I'm in the process of building a 351W for my '82 F150 Explorer and thought I'd share how things go via this thread. However, this isn't a monologue, so please chime in with questions, comments, or suggestions.

I had all of the machine work done some time ago and have been porting the heads, which was documented here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-document.html

As stated in there the goal of this build has been to gain gas mileage as I expected to have the pickup for some time. However, it now appears that my father's '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4 is available earlier than I expected, so I'm planning to sell the Explorer. Given that, I'm going to build the engine basically stock with the exception of installing a cam with good torque characteristics.

Yesterday I measured all the bearings and journals and found them within factory spec's. Then I prepared the block by running a tap through all the tapped holes to ensure no crud was hiding in there and blew them out with compressed air. A small hone was used to take the flash rust out of the lifter bores. After that I ran a nylon brush through all of the oil passages, along with liberal amounts of brake cleaner, to make sure they were clean and then blew them out with compressed air. Finally, I washed the whole thing down with brake cleaner and blew it dry with air.

Today I installed the soft plugs, with Permatex as sealer, and the plugs for the oil passages - with PTFE thread sealer on them. Then I installed the cam, but found it a little bit stiff to turn in spite of the bearing clearances being right in the middle of the spec's. Jim (ArdWrknTrk) suggested putting Dykem on the bearings, installing the cam, and then turning it (gently) to find the high spots. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

Good idea. One of those cam bearings may not be square in the bore. Or dented during bearing install, or .....

 

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X2 on that subscription.

 

I had a lot of stuff hiding in the water passages of mine. It took a while to get all the crud out. This was even after it was hot tanked at the machine shop. I suggest running a tap through all of the threaded bolt holes through out the entire build. I kept running into problems with threads.

Are you going to put all the emission stuff back on like it was when it was new?

 

when I rebuilt my 460 I tried using a cam out of a donor motor (it was out of a generator). I used a caliper on everything to make sure clearances were good. I began installing the cam and it became stuck in the 3rd bore. In trying to get the cam out I hit it on the block and broke a lobe right off. The lesson I took away from it is quadruple check to make sure your cam bearings are square in the hole. BTW, I'm happier with the CompCams cam shaft anyway...

 

My water passages look good, but I did run some brake cleaner through them as well. I buy the stuff by the case and get a good deal on it.

As for the emissions "stuff", not only NO but heck no. Most of it was off when I got the truck and I had to take the rest off, like DS-III, to get it to run right.

 

Emissions should never have been on these to begin with. I guess if you live in Cali you HAVE to have them. I live in a farm town where 90% of the trucks around here would get laughed out of the inspection station before they even pulled in.

 

The 82's I have came with DS-III and EEC-IV awa smog pump, catalyst, EGR, etc. Few of the in OK are that way any more.

 

Not to derail you Gary, but , do you have a pic of behind the Altenator? I am getting ready to finish up the 3G upgrade and need to install it. I am trying to figure out which hole in the head the long bolt goes into.

 

Bruno - Not on me and I'm at Hobby Lobby on 71st St. Not even sure I have at home. But, do have the Master Parts Catalog which will show it, although I won't be able to get to that until later tonite - while watching "the game".

 

Ok , no worries. That hobby lobby is packed full of good looking ladies!
I never have a problem going there with the wifey.

 

Bruno - Here's the best shot I have of the alternator:


I think you can tell where the bolts go, but if not let me know and I'll check the parts catalog for an illustration.

 

Yeah it looks like the top bolt for the alt bracket is in that damn thermactor port and it has to be bushed down from 5/8"-11 to 7/16"-14. I only ordered one reducer bushing from Summit for the AC bracket. Looks like I am going to have see if Ford can get me one quicker or cheaper. Maybe see if the tater heads at Oreilly's can even find what I am talking about. If I have to order it from summit it will take another week to get here and not to mention its Like $17.00 with shipping.

Thanks for the picture though Gary it pin pointed the area I was looking for and certainly answered the questions.

Be sure and pay attention to the heads whenever you put them back on the motor. One end should be bushed down for the accessory brackets(7/16"-14 tpi) and the other should be opened up for the 5/8"-11 which is what the thermactor port is. The good news is I bought four plug bolts(5/8"-11x 3/4" long stainless steel). I got a smokin deal on them from the bolt supplier I use. I will send you the 2 I dont need for your heads. Shoot me a PM with your address and I will put them in an envelope with a couple of stamps to get them to you if you need them. I am pretty sure you will if you are not hooking that stuff back up.

 

Also , the area of the head where the thermactor port is located is very close to the edge of the head. So whenever you do put a plug in it dont torque the daylights out of it b/c it could very easily break the head in that area. Which will open up a can worms that you dont need to deal with.

Let me know if you need any connecting rods . I also have a factory dual plane intake if you keep a hot rod one instead of putting it on a truck thats being sold.

Thanks Gary.