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F150 No Crank No Start. Need Help

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Old 11-14-2011, 07:49 PM
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F150 No Crank No Start. Need Help

Hi all, ive searched and cant find any answers so ill ask in my own. I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.

1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. ONly thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. Im really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it. Any help at all is appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:08 PM
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Leave out all the other items you list and focus on the circuit from the igniton switch to the start relay.
From the ignition sw 'hot at all times' thru a fuse to possibly an interuppt relay/ contacts to [the transmission selector switch] and back to the start relay.
The circuit is open at some point.
Good luck.
 
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:01 PM
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OK thanks alot ill start checking wires tomorow. This should be fun. If anyone else has any thoughts please feel free to share! Thanks!
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:00 AM
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Check fuse f21 and the rest of the starter circuit including the DTR sensor.

There are no fusible links.

The starter interrupt relay, if equipped, is waaaaay up under the dash on the passenger side.
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 07:36 AM
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I looked up my 97 manual. For "without remote anti-theft personality module, auto transmission"

HOT AT ALL TIMES > IGNITION SWITCH > 15A FUSE > DIGITAL TRANSMISSION RANGE SENSOR > STARTER MOTOR RELAY* > STARTER.

Starter Motor Relay sits at the corner of firewall and passenger side fender. If there is another relay in the passenger compartment, I don't see it. Could the clicking you noticed be from this? If so, you have no discontinuity up to this point and what's bad is 1) the relay or 2) 2 load side connections (to +12V and to starter motor) of the relay or 3) connection at the starter motor
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:08 PM
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Theres got to be an open from the DTR sensor to the starter relay. As i said we tested for voltage at the harness for the DTR sensor and it has voltage. And there cant be a break from the relay to the starter because i can start it by crossing the relay. Unlesss the DTR itself is bad and isnt sending the power where it needs to go. IDk why i didnt think of that.
 
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:36 PM
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See if you can have someone start the car and you measure voltage at the starter relay on the firewall/passenger fender. If you get 12V there, DTR sensor is not the faulty part. Also, if the load side contact is not good, it can give 12V to the starter but fail to deliver the current.
 
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:59 PM
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I have the same thing with my 2000 f150 5.4, i will jump in and turn the key and nothing happens just a click. So i found out it is something in my starter that won't allow it to start so i install a push button bypass system that works everytime also you could check your chip in your key. It could of gone bad.
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000f1505.4
I have the same thing with my 2000 f150 5.4, i will jump in and turn the key and nothing happens just a click. So i found out it is something in my starter that won't allow it to start so i install a push button bypass system that works everytime also you could check your chip in your key. It could of gone bad.
No, it couldn't be a "chipped key" since his truck doesn't have one.

It's probably a good idea to get an understanding of how stuff works before attempting to help.
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:33 AM
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It has to be the Trans Range Sensor. Its where the voltage stops in the circuit. I traced power and it goes into the range sensor but there so power to the little wire on the relay, and from my manual it shows that wire comes from the trans sensor.
 
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:00 AM
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I think your on the right track if you have voltage from the stater interupt relay to the DTR and you cant get voltage out of it in park or nuetral to the starter motor relay I would change the DTR
 
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:08 PM
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Well now the truck will start with the key after the trs replacement so that was the culprit. Buuuttt now the truck won't shift out when in drive. If we put it in 2 it will shift through first into second and no further but if in drive it won't shift out of first. Help! This is frustrating!
 
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:37 PM
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Look at the mounting holes on the old part.
Are they made to move the part for adjustment? It may be adjustment.
The setting has to be correct because it's a digital signal back to the computer to tell it what the selector position is and what transmission valves to operate and to allow starting in Neutral and Park position only and block all others positions from allowing starting..
This is why it's called Digital Range Selector.
 
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:18 AM
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Check that the shift cable is in the correct position on the lever of the transmission.
The cable may be out of place limiting the movement to the "D" position.
Disconnect the cable and place the shifter in "P".
Move the lever on the trans to the park position.
Now reconnect the cable to the lever.
Let us know what happens.
 
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:15 PM
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Thumbs up Found problem was the DTR Sensor

After reading various posts on the subject I found that the DTR sensor was the problem. I installed a new neutral safety switch and it cured my problem. My truck wouldn't start in neutral or in park intermittently. This was a perplexing situation seeing that it left me stranded a couple times. It was a simple fix and now my truck starts every time. The part cost me about $60 at advance auto parts, and about an hour of my time. Was a lot better than hauling it to a shop for repair. I set the shifter in neutral and installed the switch. everything aligned perfect. secured the two retaining bolts and then the linkage nut. Works like a charm.
 
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