Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Glow Plug Wiring

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Old 11-16-2011, 01:57 PM
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Glow Plug Wiring

I recently spent stupid money on this truck (89 F-350 4X4 5spd. 7.3 IDI), I had the cylinder heads machined, new injectors (Delphi), new injection pump (Uhaul), new glow plugs (beru), new controller (bosch I think), new glow plug wiring harness, new batteries, new starter, new single mass flywheel, new motor mounts, and new gaskets in the oil cooler.... Heck I think I'm having more problems now than before anyone messed with it!

The glow plugs don't seem to work at all, it leaks more oil and fuel now than ever, and the speedometer bounces around all over the place.

Focusing on one problem at a time, specifically the glow plug issue, I do remember the garage that did the work calling me during the time they had it and asked how to correct the problem of the melted plug where the new glow plug wiring harness "plugs-in" (near the passenger side fender), I suggested they go to a salvage yard and cut-off a pigtail and solder it to my existing wiring harness. Which is what they did. (I would have replace this harness also but could not find it anywhere.) Anyway, I remember them telling me they simply matched up the colors and soldered the wires together. Is it possible they got a plug from a different year truck that has different color codes on the wires? With the key turned on, what should the voltage be at the plug that attaches to the glow plug? Does a Bosch controller "CLICK" sound different than a IH controller? I remember my previous IH controller sounding different and I don't know if that was due to the different brand or the fact they may have it wired wrong???
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:06 PM
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Everything you ever wanted to know about the GP system is here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...le-system.html
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the link however this is exavtly why I asked the question, I already did a search and came up with tons of information that I really don't want to wade thru. I know there are guys on here that have the ability to read my exact problem and know exactly how to fix it or at least tell me what to check!
When I turn the key,
-the WTS light comes on, (maybe 10 secs),
-the WTS light is out for approximately 5 secs before the cycling of the soleniod starts.
-when I turn the key further to engage the starter, it cranks and cranks and finally starts with a huge cloud of white smoke.
-for another short period I can hear the solenoid clicking and visibly see the flickering of the volt gauge in unison with the clicking.
-then the cycling stops.

Warmer weather it fired up like a gasoline engine!
Something I noticed the garage did that I was curious about was they used electrical grease on all of their connections and each plug the was removed and replaced, example all of the connections in that new "glow plug wiring harness". Most specifically I was curious if this could have any negative effects where the wire plugs into the glow plug? At first I thought this was a good idea now I'm wondering if this grease may be causing the problem???
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:07 PM
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do you try to start it right after the WTS light goes out?

those wts light times are good. the only thing that i see is wrong is that there is 5 sec seperating the wts light going out and the cycling to begin. they should start to cycle as soon as the light goes out.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:14 PM
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Are you getting any white smoke while cranking, before it starts? You should be if you are getting fuel from the injectors. You mentioned it leaks more oil AND FUEL than it used to, you may have an air intrusion problem. It sounds like your glow plugs are working. I believe you will have battery voltage at the glow plugs with the key on, but only when the WTS light is on.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:15 PM
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Yep, as soon as it goes out I hit the key. Forgot to mention I also have an electric fuel pump that is running the entire time the glow plugs are "suppose" to be heating up. So fuel not being present shouldn't be a problem and I think the huge white smoke plume is proof? Also forgot to mention I had to put a new fuel heater in it right after all this work was done (it leaked around the heater), new heater stopped the leak. I don't drive this truck a lot, mostly hunting season and guess what time of year it is! I don't want to destroy another starter and I won't spray either in it since spending all that money. I'd like to fix it correctly, just need to know what to do.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:26 PM
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need to fix that fuel leak first. fuel leaking out=air getting in=pain in the a$$ to start.
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:30 PM
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I have visually noticed a fuel (fuel on the valley pan) as well as the odor of fuel and assumed it was coming from the UHAUL injection pump? Could this be the problem? Wouldn't the electric pump purge all of the air before I turn the key to crank the engine?
 
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:41 PM
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the only way to tell if the glow plugs are working is to put either a voltmeter or a test light on a glow plug wire while the WTS light is on and see if there is power going to them
 
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