2001 F250 w v-10..been a great truck. Couple of weeks ago heater core went bad. Talked to several people and all said it was huge job to replace it. So figured Id just tough it out this winter and bypass it. Really busy so I parked it for a couple weeks and today it would crank but not even try to start. After reading some other threads it sounds like the fuel pump could be a problem. Just seems weird that it would go bad just sittng there. Any other ideas? WHat do you use to check the fuel pressure at the schreader valve? Man I gotta get that thing back onthe road, Help!

 

The fuel pump shut off switch is on the passenger side behind the panel below the glove box. If the heater core ble bad it may have shorted out the switch and won't allow the fuel pump to get power.

 

There's no mechanism for that to happen.

A fuel pressure gauge. Connect the gauge to the Shraeder valve and cycle the ignition from OFF to run for several seconds. You should hear the pump run for 1-2 seconds (remove fuel cap and put your ear up to it if you have to). A "good" fuel pump will pressurize the system to at least 40 psi before attempting to start the engine.

If the pump does not cycle, check the inertia switch, the FP fuse, and the FP relay. Hitting the side of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet might dislodge a pump that is "sticky".

Other possible causes for a "Cranks but does not fire" are numerous. A faulty fuel delivery system is just one.

 

projectsho89, your suggestion was on spot. Have a 2004 F350 with V10 with 35000 miles. Have had a problem in the past with truck stalling while idling. 2 different reputable shops looked at it, the second had it for a week and it ran fine. A couple months later started doing it again, Went to Lowes and truck would crank, start, stutter, and die' Tried changing fuel pump fuse and swapping relays with same results. Got under the truck and banged the fuel tank and truck started and purred like a kitten. Thanks again, Bill C

 

Thanks for the feedback, Bill.

Recommend you replace the pump before it fails completely. When that happens, banging on the fuel tank will only make you feel better as a stress reliever but the truck still won't start and run.

 

This keeps happening on my 2002 V10 with 38,000 miles. Last time, drove up to the mulch yard and when I came out of the shack after paying, it would not start. Flat-bed home, new battery (not needed), new battery ground cable, and still would not start. Took apart the entire fuse block trying to find the non-existent / unidentifiable fuel pump relay. Found nothing and put it all back together and it worked. There were multiple surface-mount relays that could have been "the one" but the effort required was beyond realistic. Now months later, it spontaneously died again. Cranks great. Just no effort to fire. Time to measure fuel pressure after buying a gauge, I guess.

 

In my post from 8 years ago, I said referring to the initial key-on sequence. Do that FIRST. If you do not hear the pump run, then there will be no fuel pressure to measure.

Do the simple stuff FIRST.

 

You're absolutely right. Do easy or free stuff first. I'm not confident I'm hearing or not hearing the fuel pump pressurize the fuel system. I'm pretty sure it isn't. Last time this April (and this time I suspect), there was no voltage at the input to the inertial switch. My real problem is not knowing where the electrical problem is and how to trace the circuit to find where my open is. Previously, I took the entire fuse panel out and disassembled the whole thing, found nothing wrong, and put it all back together and it worked. The truck is immaculate. There was absolutely no corrosion or sign of heat or anything suspect. But I do have an aftermarket remote start that was professionally installed. I don't know really anything about how it was spliced into the truck. I only know that it tries to start the truck as if I turn the key, and in either case, there is no fuel because no voltage gets to the fuel pump.
The PM2C7T-14A067-AN fuse panel (central junction box) has five of those surface-mount Omron F8VF-BA 0881A22B relays that could be an issue. The multi-layer fuse panel has a huge row of soldered connections that join the circuit boards that really make it unserviceable. It also has seven of the replaceable P6STD Ford relays F0AB-14B192-AA. No amount of swapping them around changes anything, but I figured out in April once the truck was running again that removing P6STD relay #302 will interrupt voltage to the inertia switch and hence the pump.

 

I've got the exact same truck. PM me if I can help compare a working fuel system vs yours.

 

Pertinent previous threads:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ntly-dies.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...use-panel.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ay-repair.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...resistors.html

 

I need help my 01 e350 van won't start. I've change the body grounds the fuel pump and all the coil packs and theres 10 of them basterds and still wont start oh and the emergancy cut off switch wasnt triggered