a few in side the bed in the side chanale they send 2 self tappers also

 

Mine were on it when I got it in 2000, they are fastened on the inside of the bed rail

 

Even if you rivet them in place, I would use the adhesive tape to keep things from rattling. The key with that stuff is to get the surfaces clean. I usually wash everything down real good, then finish by wiping the surfaces with rubbing alcohol. That takes all the oil and residue off the surfaces and lets the tape get a good hold. But yeah I'm with you, too in that I would want something else holding those things on there. Can't imagine what would happen loosing one of those in traffic on the highway at 70 MPH...

 

I want to weld some angle iron on for bed rails, then weld some small D rings to the iron for tie downs. Then the angle will make a nice base for my headache rack, if I ever get around to building one

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't want to just use the tape.

 

Like Nate said... Make sure to clean the surface really good on the truck and the bottom of the rail as well...

 

If the surface is clean & free of wax , go ahead & use the tape . When done use a heat gun on the rail protector in the areas where the tape is . Keep testing the temp surrounding the part by touching the painted areas , if its too hot to touch ,its too hot for the paint ..

After it cools down , see up you can pull up on the inside edge of it . My bet is it wont move at all . If you feel the need to use a fastener, use a couple 1/8 pop rivets on the inside edge of the bed rails ,one at the front & one in the rear .

The tape will also help protect the paint as well...

BTW , when you install them , Remove the tape film cover an inch or so on each run of the tape . Put the part in place on the truck with the tape protect film sticking out so you can get ahold of it . Once you have the part where you want it , pull the rest of the tape covering off while holding the part in place . Do the inside edge first , & the outside last ...

 

Well Rick, I never heard of using a heat gun. Sounds like I'll have to use a air chisel to get them off, LOL. Thanks

 

I had a set of stainless rail covers on my 94 with just the tape. I was going to remove them before I sold the truck. After a couple of tries I could see they where not coming off easy so they went with the truck.

 

Hey glenn, If you really want them to be there for good try this. Marine Sealant...Ive fixed cracks in engine blocks before lol..Stuffs insane!

 

Ha-Ha, so instead of using the engine block for a boat anchor you can fix it with that stuff, WOW!! I'll have to get some.

 

My first thought is 'don't do it'! Mine had these installed from the previous owner, and I don't like the look. My not liking the look is not why I am responding, it's the fact that I can't remove them without having to have the bed paint touched up. Keep reading...

Agreed completely! Mine were simply attached with three sheet metal screws with nothing underneath. I have no idea how the previous owner traveled 140,000 miles without stake holes, but the rail covers had no holes in them! I recently removed the rail covers and used a circular hole saw to regain tie-down use of the stake holes. With no padding or adhesive tape the aluminum has rubbed the paint off at numerous places. Should I choose to remove them my options are to get the bed repainted or apply some sort of rhino-liner.

 

I ended up using the tape with some heat and two carriage bolts, one on each end.

 

That looks really good Glenn. Mine aren't that nice after 12+ years. I don't have stake pockets either, although that doesn't matter to me.